GUNUNG · Nepal

Thamserku

थामसेर्कु / Thamserku

Information

Elevation: 6.623 m
Country: Nepal (NP)
Location / Range: Himalaya, kawasan Khumbu (Taman Nasional Sagarmatha), Provinsi Koshi, Nepal timur — menjulang di sebelah timur Namche Bazaar
Mountain type: Puncak batu-es Himalaya (non-vulkanik) di Khumbu; terhubung punggung ke Kangtega
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 27.7903, 86.7875
Difficulty: Sangat teknis: couloir curam, punggung es-batu, dan medan alpine penuh; hanya untuk pendaki berpengalaman. Puncaknya jarang dicoba, sementara publik umumnya hanya menikmati panoramanya dari jalur trek Everest (EBC).
Best Season: Laporan historis mendokumentasikan pendakian Oktober–November 1964 dan April–Mei 2014; ini bukan jaminan kondisi atau rekomendasi musim saat ini.
Permits & Rules: Persyaratan izin terkini tidak ditetapkan oleh laporan pendakian historis yang dirujuk; konfirmasikan akses ekspedisi dan kawasan Khumbu kepada otoritas Nepal sebelum berangkat.
Hazards: Laporan ekspedisi mencatat es curam, cornice pada punggung, medan mixed dan spindrift; perjalanan turun juga memerlukan pemanjatan teknis dan rappel. Laporan 1999 mencatat jatuhan es dari serac serta penurunan malam dalam kabut.

Description

Thamserku is a non-volcanic Khumbu peak in Nepal, east of Namche Bazaar and linked by a ridge to Kangtega. Wikidata lists 6,623 m, while the 2015 American Alpine Journal report uses 6,618 m. The first ascent followed the south ridge on 4 November 1964. Alexander Gukov and Alexey Lonchinskiy established Shy Girl on the southwest face in 2014. Views from the Everest trail should not be confused with a walkable route to its summit. In April 1999, Carles Vallés and Joan Quintana climbed the Millennium Catalonian Route on the northeast face and descended the same wall.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Millennium Catalonian Route — dinding timur laut (1999)

VI, ice 5+, M5 (laporan / report)

25–27 April 1999 (catatan ekspedisi / expedition record)

A historic 1,600 m northeast-face line through the central couloir and a passage right of the serac. Vallés and Quintana returned down the same wall. Duration and grade describe the 1999 expedition, not a present-day schedule.

Source

Punggung Selatan via couloir (rute pendakian pertama 1964)

Alpine sulit (couloir curam + punggung terekspos)

Ekspedisi multi-hari dari base camp di sisi selatan

Historic 1964 line: a couloir to the south ridge, then steep ice and a corniced crest. The report dates base camp to 15 October and the summit to 4 November; this is not a duration estimate for present-day teams.

Source

Shy Girl — dinding barat daya (2014)

Russian 6A/6B; M4–M5 dan A2 (laporan 2014)

27 April–3 Mei 2014 hingga puncak; turun sesudahnya

The 2014 line follows the central spur left of the Spanish attempt couloir. This is technical alpine climbing; dates and grades describe that expedition.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Firsthand accounts from 1964, 1999 and 2014 document three distinct technical lines on Thamserku. Scenery videos and an Everest trek itinerary provide regional context, rather than proof of reaching the summit.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.