GUNUNG · Pakistan

Trivor

ترِووُر (Trivor / Trivor Sar)

Information

Elevation: 7.577 m
Country: Pakistan (PK)
Location / Range: Hispar Muztagh, Karakoram — dekat Lembah Shimshal, Gilgit-Baltistan; di antara Gletser Trivor dan Momhil
Mountain type: Puncak salju & es tinggi — 7000-an terpencil di Hispar Muztagh
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 36.2875, 75.0861
Difficulty: Sangat berat / ekstrem — 7000-an teknis, terpencil, dan sangat jarang didaki (hanya dua pendakian berhasil dalam lebih dari 60 tahun)
Best Season: Juni–Agustus (musim ekspedisi Karakoram)
Permits & Rules: Wajib izin puncak 7000-an dari Gilgit-Baltistan/Pakistan; pendekatan lewat Lembah Shimshal dan Gletser Trivor/Momhil dengan porter & liaison officer
Hazards: Punggung barat laut yang panjang dan terpapar, jurang es, longsoran salju, ketinggian ekstrem, keterpencilan yang menyulitkan evakuasi; medan gletser rumit

Description

Trivor (7,577 m), also called Trivor Sar, is one of the high peaks of the Hispar Muztagh — a subrange of the Karakoram around the Shimshal Valley in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. Its height is sometimes given as 7,728 m, but the figure more consistent with photographic evidence (from a Russian 1:100,000 topographic map) is 7,577 m. Trivor is renowned as a remote, almost never-climbed peak: there have been only two successful ascents in more than six decades. The first ascent was made by a British–American party, with Wilfrid Noyce (UK) and Jack Sadler (USA) reaching the summit on 17 August 1960 via the Trivor Glacier to the high col at the foot of the northwest ridge, which they then followed to the top. One expedition member, Don Whillans, had even shipped his motorbike (a 650cc Triumph) to Pakistan and, after the climb, rode it solo some 7,000 miles from Rawalpindi back to Britain. The second ascent came only in 1991, when Atsushi Endo and Toshifumi Onuki (Japan) reached the summit — this time starting from the north via the Momhil Glacier before joining the northwest ridge. Its remoteness, technical terrain and Karakoram weather keep Trivor among the most rarely climbed 7,000ers in the world.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Punggung Barat Laut dari Gletser Trivor (rute pendakian pertama 1960)

Sangat berat / ekstrem — 7000-an bersalju & terpencil

Ekspedisi berminggu-minggu

The first-ascent route of Trivor. On 17 August 1960 Wilfrid Noyce (UK) and Jack Sadler (USA) reached the summit by climbing from the Trivor Glacier, which runs toward the south-west, gaining the high col at the foot of the northwest ridge and then following that ridge to the top. The route crosses exposed ice and snow at extreme altitude in then almost unmapped terrain. This is not a trekking route but a highly demanding alpine expedition line; Trivor's remoteness makes rescue extremely difficult.

Source

Sisi Utara dari Gletser Momhil menyambung Punggung Barat Laut (rute pendakian kedua 1991)

Sangat berat / ekstrem

Ekspedisi berminggu-minggu

The only other recorded successful route. In 1991 Atsushi Endo and Toshifumi Onuki (Japan) climbed from the north side via the Momhil Glacier, ascending a northeast-facing spur to gain the east ridge of neighbouring Momhil Sar, then descending to the col at the foot of Trivor's northwest ridge and so to the summit. This variation underscores how remote and rarely climbed Trivor is — only two successes in more than six decades.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Trivor is among the rarest-climbed 7,000ers in the world — only two successful ascents in more than six decades. Its 'experiences' are therefore in-depth accounts rather than videos: expedition leader Wilfrid Noyce's first-hand report in the Himalayan Journal, an American Alpine Journal review, an ExplorersWeb archive placing Trivor in the golden age of Karakoram climbing, and Noyce's biography linking his expedition book. All verified live.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.