GUNUNG · Austria
Wildspitze
Source
Photo: source
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- Feels like
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Source: Open-Meteo
Information
- Elevation
- 3.768 m
- Country
- Austria (AT)
- Location / Range
- Pegunungan Ötztal (Ötztaler Alpen), Tirol, Austria — di atas desa Vent, dikelilingi gletser Rofenkarferner & Taschachferner
- Mountain type
- Puncak es dan batu (gneiss) berselimut gletser; puncak tertinggi Pegunungan Ötztal dan tertinggi kedua di Austria setelah Grossglockner; tertinggi di Tirol Utara
- Volcanic?
- No (non-volcanic)
- Coordinates
- 46.8853, 10.8672
- Difficulty
- Berat (hochtour/pendakian gletser): jalur normal dari Vent via Breslauer Hütte dan Mitterkarjoch menuntut crampon, kapak es, tali, dan teknik glasial; bagian puncak berupa punggungan firn/salju yang terekspos
- Best Season
- Akhir Juni–September (kondisi gletser paling stabil); di luar itu risiko celah es terbuka & cuaca alpine ekstrem
- Permits & Rules
- Tanpa izin pendakian; disarankan menginap di Breslauer Hütte (2.844 m, ÖAV) atau memakai pemandu gunung untuk penyeberangan gletser
- Hazards
- Celah es (crevasse) tersembunyi di Taschachferner/Mitterkarferner, gletser yang menyusut membuat medan berubah, batu jatuh di seksi campuran, badai dan penurunan suhu mendadak di atas 3.500 m, eksposur di punggungan puncak
Description
The Wildspitze (3,768 m) is the highest peak of the Ötztal Alps and the second-highest mountain in Austria after the Grossglockner (3,798 m), as well as the highest point of North Tyrol. This rock-and-ice summit is ringed by large glaciers and is one of the most popular glacier tours (hochtour) in the Eastern Alps. The normal route usually starts from the village of Vent, ascends to the Breslauer Hütte (2,844 m), then crosses glaciers to the Mitterkarjoch col before following an exposed firn/snow ridge to the summit. Because it involves crevassed terrain, the climb demands crampons, an ice axe, a rope, and glacier-travel skills — many climbers hire a mountain guide. The glaciers' retreat over recent decades changes the route conditions from year to year. From the top, the panorama spans the ice-clad peaks of the Ötztal, Pitztal, and the Italian border.
Gallery
Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.
Routes
Jalur normal dari Vent via Breslauer Hütte & Mitterkarjoch
Berat (hochtour/gletser, PD): butuh crampon, kapak es, tali; punggungan puncak firn tereksposThe normal and most popular route. From the village of Vent (~1,900 m) ascend to the Breslauer Hütte (2,844 m) for an overnight, then cross glaciers to the Mitterkarjoch col and follow an exposed firn/snow ridge to the 3,768 m summit. The crevassed terrain demands glacier skills; many climbers hire a guide. Conditions change yearly as the glaciers retreat.
Route Segments
- 1
Vent → Breslauer Hütte
Pendekatan menanjak ke pondok ÖAV untuk aklimatisasi & menginap
- 2
Breslauer Hütte → gletser → Mitterkarjoch
Penyeberangan gletser bercelah menuju celah Mitterkarjoch
- 3
Mitterkarjoch → punggungan firn → Puncak
Punggungan salju/firn terekspos menuju puncak
Rute Südostgrat (punggungan tenggara)
Berat & lebih teknis dari jalur normal — eksposur tinggi ('Himmelsleiter')A more technical, exposed variation via the south-east ridge (Südostgrat), nicknamed the 'Himmelsleiter' (heaven's ladder). It combines mixed ice-and-rock terrain with high exposure; it demands alpine experience and glacier judgement. Suited to climbers seeking more than the normal route.
SourceClimbing Experiences
The Wildspitze (3,768 m) is a classic glacier tour (hochtour) in the Ötztal Alps. The normal route leaves the village of Vent for the Breslauer Hütte (2,844 m), crosses glaciers to the Mitterkarjoch, then follows an exposed firn/snow ridge to the summit — requiring crampons, an ice axe, a rope, and glacier-travel skills. The videos below capture the normal route, glacier crossing, south-east ridge, and summit traverse, in English and German.
References
The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.