GUNUNG · Nepal

Tilicho Peak

तिलिचो पर्वत (Tilicho) — puncak di Annapurna Himal di atas Danau Tilicho

Information

Elevation: 7.134 m
Country: Nepal (NP)
Location / Range: Annapurna Himal (Himalaya), Distrik Manang, Area Konservasi Annapurna
Mountain type: Puncak bersalju di Annapurna Himal, di sisi selatan Danau Tilicho
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 28.6844, 83.8044
Difficulty: Sangat sulit — pendakian ekspedisi salju/es teknis di atas 7.000 m (jarang didaki). Kunjungan umum hanya sampai Danau Tilicho (4.919 m) & base camp lewat jalur trekking Sirkuit Annapurna
Best Season: Trek danau: Maret–Mei dan September–November menurut Nepal Hiking Team; kondisi ekspedisi puncak harus dinilai terpisah.
Permits & Rules: Trek danau: izin Area Konservasi Annapurna (ACAP), menurut Nepal Hiking Team. Izin trekking tidak menjadi bukti izin ekspedisi puncak; persyaratan ekspedisi perlu diperiksa terpisah.
Hazards: Trek danau: ketinggian dan lintasan sempit berkerikil lepas/rawan longsor dekat Siri Kharka. Ekspedisi puncak: medan curam dan salju dalam, sebagaimana dicatat ekspedisi 1978.

Description

Tilicho Peak (7,134 m) stands in the Nepalese Himalaya near Annapurna, with Lake Tilicho to its north. Emanuel Schmutz made the first ascent in 1978 by the northwest shoulder. His American Alpine Journal account describes fixed ropes and deep snow. Ang Serky, Dawa Gyalzen and Serky Tshering completed a winter ascent in 1982. The lakeside trek below the mountain is a separate undertaking from a summit expedition.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Rute pendakian puncak — bahu barat laut (northwest shoulder)

Pendakian ekspedisi salju/es teknis >7.000 m; jarang didaki

Ekspedisi 1978: 19 September–22 Oktober dari/balik Dumre; bukan estimasi perjalanan modern

During the 1978 expedition, the team fixed ropes between base camp and Camp I on the northwest shoulder. Schmutz continued alone to the summit after Emin helped break trail. This is a historical route account, not current conditions guidance.

Source

Trek Danau Tilicho (via Sirkuit Annapurna: Manang → Shree Kharka → Tilicho Base Camp → Danau)

Trekking berat ketinggian tinggi — bukan pendakian puncak; ada zona rawan longsor Shree Kharka→Base Camp

4 hari dari Manang kembali ke Manang, setelah aklimatisasi (hari 9–12 itinerari sumber)

From Manang, the route passes Khangsar and Siri Kharka to Tilicho Base Camp over narrow, landslide-prone slopes. The lake visit returns through Siri Kharka to Manang. This is a lake trek, not a summit route.

Source

Climbing Experiences

The five videos concern trekking to Lake Tilicho below the mountain, rather than documenting summit ascents. The collection also includes Emanuel Schmutz’s firsthand account of the 1978 summit expedition. It distinguishes the lake journey from technical mountaineering.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.