GUNUNG · Pakistan

Haramosh Peak

Haramosh Peak (ہراموش)

Haramosh Peak dilihat dari arah Nanga Parbat — foto puncak dari kejauhan. Photo: source

Information

Elevation: 7.409 m
Country: Pakistan (PK)
Location / Range: Rangkaian Rakaposhi-Haramosh (Karakoram), di atas Lembah Haramosh — Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan
Mountain type: Puncak es-batuan metamorf/granit Karakoram (non-vulkanik) di rangkaian Rakaposhi-Haramosh
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 35.8414, 74.8978
Difficulty: Sangat sulit & serius (alpinisme teknis) — jarang didaki; es curam, punggung bercornice panjang, dan sejarah kecelakaan mematikan
Best Season: Pertengahan Juni–Agustus (musim panas Karakoram)
Permits & Rules: Wajib izin & royalti puncak dari pemerintah Pakistan (peak >7.000 m) plus operator berlisensi dan porter; pendekatan lewat desa Haramosh/Sassi menuju Lembah Kutwal
Hazards: Longsoran salju dan runtuhan es; punggung bercornice; celah gletser; penyakit ketinggian ekstrem; cuaca badai mendadak dan keterpencilan — gunung ini terkenal lewat tragedi ekspedisi 1957 yang menewaskan dua pendaki

Description

Haramosh Peak (7,409 m) is a prominent summit in the Rakaposhi-Haramosh range of the Karakoram, rising above the Haramosh valley in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. It is best remembered for the 1957 tragedy: an Oxford University student expedition turned into a doomed rescue when an avalanche trapped the team, killing Bernard Jillot and Rae Culbert and leaving John Emery severely frostbitten — a story immortalised in Ralph Barker's classic book "The Last Blue Mountain". The summit was first reached a year later, in 1958, by an Austrian expedition via the Haramosh La and the East Ridge. Haramosh has been climbed only rarely since, because of its long, dangerous technical routes. For trekkers, the area can now be explored via the trek into the Haramosh valley and Kutwal Lake at the mountain's foot, without attempting the summit itself. As a non-volcanic mountain, Haramosh is built of Karakoram rock uplifted by plate collision.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Ekspedisi Haramosh Peak — pendekatan Kutwal / Gletser Mani ke Base Camp

Ekspedisi ketinggian menantang (7.409 m)

Sekitar 40 hari pulang-pergi (Skardu masuk & keluar)

A modern guided expedition itinerary flies to Skardu and treks via Haramosh village, Iskere and the Mani Glacier past Kutwal Lake to Haramosh Peak Base Camp in the upper Haramosh valley, from which the technical climb on the 7,409 m peak is staged before returning via Dassu to Skardu.

Source

Punggung Timur via Haramosh La & Mani Peaks (jalur pendakian pertama 1958)

Alpinisme teknis serius — es curam berkebutuhan tali tetap di dinding puncak Mani Peak II (~700 kaki), plus punggung penghubung panjang yang bercornice

Ekspedisi beberapa minggu (tim Austria menghabiskan ~2 bulan di gunung)

The 1958 first-ascent line approaches up the Haramosh valley to Base Camp, climbs to Camp I on the Haramosh La (~4,800 m), then works through an icefall to higher camps over the Mani Peaks before traversing a long corniced ridge onto Haramosh's East Ridge to the summit. It is the same general terrain as the ill-fated 1957 reconnaissance and remains rarely attempted.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Haramosh Peak (7,409 m) is rarely climbed, so real experiences fall into two kinds: historic accounts of the 1957 tragedy and the 1958 first ascent, and modern treks into the Haramosh valley and Kutwal Lake at the mountain's foot. The sources below are verified live and document real-world experiences on the mountain and in its region.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.