GUNUNG · Pakistan

Tirich Mir

تریچ میر / Terich Mir

Information

Elevation: 7.708 m
Country: Pakistan (PK)
Location / Range: Hindu Kush — Chitral District, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan
Mountain type: Granite & gneiss rock massif — the highest peak of the Hindu Kush and the highest outside the Himalaya-Karakoram range, non-volcanic
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 36.2408, 71.8397
Difficulty: Highly technical and deadly on the technical routes; the normal route (the south face via the Lower Tirich Glacier) is rated strenuous but easier than K2 or Nanga Parbat; the massif has several sub-peaks suitable only for experienced alpinists
Best Season: June–August; the Hindu Kush weather window is usually shorter and more unpredictable than the Karakoram
Permits & Rules: Expedition permit from the Alpine Club of Pakistan; a liaison officer is required; access via overland route from Islamabad through Chitral
Hazards: Avalanches, seracs, and rockfall on the technical routes; unpredictable weather in the Hindu Kush; remoteness — evacuation from Chitral district takes a long time; strong winds on the high ridges

Description

Tirich Mir (7,708 m) is the highest peak of the Hindu Kush range and the highest mountain in the world outside the Himalaya-Karakoram complex, standing in Chitral District, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan. Its name from the Khowar language translates roughly as 'King of Darkness' or 'Lord of the Dark', reflecting the imposing impression of this massive peak that dominates the Chitral skyline. The massif comprises several sub-summits, all serious climbs in their own right: Main (West, 7,708 m), East (7,692 m, first climbed 1964), West I (7,487 m, 1967), West II (7,500 m, 1974), and West III (7,400 m, 1974). The first ascent of the main summit was recorded on 21 July 1950 by a joint Norwegian-British expedition led by Arne Næss, with Per Kvernberg, Henry Berg, and Tony Streather — via the south face route up the Lower Tirich Glacier. In 2023, Japanese alpinists Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima opened a dramatic new route up the 2,200 m north face — a feat recognised as one of the world's finest ascents and awarded the Piolet d'Or 2024. August 2025 marked a historic milestone: Pakistani climbers Sirbaz Khan and Abid Baig summited via a new west face route under KPCTA sponsorship, becoming the first Pakistanis to climb the highest peak on their own soil. The standard approach departs from Chitral town, trekking several days to Base Camp (Babu Camp, ~4,724 m) up the Tirich Valley.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Rute Dinding Utara — Jalur Hiraide-Nakajima 2023 (Piolet d'Or 2024)

Ekstrem (ED+, A3/M7, maks ~90°); dinding setinggi 2.200 m di wajah utara, salah satu pendakian teknis paling menantang yang pernah dilakukan di Hindu Kush

Ekspedisi ±45–60 hari; rute khusus alpinis elit — pendakian itu sendiri berlangsung beberapa hari non-stop (alpine-style)

The route opened by Japanese alpinists Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima in 2023 tackles Tirich Mir's 2,200 m north face — previously considered nearly impossible. Climbed alpine-style (without permanent fixed camps or high-altitude porters), the route breaches rock bands, seracs, and vertical ice requiring advanced aid and mixed climbing skills. The achievement was recognised as one of 2023's finest ascents and awarded the Piolet d'Or 2024 — alpinism's highest distinction. This route is for world-class alpinists only and is not intended for commercial expeditions.

Source

Rute Normal — Wajah Selatan via Gletser Tirich Bawah (rute pertama 1950)

Berat (7000-an, bukan teknis ekstrem di rute normal); es dan salju curam di ketinggian, memerlukan crampon, ice axe, tali, dan kemampuan belay dasar

Ekspedisi ±35–50 hari total (termasuk perjalanan darat Islamabad–Chitral, treking ke Base Camp ±4 hari, aklimatisasi bertahap, kamp tinggi, dan jendela puncak)

The normal Tirich Mir route follows the line pioneered by Arne Næss's Norwegian expedition on 21 July 1950 — the first ascent of the Hindu Kush's highest peak. The approach begins from Chitral city (1,498 m) in Chitral District, KP, reached by road from Islamabad via Peshawar and the Lowari Tunnel (~10–12 hours). From Chitral, 4×4 vehicles or a several-day walk bring teams into the Tirich Valley villages (Shagrom/Zondrangram), the trekking start for Base Camp 'Babu Camp' (~4,724 m) via the Lower Tirich Glacier. From Base Camp, the route ascends through Camp I (~5,800 m), Camp II (~6,400 m), Camp III (~7,000 m), and Camp IV (~7,400 m) before the final summit push. Terrain is steep snow and ice with some rocky sections. The summit push from Camp IV typically takes 8–12 hours. Unlike the crowded 8,000 m commercial season, teams on Tirich Mir are generally national expeditions or experienced mountaineering groups.

Route Segments

1

Chitral → Shagrom/Zondrangram

⏱ 1–2 hari (kendaraan 4x4)

Jalan darat tidak beraspal sepenuhnya, kondisi tergantung musim
2

Shagrom → Base Camp (Babu Camp ~4.724 m)

↑ 2500 m ⏱ 3–4 hari treking 4.724 mdpl
3

Base Camp → Camp I (~5.800 m)

↑ 1076 m ⏱ 1 hari 5.800 mdpl
4

Camp I → Camp II (~6.400 m)

↑ 600 m ⏱ 1 hari 6.400 mdpl
5

Camp II → Camp III (~7.000 m)

↑ 600 m ⏱ 1 hari 7.000 mdpl
6

Camp III → Camp IV (~7.400 m)

↑ 400 m ⏱ 1 hari 7.400 mdpl
7

Camp IV → Puncak (7.708 m) PP

↑ 308 m ⏱ 8–12 jam 7.708 mdpl

Source

Climbing Experiences

Tirich Mir, the highest peak of the Hindu Kush, long lived in the shadow of the more famous 8,000 m giants. Yet its track record is rich in historic expedition tales, extraordinary technical challenges, and now national pride for Pakistan. The videos below document real Tirich Mir expeditions: from the first successful ascent in the 20th century to the long trek toward Babu Base Camp (4,724 m) in the remote Chitral district, and the historic 2025 achievement when Pakistani climbers first raised their flag on the highest peak on their own soil.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.