GUNUNG · Nepal

Chamlang

चामलाङ (Chamlang)

Information

Elevation: 7.319 m
Country: Nepal (NP)
Location / Range: Mahalangur Himal (Bagian Barun), Himalaya
Mountain type: Puncak orogenik Himalaya (non-vulkanik)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 27.7758, 86.9800
Difficulty: Sangat teknis (ABO/ED di jalur dinding) — es & mixed climbing, punggungan panjang, kawasan terpencil
Best Season: Musim semi (April–Mei) & musim gugur (Oktober–November)
Permits & Rules: Izin pendakian pemerintah Nepal + biaya Taman Nasional Makalu-Barun
Hazards: Dinding es & batu curam, medan terpencil tanpa evakuasi cepat, cuaca ekstrem, ketinggian >7.000 m, longsoran salju

Description

Chamlang is a 7,319-metre peak in the Mahalangur Himal (Barun section) of eastern Nepal, standing about 16 km southwest of Makalu in the remote Hongu/Barun region. The massif has three summits — main (7,319 m), east (7,235 m), and central (7,180 m) — and a high, steep northwest face. The main summit was first climbed on 31 May 1962 by the Hokkaido Academic Alpine Club (Japan) via the South Ridge. Rarely climbed due to its technical difficulty and remoteness, it is a coveted objective for alpinists. In May 2019, Czech climbers Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák completed the first ascent of the ~2,000 m Northwest Face in alpine style — named the 'UFO Line' — winning a 2020 Piolet d'Or.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Dinding Barat Laut — 'UFO Line' (rute baru 2019)

ABO (M6, WI5), sekitar 2.000 m ketinggian, gaya alpine

7 malam di dinding (hari puncak ke-5), gaya alpine — Marek Holeček & Zdeněk Hák, 17–23 Mei 2019

'UFO Line' is the first complete ascent of Chamlang's Northwest Face, opened by Czech climbers Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák on 17–23 May 2019 in alpine style. The ~2,000 m route climbs M6 mixed ground and WI5 ice, named 'UFO' in homage to Messner/Scott's 1981 north-side climb. It won a 2020 Piolet d'Or, with descent via the south ridge. A purely elite alpinism objective — NOT for commercial expeditions.

Source

Punggungan Barat (West Ridge)

Punggungan salju/es alpine Himalaya

Ekspedisi Himalaya penuh dengan rotasi kamp; jalur pendakian kedua ke puncak utama

The West Ridge was the second ascent route to Chamlang's main summit, completed in 1986 by a Japanese expedition. In 1990, a German expedition climbed a combination of the Northwest and West faces. This ridge line demands high-altitude snow and ice climbing skills and full expedition logistics in remote terrain.

Source

Punggungan Selatan (South Ridge) — rute pendakian pertama

Ekspedisi salju/es Himalaya — punggungan panjang, paparan ketinggian >7.000 m, akses jauh

Ekspedisi Himalaya penuh (beberapa minggu) dengan rotasi kamp dan aklimatisasi di kawasan Hongu/Barun yang terpencil

The South Ridge is Chamlang's first-ascent route to the 7,319 m main summit, climbed on 31 May 1962 by the Hokkaido Academic Alpine Club of Japan. The Chamlang massif has three summits (main 7,319 m, east 7,235 m, central 7,180 m) and stands about 16 km southwest of Makalu in the remote Hongu/Barun region of eastern Nepal. A long approach through Makalu-Barun National Park and the lack of quick evacuation make this route suitable only for experienced expedition teams.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Chamlang (7,319 m) in the Mahalangur Himal is a rarely climbed Himalayan peak — remote, technical, and highly prized by alpinists. The links below document real climbs and expeditions: the Piolet d'Or 2020-winning film of the first ascent of the Northwest Face 'UFO Line', West Ridge footage by a Japanese climber, Spanish-language expedition acclimatization footage, plus accounts from the American Alpine Journal and PlanetMountain. All links are verified live from public data.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.