GUNUNG · Switzerland

Zinalrothorn

Information

Elevation: 4.221 m
Country: Switzerland (CH)
Location / Range: Alpen Pennine (Pennine Alps / Walliser Alpen), Kanton Valais — di antara lembah Zinal (utara) dan Zermatt
Mountain type: Puncak batu/campuran alpine (non-vulkanik) di Pennine Alps — salah satu 4000-an klasik Valais
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 46.0647, 7.6900
Difficulty: Berat (panjat alpine teknis): rute normal Rothorngrat/punggungan utara bergrade AD dengan panjat batu berekposur dan medan campuran es-batu; menuntut pemandu bagi kebanyakan pendaki
Best Season: Pertengahan Juli–September (kondisi salju/es lebih stabil, pondok beroperasi)
Permits & Rules: Tidak ada izin khusus; akses lewat pondok gunung (Rothornhütte/Cabane du Mountet) yang perlu reservasi di musim ramai
Hazards: Eksposur tinggi di punggungan, batu rapuh di beberapa bagian, jatuhan batu, retakan gletser di pendekatan, dan perubahan cuaca cepat khas Alpen tinggi

Description

The Zinalrothorn (4,221 m) is one of the classic four-thousanders of the Pennine Alps in the Swiss canton of Valais, rising between the Zinal valley to the north and the Zermatt area to the south. Its name combines the village of Zinal with the German word 'Rothorn' ('red peak'); before its first ascent locals called it 'Moming'. It was first climbed in 1864 by a party led by Leslie Stephen with guides Melchior and Jakob Anderegg. Its normal route, the Rothorngrat (north ridge) reached from the Rothorn Hut above Zermatt, is regarded as one of the most aesthetic alpine ridge climbs in Valais — a long, exposed rock climb with direct views of the Matterhorn, Weisshorn and Dent Blanche. Because of its technical character (AD grade over mixed terrain), the Zinalrothorn is usually climbed with a mountain guide and demands fitness and alpine climbing experience. It is a frequent tick on alpinists' lists of Alpine 4000ers.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Rothorngrat (Punggungan Utara) — jalur normal dari Zermatt

AD (Assez Difficile); panjat batu berekposur hingga UIAA III–IV di medan campuran es-batu

2 hari (menginap di Rothornhütte 3.198 m; summit pulang-pergi ±8–10 jam)

The most classic and popular route, ascending from Zermatt via the Rothorn Hut. It involves a short glacier crossing then a long, exposed climb of the north ridge (Rothorngrat), including well-known rock steps such as the 'Gabel'. It demands top fitness, alpine climbing experience, speed, and usually a mountain guide.

Source

Rothorngrat via Cabane du Mountet — pendekatan panjang dari lembah Zinal

AD — panjat batu bersih Alpine II–III di punggungan berekposur; sebagian pendekatan lembah bisa memakai e-bike

Hari puncak 'lima jam gletser-ke-puncak, sepuluh jam pondok-ke-pondok'; pendekatan panjang ke Cabane du Mountet (±4,5 jam)

A guide-reported approach variant: instead of from Zermatt, the Rothorngrat is reached via a long valley approach with much boulder-hopping (partly using e-bikes to a stream bridge) to the Cabane du Mountet above the glacier. From the hut the climb follows the ridge's signature features — the Épaule shoulder, the narrow exposed 'Le Rasoir', and the final 'La Bosse' pitch on clean, well-protected rock — with new rappel rings for the descent. It demands speed, team communication, and alpine climbing experience.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Climbing the Zinalrothorn (4,221 m) is a technical alpine climb, not an ordinary trek. The classic line is the Rothorngrat (north ridge) accessed from the Rothorn Hut above Zermatt: a pre-dawn start, crossing glacier terrain then climbing a long, exposed rock ridge to the summit. Climbers emphasise the AD grade, the need for top fitness and alpine climbing experience, speed to avoid afternoon weather, and usually hiring a mountain guide. Alongside the videos, this now includes English textual trip reports (a personal blog report, a guide's route report, and a Valais photographer's summit portrait) plus a SummitPost data page — all verified live. The summit offers direct panoramas of the Matterhorn, Weisshorn and Dent Blanche.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.