GUNUNG · Nepal

Tukuche Peak

Tukuche / टुकुचे

Information

Elevation: 6.920 m
Country: Nepal (NP)
Location / Range: Masif Dhaulagiri, Himalaya — ±8,4 km timur laut Dhaulagiri, Provinsi Gandaki (dekat Mustang/Kali Gandaki)
Mountain type: Puncak bergletser di masif Dhaulagiri
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 28.7455, 83.5577
Difficulty: Sangat berat (mountaineering ekspedisi bergletser)
Best Season: April–Mei dan September–Oktober (di luar musim monsun pertengahan Juni–awal Agustus)
Permits & Rules: Puncak ekspedisi berizin; berada di kawasan trek Annapurna/Mustang (izin ACAP untuk pendekatan) dan butuh izin pendakian terpisah
Hazards: Ketinggian ~6.900 m, relief curam (dinding timur naik ~1.550 m dalam 1 km), medan gletser & es, cuaca orografis dengan salju lebat, risiko longsoran

Description

Tukuche Peak (6,920 m) is a glaciated summit in the Dhaulagiri massif of the Nepalese Himalayas, about 8.4 km northeast of Dhaulagiri and roughly 70 km northwest of Pokhara in Gandaki Province. It rises dramatically above the Kali Gandaki Valley — its east face climbs about 1,550 m in one kilometre, and the summit stands roughly 4,370 m above the Gandaki River within less than nine kilometres. Meltwater from its slopes drains to the Gandaki River, a tributary of the Ganges. The first ascent was made on 10 May 1969 by Georges Hartmann, Aloïs Strickler and Sherpa Sonam Girmi; three days later Alfred Hitz and Ruedi Homberger of the same Swiss expedition also reached the top. Under the Köppen classification the area has a tundra climate with snowy winters; the best weather windows for viewing or climbing are April, May, September and October. For Mustang trekkers, Tukuche is one of the iconic peaks seen from Lete, Kalopani and the Kali Gandaki trail.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Jalur pendakian pertama (Ekspedisi Swiss 1969)

Mountaineering es/salju bergletser, ~6.900 m

Ekspedisi berbasis kamp bertingkat

Pendakian pertama Tukuche Peak dilakukan pada 10 Mei 1969 oleh Georges Hartmann, Aloïs Strickler, dan Sherpa Sonam Girmi (ekspedisi Swiss); tiga hari kemudian Alfred Hitz dan Ruedi Homberger dari tim yang sama ikut mencapai puncak. Rute ekspedisi bergletser dengan relief sangat curam—dinding timur naik ~1.550 m dalam 1 km—menuntut kamp bertingkat, teknik es, dan tim berpengalaman.

Pendekatan sisi Mustang / Kali Gandaki (Lete–Kalopani)

Trekking pendekatan (bukan puncak)

Bagian dari trek Mustang (harian)

Basis pendekatan dan titik pandang utama berada di sisi Kali Gandaki—Lete, Kalopani, dan Mustang bawah—yang juga menjadi jalur trek populer. Dari sini Tukuche tampak menjulang bersama Dhaulagiri I; izin ACAP diperlukan untuk trek pendekatan. Jendela cuaca terbaik April–Mei dan September–Oktober.

Climbing Experiences

Tukuche Peak is rarely climbed, but is one of the most prominent Dhaulagiri-massif summits seen from the Kali Gandaki Valley, Lete and Mustang. The videos below highlight the 6,920 m peak and its panoramas and dynamics (including an avalanche capture) from the Mustang side.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.