GUNUNG · Nepal

Tharpu Chuli

थर्पू चुली / Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak)

Information

Elevation: 5.663 m
Country: Nepal (NP)
Location / Range: Annapurna Sanctuary, Annapurna Himal, Gandaki, Nepal
Mountain type: Puncak pendakian non-vulkanik (batuan Himalaya orogenik) di jantung Annapurna Sanctuary; dahulu terdaftar sebagai 'trekking peak' Nepal Mountaineering Association
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 28.5617, 83.8903
Difficulty: PD (Peu Difficile) — dianggap lebih mudah dari sesama trekking peak Sanctuary (Hiunchuli & Singu Chuli), namun tetap butuh perlengkapan ice climbing, crampon, dan ice axe; snow/ice slope hingga ~45° menjelang puncak
Best Season: Oktober–November (musim gugur) dan Maret–Mei (musim semi); hindari monsun (Juni–September) dan cuaca dingin ekstrem pertengahan musim dingin
Permits & Rules: Berada di dalam Kawasan Konservasi Annapurna (ACAP) — izin ACAP wajib. Tharpu Chuli dulunya memerlukan izin trekking peak NMA (sekitar USD 350 per tim ≤4 orang), namun sejak 2017 dikeluarkan dari daftar Trekking Peak resmi NMA sehingga status perizinan pendakiannya berubah; konfirmasikan aturan terkini melalui operator berlisensi.
Hazards: Ketinggian (risiko AMS/HAPE/HACE di atas 5.000 m); crevasse dan snow bridge di gletser Sanctuary; lereng es curam menjelang puncak; risiko longsoran salju setelah hujan salju; cuaca berubah cepat dan kabut yang menutup jalur; suhu dingin ekstrem di high camp

Description

Tharpu Chuli (5,663 m), better known as Tent Peak, sits in a central position within the Annapurna Sanctuary — the dramatic glacial basin ringed by the huge walls of Annapurna I, Annapurna South, Machapuchare, and Hiunchuli. Its summit delivers a 360° panorama across that entire mountain amphitheatre. Compared with its two Sanctuary neighbours, Hiunchuli and Singu Chuli, Tharpu Chuli is considered the easier climb, though it still requires glacier travel skills and ice equipment (crampons, ice axe, ropes). Its approach coincides with the popular Annapurna Base Camp trek: climbers follow the Modi Khola past Chhomrong, Deurali, and Machapuchare Base Camp into the Sanctuary, then set a base/high camp on moraine slopes for a pre-dawn summit push. Formerly listed as a Nepal Mountaineering Association trekking peak, Tharpu Chuli was removed from that official list in 2017. Its relatively friendly access via the Sanctuary trek combined with superb summit views makes it a favourite first Himalayan snow climb.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Rute Normal via Annapurna Sanctuary & High Camp (North-West Slopes)

PD (Peu Difficile) — snow/ice slope hingga ~45°, glacier travel, crampon & ice axe wajib; fixed rope dapat dipasang pada bagian tercuram menjelang puncak

Summit day ~7–10 jam pulang-pergi dari high camp; total ekspedisi ~13–16 hari dari Pokhara termasuk trek Sanctuary

The standard Tharpu Chuli route follows the Annapurna Base Camp trek first: from Pokhara to Nayapul/Ghandruk, up the Modi Khola through Chhomrong, Bamboo, Deurali, and Machapuchare Base Camp into the Annapurna Sanctuary. From inside the Sanctuary, climbers move to a Tharpu Chuli base camp and then a high camp on moraine slopes at the foot of the peak. The summit push starts pre-dawn, donning crampons at the glacier's edge and climbing snow and ice slopes up to ~45° onto the north-west ridge; the steepest section near the top may be secured with a fixed rope by the guiding team. The summit (5,663 m) gives a 360° panorama of Annapurna I (8,091 m), Annapurna South, Machapuchare, Hiunchuli, and Gangapurna. Descent follows the same line back to high camp.

Route Segments

1

Machapuchare Base Camp → Annapurna Sanctuary → Tharpu Chuli Base Camp

⏱ 1 hari 4.200 mdpl

Masuk cekungan Sanctuary; base camp di lereng morain di dalam amfiteater Annapurna
2

Base Camp → High Camp

⏱ 3–5 jam 5.000 mdpl

Naik lereng morain dan salju ke high camp di kaki puncak
3

High Camp → Puncak

⏱ 4–6 jam 5.663 mdpl

Glacier travel lalu snow/ice slope ~45° ke punggungan barat laut; awas crevasse dan longsoran

Source

Climbing Experiences

Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak, 5,663 m) stands at the heart of the Annapurna Sanctuary and is often a climber's first snow ascent when arriving via the Annapurna Base Camp trek. The videos and reports below capture real experiences: the Sanctuary approach, high camp, the ice slopes toward the summit, and the 360° panorama of Annapurna I, Machapuchare, and Hiunchuli. All links are verified live.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.