GUNUNG · India
Thalay Sagar
थलय सागर / Thalay Sagar
Source
Photo: source
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Source: Open-Meteo
Information
- Elevation
- 6.904 m
- Country
- India (IN)
- Location / Range
- Kelompok Gangotri, Garhwal Himalaya barat, negara bagian Uttarakhand, India — di punggung selatan Gletser Gangotri, dekat danau Kedartal
- Mountain type
- Puncak batu granit terjal (non-vulkanik), kelompok Gangotri di Garhwal Himalaya
- Volcanic?
- No (non-volcanic)
- Coordinates
- 30.8581, 78.9972
- Difficulty
- Ekstrem/teknis tinggi — dinding batu dan es curam di segala sisi, dengan 'shale band' batu rapuh dekat puncak; termasuk objek panjat alpine kelas dunia (beberapa rute meraih Piolet d'Or). Bukan gunung trekking.
- Best Season
- Pra-monsun (Mei–Juni) dan pasca-monsun (September–Oktober); trek pendekatan ke Kedartal umumnya Mei–Juni & September–Oktober.
- Permits & Rules
- Wajib izin pendakian dari Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) untuk puncak; kawasan berada di zona pegunungan Uttarakhand — pendaki asing biasanya melalui operator terdaftar. Foreigner dulunya dilarang masuk Garhwal hingga akhir 1970-an.
- Hazards
- Batu rapuh (shale band) dekat puncak, longsoran salju bubuk, serac, dinding sangat terekspos, dan cuaca Himalaya yang keras — banyak percobaan gagal atau menelan korban.
Description
Thalay Sagar (6,904 m) is a dramatic rock peak in the Gangotri Group of the western Garhwal Himalayas, in the Indian state of Uttarakhand — set on the main ridge south of the Gangotri Glacier, about 10 km southwest of Gaumukh (the sacred source of the Bhagirathi River). Though it is the second-highest peak on the glacier's south side after Kedarnath, its fame rests on its shape: a steep-on-all-sides rock tower with the lake Kedartal at its foot — a coveted prize for mountaineers. For military and geopolitical reasons foreign climbers were barred from most of Garhwal until the late 1970s; the first ascent came on 24 June 1979 via the northwest couloir and ridge, then across the North Face shale band, by an Anglo-American team of Roy Kligfield, John Thackray and Pete Thexton. At least 15 ascents by 9 different routes have since been recorded, with the North Face alone climbed by five lines. The key difficulty on the direct routes is a notorious band of rotten shale near the summit. The Australian Route by Andrew Lindblade and Athol Whimp — 1,400 m of climbing graded VII 5.9 WI5, driving straight through the shale band — was awarded the Piolet d'Or in 1999. The first Indian ascent was made by Basanta Singha Roy (MAK, West Bengal) with three sherpas in 2008, and the first woman to summit, Tusi Das of Kolkata, reached the top on 22 July 2012.
Gallery
Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.
Routes
Couloir & Punggung Barat Laut lalu shale band Dinding Utara (rute pendakian pertama 1979)
Alpine teknis tinggi (couloir + shale band rapuh)The first-ascent route of Thalay Sagar, 24 June 1979, by the Anglo-American team of Roy Kligfield, John Thackray and Pete Thexton. It climbs the northwest couloir and ridge, then crosses the North Face 'shale band' — a rotten, dangerous layer of shale — before reaching the summit. It set the reference for many later lines.
SourceRute Australia — Dinding Utara langsung (Piolet d'Or 1999)
VII 5.9 WI5 — ±1.400 m panjatanPioneered by Andrew Lindblade and Athol Whimp, the Australian Route was the first line to climb directly through the shale band rather than finishing on a ridge. With about 1,400 m of climbing graded VII 5.9 WI5, it was awarded the 1999 Piolet d'Or and stands as a modern-alpinism test piece on Thalay Sagar's North Face.
SourceClimbing Experiences
Thalay Sagar is a rock tower that hosts world-class alpine climbing and forms a spectacular backdrop for the trek to Kedartal lake. The footage below spans a historic expedition film, notes on avalanche danger, and trekkers' viewpoints at the mountain's foot.
References
The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.