GUNUNG · Nepal

Tilicho Peak

तिलिचो पर्वत (Tilicho) — puncak di Annapurna Himal di atas Danau Tilicho

Information

Elevation: 7.134 m
Country: Nepal (NP)
Location / Range: Annapurna Himal (Himalaya), Distrik Manang, Area Konservasi Annapurna
Mountain type: Puncak bersalju di Annapurna Himal, di sisi selatan Danau Tilicho
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 28.6844, 83.8044
Difficulty: Sangat sulit — pendakian ekspedisi salju/es teknis di atas 7.000 m (jarang didaki). Kunjungan umum hanya sampai Danau Tilicho (4.919 m) & base camp lewat jalur trekking Sirkuit Annapurna
Best Season: Trekking Danau Tilicho: Maret–Mei & September–November. Ekspedisi puncak: musim pra/pasca-monsun, tergantung kondisi salju
Permits & Rules: Untuk trekking wajib TIMS card + izin Area Konservasi Annapurna (ACAP). Ekspedisi puncak butuh royalti & izin pendakian dari pemerintah Nepal
Hazards: Ketinggian ekstrem & risiko AMS/HAPE/HACE, longsoran salju di sisi jalur Tilicho (zona rawan longsor antara Shree Kharka–Base Camp), lereng es curam di puncak, cuaca cepat berubah

Description

Tilicho Peak (7,134 m) is a snow peak in the Annapurna Himal of Manang District, Nepal, rising directly on the south side of Lake Tilicho (4,919 m) — one of the highest-altitude lakes in the world. It was first seen by Europeans in 1950 by members of Maurice Herzog's French Annapurna expedition while searching for a route to Annapurna I. The first ascent was made in 1978 by French climber Emanuel Schmutz via the northwest shoulder, followed by a 1982 winter ascent by a Sherpa team (Ang Serky, Dawa Gyalzen, Serky Tshering) believed to be the first all-Sherpa mountaineering expedition. The summit itself is rarely climbed and demands technical snow and ice skills. For most visitors the draw is the trek to Lake Tilicho — a celebrated but demanding variation of the Annapurna Circuit that crosses landslide-prone slopes from Shree Kharka to Tilicho Base Camp before climbing to the blue glacial lake at the mountain's northern foot.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Rute pendakian puncak — bahu barat laut (northwest shoulder)

Pendakian ekspedisi salju/es teknis >7.000 m; jarang didaki

Ekspedisi multi-minggu (berkemah tinggi)

Jalur pendakian puncak bersejarah: pendakian pertama 1978 oleh Emanuel Schmutz lewat bahu barat laut, diikuti pendakian musim dingin 1982 oleh tim Sherpa. Menuntut kemampuan glasial penuh, kemah ketinggian, dan penanganan risiko longsoran serta lereng es curam. Bukan tujuan trekking umum.

Source

Trek Danau Tilicho (via Sirkuit Annapurna: Manang → Shree Kharka → Tilicho Base Camp → Danau)

Trekking berat ketinggian tinggi — bukan pendakian puncak; ada zona rawan longsor Shree Kharka→Base Camp

± 3–4 hari sisipan dari Manang (pulang-pergi ke danau)

Jalur non-teknis paling populer untuk melihat Tilicho Peak dari dekat. Dari Manang, trekker menuju Khangsar lalu Shree Kharka, menyeberangi lereng rawan longsor menuju Tilicho Base Camp (±4.150 m), lalu mendaki ke Danau Tilicho (4.919 m) di kaki utara gunung. Aklimatisasi penting; start dini disarankan untuk menghindari batu/longsor dan angin siang. Umumnya digabung sebagai variasi Sirkuit Annapurna.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Because the Tilicho summit (7,134 m) is a rarely-done technical climb, nearly all visitor footage centres on the trek to Lake Tilicho (4,919 m) at the mountain's northern foot. These videos show the approach via the Annapurna Circuit — Manang, Shree Kharka, the landslide-prone traverse to Tilicho Base Camp, then the climb to the blue glacial lake beneath Tilicho Peak's icy walls. Tone ranges from a documentary on the trail's beauty and danger to Nepali trekking-operator logs.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.