GUNUNG · Indonesia

Sumantri

Puncak Sumantri

Source

Information

Elevation: 4.870 m
Country: Indonesia (ID)
Coordinates: -4.0596, 137.1748

Description

sharp mountain in the western Sudirman Range (New Guinea)

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Carstensz Base Camp (Yellow Valley) → Sumantri (arah timur laut)

Sangat berat — scrambling batu, medan bergletser sisa (butuh crampon), diakhiri panjat batu kelas 4; izin wilayah terbatas Papua

+570 m ±8–9 jam pulang-pergi dari base camp (dalam rangkaian ekspedisi Carstensz beberapa hari)

Sumantri is almost always climbed as an added summit from Carstensz Base Camp (~4,300 m) at Yellow Valley or the lake base camp, heading northeast. The route combines rock scrambling, crossing remnant glacier terrain (Northwall Firn) that requires crampons, and finishing with exposed class-4 rock climbing to the top (~4,870 m). It is usually combined with Puncak Jaya in a single 'double summit' expedition. Equatorial weather changes fast; permits from the Amungme/Dani communities and an authorized operator are required.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Sumantri (~4,870 m) is a summit on the northern side of the Carstensz massif, Sudirman Range, Central Papua — about 2 km northeast of Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya). Its northwest top was first climbed in February 1962 by Heinrich Harrer's party shortly after the first ascent of Carstensz, and it was renamed in 1973 for Minister Sumantri Brodjonegoro. With the loss of the Meren Glacier its prominence rose (~350–366 m), briefly making it one of Oceania's second-highest independent peaks. Sumantri is almost always climbed as an added summit within a Carstensz Pyramid expedition — the route mixes rock scrambling, remnant glacier terrain (crampons needed) and exposed rock climbing to the top.