GUNUNG · India

Trisul

त्रिशूल पर्वत (Trisul)

Puncak Trisul (7.120 m) di Kumaun Himalaya, Uttarakhand. Photo: source

Information

Elevation: 7.120 m
Country: India (IN)
Location / Range: Kumaun Himalaya (Garhwal), gugus Nanda Devi
Mountain type: Puncak orogenik Himalaya (non-vulkanik)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 30.3128, 79.7772
Difficulty: Ekspedisi teknis — pendakian gletser & salju/es curam di atas 6.000 m, paparan ketinggian ekstrem (>7.000 m)
Best Season: Mei–Juni (pra-monsun) dan September–Oktober (pasca-monsun)
Permits & Rules: Izin ekspedisi Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) + izin kawasan penyangga Taman Nasional Nanda Devi
Hazards: Longsoran salju di lereng timur laut, cerukan (crevasse) tersembunyi di Gletser Trisul, cuaca berubah cepat, penyakit ketinggian di kamp tinggi >6.500 m

Description

Trisul is a group of three Himalayan peaks in western Kumaun, Uttarakhand, the highest (Trisul I) reaching 7,120 metres. The three summits resemble a trident — in Sanskrit, trishula is the weapon of the god Shiva. The Trisul group forms the southwest corner of the ring of peaks enclosing the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, about 15 km west-southwest of Nanda Devi. Trisul I holds a landmark place in mountaineering history: on 12 June 1907 it became the first peak over 7,000 metres ever climbed, by an expedition led by Tom Longstaff via the Rishiganga valley and the Trisul Glacier on the northeast flank. That 'highest mountain yet climbed' record stood until 1911. Today Trisul is one of the more accessible 7,000-metre expedition objectives from the Indian side, though it still demands glacier skills and high-altitude endurance.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Lereng Timur Laut → Punggungan Utara (rute normal)

Ekspedisi salju/es teknis — lereng gletser bercelah dan kemiringan salju/es sedang–curam menuju punggungan utara, paparan ketinggian >7.000 m

Ekspedisi total ±24–28 hari; sekitar 10–14 hari aktif dari Base Camp ke puncak termasuk aklimatisasi dan rotasi kamp

Trisul I's normal route follows the line of the 1907 first ascent. The approach goes up the Rishiganga valley to the Trisul Glacier on the mountain's east side, where Base Camp and Advance Base are set. From there climbers ascend the crevassed northeast flank onto the north ridge, then follow the snow/ice ridge to the 7,120 m summit. On 12 June 1907 Tom Longstaff's expedition (with Charles Bruce, Arnold Mumm, Alpine guides the Brocherel brothers and Moritz Inderbinen, and Gurkhas including Karbir Burathoki) made Trisul the first peak over 7,000 m ever climbed — a record that stood until 1911. Best seasons are pre-monsoon (May–June) and post-monsoon (September–October); the main hazards are avalanches on the northeast flank and hidden glacier crevasses.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Trisul I (7,120 m) in the Kumaun Himalaya of Uttarakhand is one of India's most historic 7,000-metre expedition objectives — the first peak over 7,000 m ever climbed by humans (1907). The normal route from the Indian side requires a long trek to a base camp near the Trisul Glacier, staged acclimatisation, then a summit push over snow/ice slopes and the northeast ridge. The links below document real expeditions — from a successful team's footage to an honest account of a weather-defeated attempt — plus operator guides explaining the route, logistics and history. All links verified live.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.