GUNUNG · Swiss

Täschhorn

Information

Elevation: 4.491 m
Country: Swiss (CH)
Location / Range: Alpen Pennine — kelompok Mischabel
Mountain type: Puncak batuan-es tinggi (4000-an Alpen, kelompok Mischabel)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 46.0836, 7.8572
Difficulty: Sangat sulit (tidak ada rute mudah; salah satu 4000-an tersulit di Alpen)
Best Season: Pertengahan Juni–September (musim alpine)
Permits & Rules: Tidak perlu izin; pendakian berbasis bivak Mischabeljoch/kabin Zermatt–Randa–Täsch. Sangat disarankan memakai pemandu gunung.
Hazards: Punggungan tereksposur dan sering ber-cornice, medan campuran es-batu, ketinggian >4400 m, cuaca cepat memburuk, jalur bivak yang sulit dicapai; risiko tinggi pada traverse ke Dom.

Description

The Täschhorn (4,491 m) is a high rock-and-ice peak in the Pennine Alps of Switzerland, part of the Mischabel chain above the Zermatt valley. There are no easy routes to its summit, and it ranks among the ten most difficult 4,000-metre peaks in the Alps — described as "one of the highest, finest and least accessible 4000m mountains". It stands immediately north of the Alphubel and south of the Dom (the highest peak entirely within Switzerland), and closely resembles the Dom when seen from the upper Zermatt valley. The first ascent was on 30 July 1862 by John Llewelyn Davies and J. W. Hayward with guides Stefan and Johann Zumtaugwald and Peter-Josef Summermatter, via the north-west (Kin Face) route with a midnight start from Randa. The modern normal route follows the south-south-east ridge (Mischabelgrat) from the Mischabeljoch bivouac, while the Täschhorn–Dom traverse is remembered as one of the most demanding grandes courses in the Alps.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Kin Face (dinding barat-laut) — rute pendakian pertama

Alpine sulit (rute es/campuran bersejarah)

Sepanjang hari (rute panjang, teknis)

The route of the first ascent on 30 July 1862 by John Llewelyn Davies and J. W. Hayward with guides, starting at midnight from Randa. It climbs the north-west glacier tongue (the Kin Face) — long and technical, and today far less travelled than the normal Mischabelgrat.

Source

Mischabelgrat (punggungan selatan-tenggara) — rute normal

AD (assez difficile) — alpine sulit

± 4–5 jam dari bivak Mischabeljoch ke puncak

The standard route on the Täschhorn. It starts from the relatively inaccessible Mischabeljoch bivouac, then follows the exposed, often corniced ridge crest to the summit. Graded AD, it usually takes 4–5 hours up; descent back to the Mischabeljoch takes 3.5–4 hours. It demands competence on mixed terrain and management of cornices and exposure.

Source

Traverse Täschhorn–Dom

Grande course sangat menuntut (D dan seterusnya)

± 4–6 jam dari puncak Täschhorn ke puncak Dom

The link from the summit of the Täschhorn to the Dom via the Domjoch and the Dom's south ridge (Domgrat). Alpine guide Martin Moran called it a "magnificent traverse" and "one of the most demanding grandes courses in the Alps". With no easy way off and at high altitude, it is easily affected by ice and snow in bad weather; for experienced alpinists only.

Source

Climbing Experiences

The Täschhorn is rarely climbed on its own; most experiences are recorded as part of a Mischabel ridge traverse — above all the serious Täschhorn–Dom traverse regarded as one of the hardest grandes courses in the Alps. The clips below cover ascents of the south-east ridge to the summit and the link to the Dom, showing the exposed ridges, mixed ice-and-rock terrain and altitude above 4,400 m.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.