GUNUNG · Argentina

Aconcagua

Information

Elevation: 6.962 m
Country: Argentina (AR)
Location / Range: Andes Mountains, Mendoza Province, Argentina (Aconcagua Provincial Park)
Mountain type: The highest peak in the Americas and the southern/western hemisphere (the highest outside Asia)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: -32.6531, -70.0117
Difficulty: Strenuous (the normal route is non-technical but very high; the Polish Glacier/Glaciar de los Polacos route is technical)
Best Season: Mid-November–March (southern hemisphere summer)
Permits & Rules: Mandatory paid climbing permit from Mendoza Province (issued in Mendoza); fees differ between peak/off seasons and by nationality
Hazards: Altitude sickness (AMS/HAPE/HACE), the 'viento blanco' storm winds, very cold temperatures, sudden weather changes, dehydration

Description

Aconcagua (6,962 m) is the highest mountain in the Americas and the highest point outside Asia, rising in the Andes of Mendoza Province, Argentina, near the Chilean border. Although the Normal Route on the northwest side is non-technical—typically requiring no ropes or crampons in standard conditions—it remains extremely demanding because of the high altitude and fierce winds, and many climbers fail to summit due to altitude sickness. Other routes such as the Polish Glacier (Glaciar de los Polacos) are far more technical. Expeditions usually take 14–20 days including acclimatisation, moving through camps such as Plaza de Mulas and high camps toward the summit. Every climber must hold an official permit from Mendoza Province, and the area is protected as Aconcagua Provincial Park.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Jalur Normal (Northwest / Ruta Normal)

Berat (non-teknis)

14–18 hari (termasuk aklimatisasi)

Rute terpopuler dari Lembah Horcones lewat base camp Plaza de Mulas, lalu kamp-kamp tinggi (Canadá, Nido de Cóndores, Berlín/Cólera) menuju puncak. Secara teknis tidak menuntut tali/crampon di kondisi standar, tetapi ketinggian ekstrem dan angin menjadikannya sangat berat.

Jalur Polish Glacier Traverse (Vacas / Falso de los Polacos)

Berat

16–20 hari

Masuk lewat Lembah Vacas yang lebih terpencil hingga base camp Plaza Argentina, menyusuri sisi timur, lalu memotong (traverse) bergabung ke jalur normal di bagian atas. Lebih panjang dan terpencil; menawarkan pemandangan berbeda dengan aklimatisasi yang baik.

Polish Glacier Direct (Glaciar de los Polacos)

Sangat berat (teknis, es)

16–20 hari

Variasi langsung mendaki gletser Polandia di sisi timur—rute teknis bersalju/es yang memerlukan keterampilan mendaki es dan peralatan glasier; jauh lebih sulit daripada jalur normal.

Safety Statistics

Moderate risk

Aggregated for prevention and awareness — not a casualty list. Read alongside the safety tips below.

0.08% Fatality rate per recorded attempt

33 Recorded deaths

42.731 Attempts

Period 2001–2012 · Wilderness & Environmental Medicine study: of 42,731 climbers who attempted the summit over 2001–2012 there were 33 deaths — a fatality rate of 0.77 per 1,000 attempts (0.077%, on a per-registered-climber basis via the park medical service). A follow-up 2013–2024 study recorded 21 deaths among 29,397 climbers (0.071%), with 90% of deaths above 6,000 m and elevated risk for climbers over 50. The rate is lower than Everest or Denali but higher than Rainier. Aconcagua is the highest peak in the Southern/Western Hemispheres and is usually climbed rope-free (the normal Northwest route) — its danger is not technical but extreme altitude: summit air pressure is roughly 40% of sea level. About 3,000+ climbers per season (Nov–Feb); park-ranger estimates put summit success at only ~30–40%.

Causes of death

Altitude illness (AMS/HACE/HAPE) 71.00%

💡 In 2013–2024, ~71% of deaths were from medical causes and 90% occurred above 6,000 m — pulmonary oedema (HAPE), cerebral oedema (HACE), and sudden cardiac arrest are the leading killers, not technical terrain. Acclimatise gradually, follow 'climb high, sleep low', do not ascend while ill, and descend the moment altitude symptoms worsen.
Source
Fall 19.00%

💡 Fall trauma accounts for ~19% of deaths (2013–2024) and ~27% in 2001–2012 — highest on the steeper Polish Glacier route and during fatigued descents. Choose a route within your ability, save energy for the descent, and use crampons and an ice axe on icy terrain.
Source
Exposure / hypothermia

💡 A 'viento blanco' storm can arrive fast with temperatures below −25°C and near-zero visibility — a deadly combination with altitude fatigue (the January 2009 cluster of deaths). Watch weather windows, abort movement in a storm, and carry a logistical margin in case you get pinned down.
Source

Notable incidents

2009 January 2009 summit storm & failed high-altitude rescue

In January 2009 a team that had reached the summit was caught in a whiteout storm with very short visibility and temperatures below −25°C, strayed off route, and was overcome by the extreme conditions; a high-altitude rescue attempt failed and drew international attention. It was part of a cluster of five deaths that month and a reminder that summit weather can turn faster than rescue can reach you — timely turnaround decisions and weather margin matter more than the summit.
Source

Statistics source: Source Source

Climbing Experiences

Climbing Aconcagua (6,962 m) is typically a 14–20 day expedition via the Normal Route on the northwest side, passing Plaza de Mulas and a series of high camps before the summit push. Trip reports stress staged acclimatisation, the brutal cold winds and extreme altitude, the long exhausting summit day, and the sweeping Andean panoramas from the roof of the Americas. Some videos below document more technical routes and a 360° traverse.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.