CLIMBER

Qu Yinhua

China

Member of the Chinese team that made the first ascent of Everest from the north (25 May 1960); took off his boots to pass the Second Step and lost all ten toes.

Qu Yinhua (屈银华, 3 March 1935 – 19 September 2016) was a Chinese mountaineer from Yunyang, Sichuan, who with Wang Fuzhou and Gonpo reached the summit of Everest at 4:20 a.m. on 25 May 1960 — the first ascent in history by the north ridge. At the near-vertical Second Step the team could make no progress until Qu removed his climbing boots so he could stand on Liu Lianman's shoulders and place pitons as a human ladder; the price was all ten of his toes and his right index finger, amputated after he was hospitalised from 30 May. He served for years in Xinjiang before returning to Beijing in the 1980s, living modestly in Tongzhou District until his death in 2016, and received several state honours for his part in the ascent.

Sumber: zh.wikipedia.org