GUNUNG · Nepal

Baruntse

बारुन्त्से (Baruntse)

Information

Elevation: 7.129 m
Country: Nepal (NP)
Location / Range: Mahalangur Himal (Barun section), Himalaya
Mountain type: Himalayan orogenic peak (non-volcanic)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 27.8723, 86.9794
Difficulty: Highly technical (AD+) — glaciers, steep 50° ice, ice walls at about 7,000 m
Best Season: Autumn (September–November) & spring (April–May)
Permits & Rules: Nepal government climbing permit + Makalu-Barun National Park fee
Hazards: Steep ice walls (~50°) at 7,000 m elevation, avalanches, unpredictable weather, high-altitude exposure >7,000 m

Description

Baruntse (7,129 m) is a four-summited snow peak in the Mahalangur Himal of eastern Nepal, flanked by Makalu and the Everest massif above the remote Barun Valley. Bounded by the Hunku, Barun, and Imja glaciers, it is a popular 7,000-metre training peak for aspiring eight-thousanders due to its combination of glacier travel, technical ice climbing, and extreme altitude. First climbed on 30 May 1954 via the southeast ridge by a New Zealand expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary, it gained renewed attention in 2021 when Czech alpinists Márek Holeček and Radoslav Groh completed the bold new 'Heavenly Trap' route on the West Face, a Piolet d'Or nominee.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Punggungan Tenggara (Southeast Ridge) — rute normal

AD+ (Assez Difficile plus) — tebing es ~50° dengan dinding es vertikal di ±7.000 m, perjalanan gletser panjang, paparan ketinggian ekstrem

Ekspedisi total ±28–35 hari; sekitar 12–15 hari aktif dari Base Camp ke puncak termasuk aklimatisasi dan rotasi kamp

The Southeast Ridge is Baruntse's standard route, first climbed on 30 May 1954 by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow of Sir Edmund Hillary's New Zealand expedition. The approach begins from Lukla via Mera La (5,415 m) or directly through the Barun Valley from Num. From Base Camp (~5,700 m), climbers establish Camp 1 near the col on the north ridge (~6,300 m) and Camp 2 on the southeast ridge (~6,700 m). The crux is an ~50° ice face with a near-vertical ice cliff at ~7,000 m before the summit. Fixed ropes are installed by Sherpa teams on key sections. Best seasons are autumn (October–November) and spring (April–May); autumn is generally preferred for more stable snow conditions.

Source

Safety Statistics

Aggregated for prevention and awareness — not a casualty list. Read alongside the safety tips below.

Indicative — small sample size.

0.43% Fatality rate per recorded attempt

4 Recorded deaths

922 Attempts

Period 1950–2006 · Himalayan Database, Table D-3 p. 154: 0.43% = 4 deaths / N=922 member participations above base camp, 1950–2006. Attempt means a member participation, not an expedition or unique individual; hired personnel are excluded. Appendix A pp. 136–137 agrees, but independent confirmation with the same basis/period was not found. Indicative: only four deaths and historical data; this does not predict current risk. The following narrative hazards are not a breakdown of those four deaths; evidence cannot establish annual trends or the riskiest season. · single source

Causes of death

Avalanche

💡 AAJ 1989 warns of avalanche danger on the Khumbu approach; prevention lesson: assess approach-route exposure before choosing a route and be prepared to cancel.
Source
Severe weather

💡 The 2021 climbing account records a storm-delayed descent; prevention lesson: obtain forecast updates, carry reserve supplies and plan emergency communications.
Source

Notable incidents

2021 Storm delays descent after the west-face climb

Two climbers were delayed by bad weather after summiting on May 25; a helicopter collected them on May 30 after a partial descent. Lesson: safety planning must cover descent and delayed assistance. This event falls outside the 1950–2006 statistical period.
Source

Statistics source: Source

Climbing Experiences

Baruntse (7,129 m) in the Mahalangur Himal is one of Nepal's most demanding and rewarding 7,000-metre peaks — an ideal glacier and ice 'high school' as a stepping stone toward eight-thousanders like Makalu or Everest. The standard Southeast Ridge route requires long glacier travel, overcoming ~50° ice cliffs near 7,000 m, and peak physical fitness in thin air. The videos below document real expeditions from various years — from raw 4K summit climbs to full documentary films of combined Mera Peak + Baruntse expeditions. All links are verified from public data.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.