GUNUNG · Peru

Yerupajá

Nevado Yerupajá

Information

Elevation: 6.635 m
Country: Peru (PE)
Location / Range: Cordillera Huayhuash, Andes (Peru)
Mountain type: Gunung (puncak es-batu, alpine teknis)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: -10.2689, -76.9053
Difficulty: Ekstrem (alpine teknis tinggi; hanya sedikit pendakian berhasil)
Best Season: Mei–Agustus (musim kering Andes)
Permits & Rules: Pendakian di kawasan Cordillera Huayhuash lazimnya membayar iuran komunitas lokal di sepanjang sirkuit dan menggunakan pemandu terdaftar; akses inti dari Huaraz lewat Chiquián–Llamac/Jahuacocha. Pendakian puncak menuntut logistik ekspedisi penuh.
Hazards: Punggung puncak setajam pisau bersalju rapuh dengan cornice gantung, dinding es curam, serac dan jatuhan es, crevasse gletser, cuaca cepat berubah, dan ketinggian ekstrem yang menuntut aklimatisasi penuh.

Description

Yerupajá (6,635 m) is the second-highest mountain in Peru after Huascarán and the highest summit of the Cordillera Huayhuash—also the highest point in the entire Amazon River watershed. Its steep icy pyramid is often called one of South America's most spectacular peaks, yet it ranks among the hardest high Andean mountains to climb, with only a handful of successful ascents. The summit was first reached on 31 July 1950 by Americans David Harrah and Jim Maxwell. The most-attempted line is on the Southwest Face, approached from Huaraz via Chiquián toward the Jahuacocha valley. Yerupajá's most fearsome feature is its knife-edge summit ridge of unstable snow and cornices, making the final steps to the top extremely dangerous. Its other faces have hosted world-class alpinism—including the 1969 East Face ascent by Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Wajah Barat Daya (Southwest Face) — jalur paling sering dicoba

Sangat berat — es/salju alpine tinggi, punggung puncak bercornice

Ekspedisi penuh (aklimatisasi + pendakian) ~2–3 minggu; segmen puncak beberapa hari

Garis yang paling sering dicoba menuju puncak utama Yerupajá, dengan pendekatan dari Huaraz lewat Chiquián dan lembah Jahuacocha. Pendakian menuntut kemampuan es-salju alpine tinggi dan menghadapi punggung puncak setajam pisau yang bersalju gembur dan bercornice—faktor yang membuat pendakian berhasil sangat sedikit. Perlu aklimatisasi penuh dan jendela cuaca stabil di musim kering.

Source

Wajah Timur (East Face) — pendakian klasik 1969

Ekstrem (alpinisme kelas dunia)

Multi-hari (ekspedisi)

Wajah timur Yerupajá menjadi arena alpinisme bersejarah, termasuk pendakian 1969 oleh Reinhold Messner dan Peter Habeler. Terdokumentasi di arsip American Alpine Journal sebagai salah satu tonggak pendakian teknis di gunung ini; hanya untuk tim berpengalaman tinggi dengan komitmen ekspedisi penuh.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Yerupajá (6,635 m) is rarely summited because of its knife-edge crest and high objective danger, so most visitors know it from the Cordillera Huayhuash trekking circuit that rings its base past viewpoints such as Laguna Carhuacocha and the Mirador Tres Lagunas. Technical ascent records are documented in climbing databases (SummitPost, American Alpine Club) and alpinism reporting (Planetmountain), while trek videos show Yerupajá's panorama straight from the circuit.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.