GUNUNG · Nepal

Baruntse

बारुन्त्से (Baruntse)

Information

Elevation: 7.129 m
Country: Nepal (NP)
Location / Range: Mahalangur Himal (Barun section), Himalaya
Mountain type: Himalayan orogenic peak (non-volcanic)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 27.8723, 86.9794
Difficulty: Highly technical (AD+) — glaciers, steep 50° ice, ice walls at about 7,000 m
Best Season: Autumn (September–November) & spring (April–May)
Permits & Rules: Nepal government climbing permit + Makalu-Barun National Park fee
Hazards: Steep ice walls (~50°) at 7,000 m elevation, avalanches, unpredictable weather, high-altitude exposure >7,000 m

Description

Baruntse (7,129 m) is a four-summited snow peak in the Mahalangur Himal of eastern Nepal, flanked by Makalu and the Everest massif above the remote Barun Valley. Bounded by the Hunku, Barun, and Imja glaciers, it is a popular 7,000-metre training peak for aspiring eight-thousanders due to its combination of glacier travel, technical ice climbing, and extreme altitude. First climbed on 30 May 1954 via the southeast ridge by a New Zealand expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary, it gained renewed attention in 2021 when Czech alpinists Márek Holeček and Radoslav Groh completed the bold new 'Heavenly Trap' route on the West Face, a Piolet d'Or nominee.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Punggungan Tenggara (Southeast Ridge) — rute normal

AD+ (Assez Difficile plus) — tebing es ~50° dengan dinding es vertikal di ±7.000 m, perjalanan gletser panjang, paparan ketinggian ekstrem

Ekspedisi total ±28–35 hari; sekitar 12–15 hari aktif dari Base Camp ke puncak termasuk aklimatisasi dan rotasi kamp

The Southeast Ridge is Baruntse's standard route, first climbed on 30 May 1954 by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow of Sir Edmund Hillary's New Zealand expedition. The approach begins from Lukla via Mera La (5,415 m) or directly through the Barun Valley from Num. From Base Camp (~5,700 m), climbers establish Camp 1 near the col on the north ridge (~6,300 m) and Camp 2 on the southeast ridge (~6,700 m). The crux is an ~50° ice face with a near-vertical ice cliff at ~7,000 m before the summit. Fixed ropes are installed by Sherpa teams on key sections. Best seasons are autumn (October–November) and spring (April–May); autumn is generally preferred for more stable snow conditions.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Baruntse (7,129 m) in the Mahalangur Himal is one of Nepal's most demanding and rewarding 7,000-metre peaks — an ideal glacier and ice 'high school' as a stepping stone toward eight-thousanders like Makalu or Everest. The standard Southeast Ridge route requires long glacier travel, overcoming ~50° ice cliffs near 7,000 m, and peak physical fitness in thin air. The videos below document real expeditions from various years — from raw 4K summit climbs to full documentary films of combined Mera Peak + Baruntse expeditions. All links are verified from public data.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.