GUNUNG · Norwegia

Store Skagastølstind

Store Skagastølstind (Storen)

Information

Elevation: 2.406 m
Country: Norwegia (NO)
Location / Range: Hurrungane, Jotunheimen
Mountain type: Puncak tertinggi ketiga Norwegia/Skandinavia; menara batu di pegunungan Hurrungane, Jotunheimen
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 61.4614, 7.8714
Difficulty: Alpine — puncak tak bisa dicapai tanpa memanjat; couloir kelas 3–3+ (skala Norwegia) plus penyeberangan gletser
Best Season: Juli–September saat gletser lebih stabil dan couloir sebagian bebas salju
Permits & Rules: Tidak ada izin khusus; sebagian besar pendaki memakai pemandu karena panjatan teknis dan gletser bercelah
Hazards: Celah gletser menuju Bandet, batu lepas di dalam couloir, medan terekspos, dan hari pendakian sangat panjang (naik-turun bisa ~14 jam)

Description

Store Skagastølstind (2,406 m), familiarly "Storen", is the third-highest mountain in Norway and Scandinavia and the crown of the Hurrungane range in Jotunheimen. Unlike other Norwegian summits reachable on foot, Storen is a rock tower whose top can only be reached by climbing. The classic route is a long walk from Turtagrø (about 900 m of ascent), up the valley and across a crevassed glacier to "Bandet" at around 1,700 m, before climbing a couloir — either Andrews renne, used on the 1899 first ascent by A. W. Andrews and party, or Heftyes renne — graded class 3 to 3+ on the Norwegian scale. A round trip of roughly 14 hours is normal, so many climbers hire a guide.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Andrews renne (rute pendakian pertama 1899)

Kelas 3+ (skala Norwegia)

Beberapa panjang tali dari Bandet

Andrews renne (Andrew's couloir) is the route used on the first ascent of Storen by A. W. Andrews and party in 1899. The couloir begins slightly below "Hjørnet" and runs northeast from the centre of the southwest face up to the pass separating the summit from the front top. It is rated class 3+ on the Norwegian scale — about three rope lengths (~120 m) that gets steeper and more exposed, with adequate holds but loose rock to watch for.

Source

Rute normal via Bandet & Heftyes renne

Kelas 3 (skala Norwegia) + gletser

~14 jam pergi-pulang dari Turtagrø

The most commonly used route today is a long walk from Turtagrø (about 900 m of ascent), up the valley and across a crevassed glacier to "Bandet" at around 1,700 m, before climbing Heftyes renne to the summit. The climb is several rope lengths on exposed terrain; a round trip of roughly 14 hours is normal. It requires glacier skills, rope, and protection; many climbers use a guide.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Accounts of Storen stress that it is a climb, not a walk: the long approach from Turtagrø, the glacier crossing to Bandet, and the class 3–3+ couloir to the summit. Many go with a guide; some document winter attempts and the more ambitious Skagastøls traverse.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.