GUNUNG · Jerman

Watzmann

Information

Elevation: 2.713 m
Country: Jerman (DE)
Location / Range: Berchtesgaden Alps (Berchtesgadener Alpen), Southeastern Bavaria, Germany — within Berchtesgaden National Park
Mountain type: Non-volcanic rocky peak (Triassic limestone); part of the Watzmann massif with three main summits; an icon of the Bavarian Alps
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 47.5564, 12.9441
Difficulty: Moderate to very strenuous depending on the route: the normal route via the Watzmannhaus (moderate-strenuous, UIAA I–II); the Watzmann Überschreitung (strenuous, UIAA II–III); the Ostwand/East Face (very strenuous, UIAA V+, ED, only for top-class alpinists)
Best Season: June–October for the normal route and the Überschreitung; the Ostwand is done in winter or early summer by experienced alpinists
Permits & Rules: No climbing permit; within Berchtesgaden National Park (trails remain open); a Watzmannhaus (1,930 m, DAV) reservation is strongly advised
Hazards: Slippery limestone when wet, crevices and cliffs on the east face, rockfall, sudden midday storms in summer, early/late-season snow, high exposure on the Überschreitung ridge

Description

Watzmann (2,713 m) is the most iconic mountain in Bavaria and the third-highest in Germany after the Zugspitze (2,962 m) and Hochwanner (2,744 m). The Watzmann massif rises within the Berchtesgaden National Park in south-eastern Bavaria and comprises three main summits — Hocheck (2,651 m), Mittelspitze (2,713 m, the highest), and Südspitze (2,712 m) — which can be linked via the popular Watzmann Überschreitung traverse. The Watzmann Ostwand — the east face, approximately 1,800 m high — is one of the most dangerous and prestigious walls in the Northern Limestone Alps, with more than 100 fatalities since the first ascent attempt. The most popular normal route follows the trail to Watzmannhaus (1,930 m, DAV hut) from Berchtesgaden or Ramsau, then climbs rocky slopes with some handwork sections to Hocheck and Mittelspitze. The mountain is enormously popular with German and European hikers — the Watzmannhaus is typically full on summer weekends.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Normalweg via Watzmannhaus — Jalur Normal

Menengah–berat; UIAA I–II scrambling ringan di bagian atas; beda tinggi ±1.800 m

1–2 hari (1 hari penuh ±10–14 jam, atau bermalam di Watzmannhaus)

The most popular normal route on the Watzmann. Starting from the Wimbachbrücke car park near Ramsau (610 m) or from Berchtesgaden, the trail climbs through forest and alpine meadows to the Watzmannhaus (1,930 m, DAV hut) in roughly 3–4 hours. From the hut, the route continues up over rocky slopes and some light scrambling (UIAA I–II) past Hocheck (2,651 m) to the main summit, Mittelspitze (2,713 m). At Hocheck there is a signpost and the first direct view of the east face (Ostwand). The section from Hocheck to Mittelspitze is slightly more technical with some handwork required. Descent follows the same line. Overnighting at the Watzmannhaus (with reservation) splits the trip and allows an earlier start.

Route Segments

1

Wimbachbrücke → Watzmannhaus

↔ 7.5 km ↑ 1320 m ⏱ 3–4 jam 1.930 mdpl

Jalur bermarkah baik; hutan, padang alpin; melewati Kührointalm
2

Watzmannhaus → Hocheck

↑ 721 m ⏱ 2–2,5 jam 2.651 mdpl

Lereng berbatu steeper; beberapa seksi scrambling UIAA I; pandangan Ostwand mulai terlihat
3

Hocheck → Mittelspitze (Puncak Utama)

↑ 62 m ⏱ 30–60 menit 2.713 mdpl

Ridge dengan beberapa seksi tangan UIAA II; hati-hati eksposur

Source

Watzmann Ostwand — Dinding Timur

Sangat berat; UIAA V+ hingga VI; hanya untuk alpinis berpengalaman; ED (Extremely Difficult) pada banyak rute

2–4 hari (tergantung rute dan kondisi)

The Watzmann East Face at approximately 1,800 m is one of the most prestigious and dangerous alpine challenges in Germany and Austria. It has claimed more than 100 lives since the first ascent attempts. Several routes cross the face — from the relatively 'easier' Direktissima to extremely difficult lines. Late winter to early spring is the traditional season when the frozen rock is most stable, though summer ascents are also undertaken. Strictly for fully experienced alpine teams at a high technical standard.

Source

Watzmann Überschreitung — Traversal Tiga Puncak

Berat; UIAA II–III; scrambling terbuka panjang di punggungan sempit berekposur tinggi; via ferrata elements

1–2 hari (traversal sendiri ±12–16 jam); sering dibagi 2 hari dengan bermalam di Watzmannhaus

The so-called 'Königstour' (royal tour) traverse across all three Watzmann summits — Hocheck (2,651 m), Mittelspitze (2,713 m), Südspitze (2,712 m) — plus several subsidiary peaks in between, covering over 8 km of narrow, exposed ridge. After the Südspitze, the route descends via the Eiskapelle to Königssee (the lake), making this a one-way traverse (requiring return transport). Most teams overnight at the Watzmannhaus on night one, completing the traverse the following day.

Source

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.