GUNUNG · Swiss

Tödi

Tödi / Piz Russein

Information

Elevation: 3.613 m
Country: Swiss (CH)
Location / Range: Alpen Glarus (Glarner Alpen), di perbatasan kanton Glarus (utara) dan Graubünden (selatan), dekat titik temu dengan kanton Uri
Mountain type: Puncak batuan (sedimen/gamping) berselimut gletser; puncak tertinggi bernama Piz Russein
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 46.8111, 8.9147
Difficulty: Berat (Hochtour bergletser); menuntut keahlian mountaineering — teknik gletser, tali, crampon, dan navigasi rekahan es
Best Season: Akhir musim semi hingga awal musim panas untuk ski-tur; pertengahan musim panas untuk pendakian gletser, saat jembatan salju masih relatif stabil
Permits & Rules: Tanpa izin khusus; basis umum adalah Fridolinshütte (SAC). Sangat disarankan memakai pemandu gunung karena medan gletser berbahaya
Hazards: Rekahan es (crevasse) dan air terjun es di Bifertenfirn (Biferten Glacier), risiko longsoran salju, jembatan salju yang bisa runtuh, cuaca alpine yang cepat berubah, dan eksposur di ketinggian >3.600 m

Description

The Tödi (3,613 m, highest summit Piz Russein) is the highest mountain of the Glarus Alps and the highest peak of the canton of Glarus in eastern Switzerland. It stands on the border of Glarus and Graubünden, near where those cantons meet Uri, and ranks among Europe's most isolated peaks with a prominence of about 1,570 m. Its central massif is enclosed between two glaciers — the Bifertenfirn (Biferten Glacier) to the south-east and the Sand Glacier to the west — making it a classic glaciated ascent (Hochtour) and ski tour rather than an ordinary walk-up. It was first climbed in 1824 by Augustin Bisquolm and Placi Curschellas. The normal route usually starts from the Fridolinshütte (SAC) and crosses the crevassed Bifertenfirn to the summit, demanding full mountaineering skills: rope, crampons, ice axe and glacier navigation. Because of crevasse danger and fast-changing alpine weather, many parties hire a mountain guide.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Rute Normal via Fridolinshütte & Bifertenfirn

Berat (Hochtour bergletser, sekitar PD–PD+); butuh teknik gletser, tali, crampon, kapak es

2 hari (bermalam di Fridolinshütte + hari puncak panjang)

The classic route to the summit Piz Russein (3,613 m). Usually an overnight at the Fridolinshütte (SAC), then a climb past the Grünhornhütte and the 'Gelbe Wand' onto the crevassed, ice-fall-broken Bifertenfirn (Biferten Glacier) and up to the summit snow ridge. It demands full mountaineering skill and glacier navigation; snow bridges and avalanches are the main hazards, so many parties hire a mountain guide.

Source

Ski tour (musim semi) via Fridolinshütte

Ski-mountaineering berat (rating ski Swiss 'S'); tetap butuh crampon/kapak es di bagian puncak

1–2 hari (umumnya bermalam di Fridolinshütte)

A popular spring variant: skinning up the Tödi from Tierfehd/Linthal via the Fridolinshütte, crossing the Bifertenfirn, then topping out over the final rock/snow. Rated hard ('S') for its steep slopes and glacier terrain, it demands avalanche judgement and glacier ski-touring skill.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Climbing the Tödi (3,613 m / Piz Russein) is a glaciated Hochtour, not a walk-up. The normal route usually starts from the Fridolinshütte (SAC) and crosses the crevassed Bifertenfirn (Biferten Glacier) to the summit — demanding rope, crampons, ice axe and glacier navigation. The ski-touring season (late spring) is also popular. The videos below document ascents of the highest peak of the Glarus Alps, including the Fridolinshütte approach and the normal route, showing glacier terrain, snow ridges and summit panoramas.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.