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GUNUNG · Jerman

Watzmann

Source
Watzmann

Photo: source

Information

Elevation
2.713 m
Country
Jerman (DE)
Location / Range
Berchtesgaden Alps (Berchtesgadener Alpen), Southeastern Bavaria, Germany — within Berchtesgaden National Park
Mountain type
Non-volcanic rocky peak (Triassic limestone); part of the Watzmann massif with three main summits; an icon of the Bavarian Alps
Volcanic?
No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates
47.5564, 12.9441
Difficulty
Moderate to very strenuous depending on the route: the normal route via the Watzmannhaus (moderate-strenuous, UIAA I–II); the Watzmann Überschreitung (strenuous, UIAA II–III); the Ostwand/East Face (very strenuous, UIAA V+, ED, only for top-class alpinists)
Best Season
June–October for the normal route and the Überschreitung; the Ostwand is done in winter or early summer by experienced alpinists
Permits & Rules
No climbing permit; within Berchtesgaden National Park (trails remain open); a Watzmannhaus (1,930 m, DAV) reservation is strongly advised
Hazards
Slippery limestone when wet, crevices and cliffs on the east face, rockfall, sudden midday storms in summer, early/late-season snow, high exposure on the Überschreitung ridge

Description

The Watzmann (2,713 m) is one of Germany's most iconic mountains and the country's third-highest — as well as the highest lying entirely within German territory. This three-summited limestone massif rises dramatically above the Königssee inside Berchtesgaden National Park in south-eastern Bavaria, comprising the Hocheck (2,651 m), the Mittelspitze (2,713 m, the highest) and the Südspitze (2,712 m). Linking the three via the 'Watzmann-Überschreitung' is one of the best-known classic ridge traverses in the Eastern Alps. Its eastern side, the Watzmann-Ostwand — one of the largest faces in the Eastern Alps (nearly 1,800 m) — carries a serious reputation and a long accident history, and is no place for ordinary walkers. The usual base is the Watzmannhaus (1,930 m, DAV hut) on the western flank. The mountain is also rich in folklore: the tale of the cruel 'King Watzmann' turned to stone with his family, so its summit silhouette is often read as a king, queen and children (the Watzmannkinder). For hikers the Watzmann offers spectacular views over the Königssee and the Berchtesgaden Alps, but demands strong fitness, experience and respect for the weather.

Routes

Normalweg via Watzmannhaus — Jalur Normal

Menengah–berat; UIAA I–II scrambling ringan di bagian atas; beda tinggi ±1.800 m
1–2 hari (1 hari penuh ±10–14 jam, atau bermalam di Watzmannhaus)

The most popular normal route on the Watzmann. Starting from the Wimbachbrücke car park near Ramsau (610 m) or from Berchtesgaden, the trail climbs through forest and alpine meadows to the Watzmannhaus (1,930 m, DAV hut) in roughly 3–4 hours. From the hut, the route continues up over rocky slopes and some light scrambling (UIAA I–II) past Hocheck (2,651 m) to the main summit, Mittelspitze (2,713 m). At Hocheck there is a signpost and the first direct view of the east face (Ostwand). The section from Hocheck to Mittelspitze is slightly more technical with some handwork required. Descent follows the same line. Overnighting at the Watzmannhaus (with reservation) splits the trip and allows an earlier start.

Route Segments

  1. 1

    Wimbachbrücke → Watzmannhaus

    ↔ 7.5 km ↑ 1320 m ⏱ 3–4 jam 1.930 mdpl

    Jalur bermarkah baik; hutan, padang alpin; melewati Kührointalm

  2. 2

    Watzmannhaus → Hocheck

    ↑ 721 m ⏱ 2–2,5 jam 2.651 mdpl

    Lereng berbatu steeper; beberapa seksi scrambling UIAA I; pandangan Ostwand mulai terlihat

  3. 3

    Hocheck → Mittelspitze (Puncak Utama)

    ↑ 62 m ⏱ 30–60 menit 2.713 mdpl

    Ridge dengan beberapa seksi tangan UIAA II; hati-hati eksposur

Source

Watzmann Ostwand — Dinding Timur

Sangat berat; UIAA V+ hingga VI; hanya untuk alpinis berpengalaman; ED (Extremely Difficult) pada banyak rute
2–4 hari (tergantung rute dan kondisi)

The Watzmann East Face at approximately 1,800 m is one of the most prestigious and dangerous alpine challenges in Germany and Austria. It has claimed more than 100 lives since the first ascent attempts. Several routes cross the face — from the relatively 'easier' Direktissima to extremely difficult lines. Late winter to early spring is the traditional season when the frozen rock is most stable, though summer ascents are also undertaken. Strictly for fully experienced alpine teams at a high technical standard.

Source

Watzmann Überschreitung — Traversal Tiga Puncak

Berat; UIAA II–III; scrambling terbuka panjang di punggungan sempit berekposur tinggi; via ferrata elements
1–2 hari (traversal sendiri ±12–16 jam); sering dibagi 2 hari dengan bermalam di Watzmannhaus

The so-called 'Königstour' (royal tour) traverse across all three Watzmann summits — Hocheck (2,651 m), Mittelspitze (2,713 m), Südspitze (2,712 m) — plus several subsidiary peaks in between, covering over 8 km of narrow, exposed ridge. After the Südspitze, the route descends via the Eiskapelle to Königssee (the lake), making this a one-way traverse (requiring return transport). Most teams overnight at the Watzmannhaus on night one, completing the traverse the following day.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Climbers' accounts of the Watzmann depend heavily on the chosen route. Most center on the Watzmann-Überschreitung — the three-summit ridge traverse (Hocheck 2,651 m → Mittelspitze 2,713 m → Südspitze 2,712 m) regarded as one of the most demanding classic tours in the Bavarian Alps. Parties usually overnight at the Watzmannhaus (1,930 m) before crossing the highly exposed rocky ridge, partly secured with steel cables, then face a long, punishing descent toward the Wimbachtal. Recurring themes are settled weather, an early start, a cool head on the exposed sections, and stamina, since the full traverse can take 10–12 hours. Other sources highlight the gentler approach to the Watzmannhaus, a beginner's first crossing of the traverse, a Bavarian public-TV documentary, and warnings about the deadly Watzmann East Face (~1,800 m), reserved for elite alpinists.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.

  1. 1 Wikipedia Watzmann en.wikipedia.org · EN
  2. 2 Wikipedia Watzmann de.wikipedia.org · DE
  3. 3 Wikidata Watzmann (Q163919) wikidata.org · EN
  4. 4 Encyclopedia Watzmann-Überschreitung Klettersteig bergsteigen.com · DE