GUNUNG · Pakistan

Trivor

Trivor / Trivor Sar

Trivor di latar belakang, dilihat dari Aliabad / Trivor in the background, viewed from Aliabad — Imran Shah, CC BY-SA 2.0; foto dipangkas / cropped photograph. Photo: source

Information

Elevation: 7.577 m
Country: Pakistan (PK)
Location / Range: Hispar Muztagh, Karakoram — dekat Lembah Shimshal, Gilgit-Baltistan; di antara Gletser Trivor dan Momhil
Mountain type: Puncak salju & es tinggi — 7000-an terpencil di Hispar Muztagh
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 36.2875, 75.0861
Difficulty: Ekspedisi alpin sangat berat: gletser, punggungan ber-cornice, batu dan es pada ketinggian di atas 7.000 m
Best Season: Juli–Agustus pada ekspedisi historis 1960 dan 1991; bukan jaminan kondisi aman
Permits & Rules: Laporan 1960 mencatat permohonan izin dan liaison officer Pakistan; laporan historis ini tidak menetapkan prosedur atau biaya izin saat ini
Hazards: Rekahan gletser, cornice, salju dalam, cuaca buruk dan medan batu/es; percobaan sisi utara 2023 dibatalkan karena kondisi berbahaya

Description

Trivor is a nonvolcanic peak in Pakistan’s Hispar Muztagh, Karakoram. This profile uses Wikidata’s elevation of 7,577 m; older expedition reports also use 7,728 m. Wilfrid Noyce and Jack Sadler summited on 17 August 1960 after approaching from the Gharesa/Trivor Glacier and following the long northwest ridge. Noyce describes cornices, changing weather and team illness that affected the climb. Toshifumi Onuki records the Japanese expedition’s success in 1991 via the Momhil approach. The 2024 AAJ also documents a north-face attempt in 2023 that ended in retreat; these available reports are not treated as a complete census of ascents.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Punggung Barat Laut dari Gletser Trivor (rute pendakian pertama 1960)

Sangat berat / ekstrem — 7000-an bersalju & terpencil

Ekspedisi berminggu-minggu

Historical 1960 line: from the Gharesa/Trivor Glacier the team gained a col below Momhil Sar, then traversed a long ridge with repeated descents and climbs toward Trivor. Noyce describes cornices, ice traverses and rock sections; six high camps supported the climb. Noyce and Sadler summited on 17 August. This is an expedition reconstruction, not a marked trekking trail or current navigation guide.

Source

Sisi Utara dari Gletser Momhil menyambung Punggung Barat Laut (rute pendakian kedua 1991)

Sangat berat / ekstrem

Ekspedisi berminggu-minggu

Historical 1991 approach: Momhil Glacier → Momhil Sar’s east ridge → ridge junction → col toward Trivor → final high camp → summit. Onuki distinguishes unstable lower rock, a corniced snow ridge and upper technical difficulties. Camp locations are historical observations, not current recommendations.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Six sources bring together the 1960 first ascent, Japan’s successful 1991 expedition and the abandoned 2023 north-face attempt. A book review, biography and regional history remain as contextual reading, rather than separate summit experiences. This archive does not establish the total number of ascents up to the present.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.