GUNUNG · Italia

Monte Disgrazia

Information

Elevation: 3.678 m
Country: Italia (IT)
Location / Range: Alpen Retik bagian barat (Bregaglia/Masino), Lombardia (provinsi Sondrio), Italia — di kepala Val Masino dan Valmalenco
Mountain type: Puncak alpine non-vulkanik bersalju & bergletser (batuan metamorf/serpentinit) — puncak utama Val Masino–Valmalenco di Alpen Retik/Bregaglia
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 46.2692, 9.7492
Difficulty: Alpine (PD+ pada jalur normal, hingga AD/D pada punggungan lain) — bukan pendakian jalan kaki biasa; menuntut keterampilan gletser, tali, crampon, ice axe, dan pengalaman punggungan campuran salju-batu bereksposur
Best Season: Musim panas alpine (akhir Juni–September) saat gletser & punggungan dalam kondisi terbaik; sebagian tim mendaki pada awal musim panas saat salju masih memadatkan medan
Permits & Rules: Tidak perlu izin khusus; pendakian bebas namun menuntut kemandirian alpine. Basis umum adalah Rifugio Ponti (2.559 m); menginap di rifugio dianjurkan untuk start dini
Hazards: Rekahan gletser (crevasse) di Preda Rossa/Ventina, batu lepas, punggungan bereksposur tinggi, perubahan cuaca cepat, badai petir sore, dan risiko jatuh di medan salju-es. Perlengkapan & teknik glasial serta partner tali wajib

Description

Monte Disgrazia (3,678 m) is the most prominent alpine peak of the Masino–Bregaglia group, standing on the divide between Val Masino and Valmalenco in northern Lombardy, Italy. Unlike its granite, rock-climbing neighbours, the Disgrazia is a true snow-and-glacier mountain — a pyramid of sharp ridges and icy flanks that gives it a serious aura among alpinists. Its summit was first reached in 1862 by Leslie Stephen with guide Melchior Anderegg and E. S. Kennedy, a landmark of alpinism's 'Golden Age'. The normal route follows the northwest ridge (Cresta di Pioda / Cresta di Corda) from the Rifugio Ponti (2,559 m), crossing the Preda Rossa moraine and glacier before climbing the exposed mixed snow-and-rock ridge to the top. Other ridges such as the Corda Molla (east–northeast) offer wilder, seldom-travelled mixed routes. Because the terrain demands glacier skills and alpine experience, the Disgrazia is no casual walk-up but a coveted objective for mountaineers seeking a classic snow summit with sweeping views to the Bernina and the Bregaglia Alps.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Cresta E-NE — Corda Molla

AD/D — panjat batu hingga III dengan bagian campuran dan salju hingga ~50°

Seharian penuh (pendekatan panjang; sering dari biwak/rifugio)

One of the finest ridges on Monte Disgrazia: a mixed route following the east–northeast ridge in a wild, seldom-visited alpine setting. It alternates sharp snow sections with reddish rock pitches; the climbing rarely exceeds grade III but is often very exposed, requiring rope, crampons, ice screws and cams. More demanding than the normal route and reserved for experienced alpine teams.

Source

Via Normale — Cresta O/NO (Cresta di Pioda)

PD+ (panjatan batu hingga III, salju hingga ~45°) — alpine, butuh keterampilan gletser

±11–12 jam pulang-pergi dari Rifugio Ponti (umumnya bermalam di rifugio)

The easiest and standard route on Monte Disgrazia, first climbed by British alpinists in 1862. From the Rifugio Ponti (2,559 m) it crosses the Preda Rossa moraine and glacier to the Sella di Pioda, then follows the exposed northwest (Pioda) ridge on a mix of snow and easy rock climbing to the 3,678 m summit. Not technically hard but exposed, demanding stamina, alpine experience, glacier travel skills and care near the top.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Experiences on Monte Disgrazia are almost always true alpinism rather than hiking. Accounts center on the normal northwest-ridge route (Cresta di Pioda) from the Rifugio Ponti (2,559 m), which requires crossing the Preda Rossa moraine and glacier and then following an exposed mixed snow-and-rock ridge to the 3,678 m summit. Vlogs and route reports highlight the punishing boulder fields, the 'Cavallo di Bronzo' feature and the thin ridge amid granite; some climbers rate the technical difficulty as lighter than expected while the exposure is very real. Some sources explore harder, wilder lines such as the Corda Molla on the east–northeast side — a seldom-visited mixed snow-and-ice route. The common thread: glacier skills, an early start or hut overnight, settled weather and respect for the exposure on the summit ridge.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.