GUNUNG · Nepal

Taboche

Taboche / Tawoche / Tobuche / Taweche

Information

Elevation: 6.501 m
Country: Nepal (NP)
Location / Range: Mahalangur Himal, kawasan Khumbu, Nepal — di seberang Sungai Imja dari Ama Dablam, di atas desa Pheriche & Dingboche, tersambung ke Cholatse lewat punggung panjang
Mountain type: Puncak pegunungan (non-vulkanik, batuan & es Himalaya)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 27.8975, 86.7792
Difficulty: Sangat sulit (6.000-an teknis, dinding es-batu curam); jarang didaki
Best Season: Musim semi (April–Mei) dan musim gugur (Oktober–November)
Permits & Rules: Izin pendakian dari Department of Tourism Nepal / Nepal Mountaineering Association; pendekatan lewat trek Everest Base Camp via Pheriche/Dingboche
Hazards: Dinding es-batu curam dan campuran (mixed), runtuhan batu & es, punggung terpapar, cuaca cepat berubah, dan ketinggian di atas 6.000 m

Description

Taboche (6,501 m; also spelled Tawoche, Tobuche or Taweche) is a dramatic peak in the Khumbu region of the Nepalese Himalaya. It stands directly across the Imja River from Ama Dablam, towering above the villages of Pheriche and Dingboche, and is connected to Cholatse by a long ridge. Its first ascent was made in 1974 by a French expedition led by Yannick Seigneur. Taboche is not a trekking peak — its steep faces make it a rarely-attempted technical objective — yet its soaring west face is one of the most striking backdrops for walkers on the Everest Base Camp trail. Its north buttress was first climbed only in 2015 via hard mixed climbing.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

North Buttress (dinding utara) — jalur campuran teknis

Ekstrem (mixed M5–6, paparan sangat tinggi)

±5 hari di dinding (gaya alpine), di atas ekspedisi berminggu-minggu

Taboche's previously unclimbed north buttress was first ascended in November 2015 by Skiy DeTray and Justin Griffin over five days of sustained M5–6 mixed climbing. Tragically, Griffin died in a fall while descending from the summit plateau. This is an extreme alpine objective for very experienced mixed climbers only, and underlines the mountain's real dangers.

Source

Rute pendakian pertama (1974) — ekspedisi Prancis

Sangat sulit (6.000-an teknis, es-batu curam)

Ekspedisi ±3–4 minggu (termasuk trek pendekatan lewat Pheriche/Dingboche & aklimatisasi)

Taboche was first climbed in 1974 by a French expedition led by Yannick Seigneur, with a summit team including Louis Dubost, Paul Gendre and Jacques Brugirard. This is not a trekking line: climbers approach via the Everest Base Camp trail through Pheriche/Dingboche, then take on steep rock-and-ice terrain to the 6,501 m summit. Main hazards include rock/ice fall, exposed ridges and high altitude.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Taboche (6,501 m), a technical Khumbu peak facing Ama Dablam and towering above Pheriche and Dingboche. The sources below capture real experiences around Taboche — from expedition footage on its rock-and-ice terrain and the tragic first ascent of its North Buttress, to views of its west face from the Everest Base Camp trail.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.