GUNUNG · Nepal
Thamserku
थामसेर्कु / Thamserku
Source
Photo: source
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Source: Open-Meteo
Information
- Elevation
- 6.623 m
- Country
- Nepal (NP)
- Location / Range
- Himalaya, kawasan Khumbu (Taman Nasional Sagarmatha), Provinsi Koshi, Nepal timur — menjulang di sebelah timur Namche Bazaar
- Mountain type
- Puncak batu-es Himalaya (non-vulkanik) di Khumbu; terhubung punggung ke Kangtega
- Volcanic?
- No (non-volcanic)
- Coordinates
- 27.7903, 86.7875
- Difficulty
- Sangat teknis: couloir curam, punggung es-batu, dan medan alpine penuh; hanya untuk pendaki berpengalaman. Puncaknya jarang dicoba, sementara publik umumnya hanya menikmati panoramanya dari jalur trek Everest (EBC).
- Best Season
- Musim pra-monsun (April–Mei) dan pasca-monsun (Oktober–November); trek pemandangan sepanjang jalur Everest paling nyaman pada periode yang sama.
- Permits & Rules
- Pendakian puncak memerlukan izin ekspedisi dari pemerintah Nepal (dikelola lewat operator berlisensi) plus tiket masuk Taman Nasional Sagarmatha; trek pemandangan di kawasan Khumbu cukup dengan izin TIMS/permit lokal dan tiket taman nasional.
- Hazards
- Longsoran salju dan serac di couloir, batu lepas, punggung terekspos, cuaca Himalaya yang cepat berubah, serta risiko ketinggian di atas 6.000 m.
Description
Thamserku (about 6,623 m) is one of the most photogenic peaks of the Khumbu region in eastern Nepal — rising sharply to the east of Namche Bazaar and just north of Kusum Kangguru, linked by a long ridge running eastward to Kangtega. Its steep, ice-clad pyramid is an iconic backdrop for the thousands of trekkers walking toward Everest Base Camp, even though the summit itself is very rarely climbed. The first ascent came in 1964 by members of Edmund Hillary's 'Schoolhouse Expedition' — Lynn Crawford, Pete Farrell, John McKinnon and Richard Stewart — who climbed from the south, forcing a difficult couloir to reach the south ridge; the team called the climb hard and the route has never been repeated in full. In 2014 Russian climbers Alexander Gukov and Alexey Lonchinskiy made the first ascent of the southwest face. Geologically Thamserku is a non-volcanic Himalayan rock-and-ice peak, not a volcano.
Gallery
Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.
Routes
Dinding Barat Daya (pendakian pertama 2014)
Teknis tinggi (dinding es-batu)In 2014, Russian climbers Alexander Gukov and Alexey Lonchinskiy made the first ascent of Thamserku's southwest face — a technical line up the steep face, adding to the short list of routes on this rarely climbed peak.
SourcePunggung Selatan via couloir (rute pendakian pertama 1964)
Alpine sulit (couloir curam + punggung terekspos)The first-ascent route opened in 1964 by Edmund Hillary's 'Schoolhouse Expedition'. From the basin below the southwest face, the team climbed a difficult couloir to gain the south ridge, then followed it to the summit. They described it as a very hard climb, and the route has never been repeated in full — underlining Thamserku's technical character.
SourceClimbing Experiences
Thamserku is rarely climbed to its summit, so most footage is of technical expedition attempts and — far more often — its ice-clad rock tower admired from the Everest trekking trail near Namche Bazaar. The clips below mix expedition footage, local climber vlogs, and trekkers' viewpoints.
References
The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.