GUNUNG · Argentina

Aconcagua

Information

Elevation: 6.962 m
Country: Argentina (AR)
Location / Range: Andes Mountains, Mendoza Province, Argentina (Aconcagua Provincial Park)
Mountain type: The highest peak in the Americas and the southern/western hemisphere (the highest outside Asia)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: -32.6531, -70.0117
Difficulty: Strenuous (the normal route is non-technical but very high; the Polish Glacier/Glaciar de los Polacos route is technical)
Best Season: Mid-November–March (southern hemisphere summer)
Permits & Rules: Mandatory paid climbing permit from Mendoza Province (issued in Mendoza); fees differ between peak/off seasons and by nationality
Hazards: Altitude sickness (AMS/HAPE/HACE), the 'viento blanco' storm winds, very cold temperatures, sudden weather changes, dehydration

Description

Aconcagua (6,962 m) is the highest mountain in the Americas and the highest point outside Asia, rising in the Andes of Mendoza Province, Argentina, near the Chilean border. Although the Normal Route on the northwest side is non-technical—typically requiring no ropes or crampons in standard conditions—it remains extremely demanding because of the high altitude and fierce winds, and many climbers fail to summit due to altitude sickness. Other routes such as the Polish Glacier (Glaciar de los Polacos) are far more technical. Expeditions usually take 14–20 days including acclimatisation, moving through camps such as Plaza de Mulas and high camps toward the summit. Every climber must hold an official permit from Mendoza Province, and the area is protected as Aconcagua Provincial Park.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Jalur Normal (Northwest / Ruta Normal)

Berat (non-teknis)

14–18 hari (termasuk aklimatisasi)

Rute terpopuler dari Lembah Horcones lewat base camp Plaza de Mulas, lalu kamp-kamp tinggi (Canadá, Nido de Cóndores, Berlín/Cólera) menuju puncak. Secara teknis tidak menuntut tali/crampon di kondisi standar, tetapi ketinggian ekstrem dan angin menjadikannya sangat berat.

Jalur Polish Glacier Traverse (Vacas / Falso de los Polacos)

Berat

16–20 hari

Masuk lewat Lembah Vacas yang lebih terpencil hingga base camp Plaza Argentina, menyusuri sisi timur, lalu memotong (traverse) bergabung ke jalur normal di bagian atas. Lebih panjang dan terpencil; menawarkan pemandangan berbeda dengan aklimatisasi yang baik.

Polish Glacier Direct (Glaciar de los Polacos)

Sangat berat (teknis, es)

16–20 hari

Variasi langsung mendaki gletser Polandia di sisi timur—rute teknis bersalju/es yang memerlukan keterampilan mendaki es dan peralatan glasier; jauh lebih sulit daripada jalur normal.

Climbing Experiences

Climbing Aconcagua (6,962 m) is typically a 14–20 day expedition via the Normal Route on the northwest side, passing Plaza de Mulas and a series of high camps before the summit push. Trip reports stress staged acclimatisation, the brutal cold winds and extreme altitude, the long exhausting summit day, and the sweeping Andean panoramas from the roof of the Americas. Some videos below document more technical routes and a 360° traverse.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.