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GUNUNG · Greenland

Mont Forel

Source
Mont Forel

Photo: source

Information

Elevation
3.383 m
Country
Greenland (GL)
Location / Range
Schweizerland
Mountain type
Mountain
Volcanic?
No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates
66.9350, -36.7875
Difficulty
Expedition (very difficult)
Best Season
April–May
Permits & Rules
Sebagian besar kawasan Schweizerland hingga ~150 km dari Tasiilaq berada di zona bebas-izin, tetapi ekspedisi tetap perlu koordinasi logistik lewat Kulusuk/Tasiilaq. Akses umumnya lewat bandara Kulusuk lalu perahu dari Ammassalik/Tasiilaq, dilanjutkan perjalanan ski menarik pulk melintasi gletser.
Hazards
Perjalanan gletser panjang dengan bahaya crevasse (mis. Midgården/Midgaård), cuaca Arktik dan whiteout, keterpencilan total, serta ketergantungan pada jendela cuaca dan jangkauan pesawat/perahu untuk masuk-keluar kawasan.

Description

Mont Forel (3,383 m) is the second-highest peak in Greenland and the Arctic after Gunnbjørn Fjeld, and the highest mountain outside the Watkins Range. It rises in the Schweizerland Alps of East Greenland, just north of the Arctic Circle, near Sermilik and Ammassalik Island, and is crowned by an ice dome. It was named in 1912 by the Swiss geophysicist and Arctic explorer Alfred de Quervain in honour of the Swiss scientist François-Alphonse Forel, and first climbed in 1938 by the Akademischer Alpen-Club of Zürich expedition led by André Roch, which also made numerous other first ascents in the region. Because it lies relatively close to Kulusuk airport and the town of Tasiilaq, Schweizerland is one of Greenland's most popular alpine climbing and ski-mountaineering areas — though Mont Forel itself remains a long, remote and logistically demanding climb.

Routes

Pendekatan/percobaan sisi utara

Alpine terpencil — punggungan barat daya & sisi timur laut; sangat rawan angin
Multi-hari

A less-travelled north-side approach attempted by Derek Fordham's 1984 party after an aircraft landing on the north side; efforts on the SW ridge and NE flank stopped some 200–300 m below the summit in high winds.

Source

Rute Selatan (jalur pertama Roch 1938)

Alpine/gletser terpencil — kubah es puncak; butuh crampon, tali, dan kemampuan glacier travel
Ekspedisi multi-hari (pendekatan ski ~10 hari sampai kaki gunung)

The main line ascends Mont Forel's south face — the route pioneered by André Roch's party in 1938 and repeated by the 1986 British team — after a long ski approach from the coast via Conniats Pass, the crevasses of Midgaårdgletscher, the Glacier de France and Paris Gletscher, finishing on an ice-dome summit.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Mont Forel (3,383 m) in Schweizerland, East Greenland, is a classic long ski expedition objective reached by multi-day ski travel from Tasiilaq/Kulusuk; first climbed in 1938 by André Roch's Swiss party, its south (Roch) route remains the main line, with weather and wind on the icecap the decisive factors.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.

  1. 1 Wikipedia Mont Forel en.wikipedia.org · EN
  2. 2 Official Site Climbing and mountaineering visitgreenland.com · EN
  3. 3 Encyclopedia North America, Greenland, Mount Forel publications.americanalpineclub.org · EN
  4. 4 Encyclopedia Mount Forel Greenland Expedition mef.org.uk · EN