GUNUNG · Slovenia

Škrlatica

Škrlatica (dahulu disebut Suhi plaz)

Škrlatica (2.740 m), Alpen Julian, Slovenia (foto: Žiga, 27 Maret 2004, domain publik via Wikimedia Commons). Photo: source

Information

Elevation: 2.740 m
Country: Slovenia (SI)
Location / Range: Kelompok Martuljek–Škrlatica, Alpen Julian, Taman Nasional Triglav
Mountain type: Puncak batu gamping Alpen Julian (non-vulkanik), berdiri di punggungan panjang menyerupai tirai batu
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 46.4300, 13.8200
Difficulty: Berat. Kelima jalur bertanda yang didaftar hribi.net semuanya bergrade "zelo zahtevna označena pot" — jalur bertanda sangat menuntut, artinya ada bagian berpengaman kabel baja dan pin besi yang wajib dilewati dengan helm plus set self-belay via ferrata. Dinding puncaknya sekitar 350–400 m memanjat dengan pijakan sempit dan pengaman yang justru jarang di beberapa bagian. Beban utamanya kebugaran: tidak ada pondok dekat puncak, sehingga sebagian besar pendaki menempuh naik-turun hampir 2.000 m ketinggian dalam satu hari. Traverse punggungan Mali Oltar sudah masuk kategori pendakian alpinis (sekitar 14 jam 30 menit), bukan jalur bertanda.
Best Season: Juli–Oktober. Pada Juni ladang salju curam biasanya masih tersisa. Di musim dingin kabel dan pin terkubur salju-es dan gunung ini berubah jadi objek alpinisme sampai grade IV. Berangkat pagi buta dianjurkan karena sisi selatan memanggang di bawah matahari, dan SummitPost mencatat Škrlatica lebih sering tertutup awan dibanding puncak Alpen Julian mana pun — awan biasanya menumpuk cepat di siang hari musim panas.
Permits & Rules: Tidak ada tiket masuk untuk Taman Nasional Triglav; biaya hanya untuk parkir di titik-titik tertentu. Menginap tersedia di Aljažev dom v Vratih (1.015 m, buka Mei–akhir Oktober, sekitar 150 tempat tidur, ada kamar musim dingin 8 tempat), Bivak IV na Rušju (1.980 m, bivak tak berpenjaga, selalu terbuka, 10 tempat, ada penampung air), Koča v Krnici (1.113 m, 20 tempat, buka 1 Mei–31 Oktober), dan Pogačnikov dom na Kriških podih (2.050 m, 67 tempat plus 16 di kamar musim dingin, buka 1 Juli–akhir September).
Hazards: Tidak ada sumber air dan tidak ada pondok di sepanjang jalur Vrata maupun Ruski križ — panduan V naravo menyarankan membawa 4 liter air atau lebih. Bagian berpengaman sempit dan pada akhir pekan padat dua arah; satu pendaki mencatat turunnya justru lebih lama daripada naik karena harus terus berpapasan. Medan sipi (scree) di Zadnji Dolek dan di bawah bivak longgar dan rawan batu jatuh dari rombongan di atas. Beberapa bagian dinding puncak minim kabel sehingga terpapar tanpa pengaman. Kabut cepat datang dan menutup orientasi; laporan pendaki menyebut pandangan ke Razor dan Mangart hilang total dalam hitungan menit. Perlengkapan wajib musim panas: helm dan set self-belay; musim dingin tambah kapak es dan crampon.

Description

Škrlatica (2,740 m) is Slovenia's second-highest mountain and the third-highest in the Julian Alps, standing inside Triglav National Park as the highest summit of the Martuljek–Škrlatica group. Its name derives from the older form Škriljatica, from škril, "stone slab" — roughly "the mountain of many slabs". Its archaic name, Suhi plaz, refers to the dry avalanche terrain below the Spodnji Rokav ridge. Despite its height its prominence is "only" 982 m, because the summit sits atop a long ridge that stretches away like a curtain of rock. SummitPost describes it as a fortress mountain more reminiscent of the Dolomites than of the Julian Alps generally: the north-west side drops some 1,600 m into the Krnica valley behind a 700 m face, while the south-east side falls about 1,700 m into the Vrata valley over some 600 m of broken cliffs. The Martuljek group is the wildest corner of the Julian Alps — of its many peaks only Škrlatica, Dolkova špica and Špik carry marked paths; the rest is pure alpinist terrain. Its neighbours are Dolkova špica (2,591 m), Visoki Rokav (2,646 m), Spodnji Rokav (2,500 m), Rakova špica (2,545 m) and Rogljica (2,547 m), with the scree basins of Zadnji Dolek and V Kotlu between them. The first recorded ascent was on 24 August 1880 by Julius Kugy with two Trenta guides, Andrej Komac and Matija Kravanja, climbing from the south after a string of failed 19th-century attempts; today's marked path essentially follows their line. A summit cross was erected by the Skala club in 1934 in memory of all who had died in the Slovene mountains, torn down and thrown over the north-west face in 1953, and re-erected in 1996. A summit register box sits at the top as well. For hikers its greatest reward is the panorama: from Škrlatica the entire north face of Triglav is laid out — the one view Triglav itself cannot offer.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Via Krnica — Ruski križ → Koča v Krnici → Kriška stena → Rdeča škrbina → puncak

Zelo zahtevna označena pot — secara teknis yang tersulit di antara jalur bertanda; helm, set self-belay, dan di musim dingin kapak es serta crampon

9.93 km +1704 m 7 jam 45 menit naik

A north-west approach that surmounts the Kriška stena, a near-vertical wall of some 300 m fitted as a via ferrata, before crossing to the Rdeča škrbina and climbing the summit wall. It carries fewer cables than the Vrata route, leaving exposed unprotected stretches — experienced parties only, and in winter fully alpinist terrain. Waypoints: Planina v Klinu, Koča v Krnici (1,113 m), the top of the Kriška stena, Rdeča škrbina, then the summit.

Route Segments

1

Ruski križ → Planina v Klinu

⏱ 20 menit
2

Planina v Klinu → Koča v Krnici

⏱ 25 menit 1.113 mdpl

Pondok buka 1 Mei–31 Oktober, 20 tempat tidur
3

Koča v Krnici → puncak Kriška stena

⏱ 3 jam 30 menit

Ferrata dinding nyaris tegak sekitar 300 m
4

Kriška stena → Rdeča škrbina

⏱ 1 jam 45 menit
5

Rdeča škrbina → puncak Škrlatica

⏱ 35 menit 2.740 mdpl

Source

Via Vrata — Aljažev dom v Vratih → Bivak IV na Rušju → Zadnji Dolek → puncak

Zelo zahtevna označena pot — jalur bertanda sangat menuntut; wajib helm dan set self-belay via ferrata, ditambah kapak es serta crampon bila masih ada salju

6.54 km +1725 m 6 jam naik (Aljažev dom → Bivak IV 2 jam 55 menit; → Zadnji Dolek 1 jam 30 menit; → puncak 1 jam 30 menit)

The classic and most used line, starting at Aljažev dom v Vratih at 1,015 m. The approach is a long haul through forest and then scree to the small unstaffed Bivak IV na Rušju (1,980 m), often used to split the climb over two days. From the Zadnji Dolek basin the path rises onto the summit wall on steel cables and iron pegs. There is no water anywhere on the route, and the south-facing sections bake in the sun, so a pre-dawn start is strongly advised.

Route Segments

1

Aljažev dom v Vratih → Bivak IV na Rušju

⏱ 2 jam 55 menit 1.980 mdpl

Hutan lalu sipi; bivak selalu terbuka, 10 tempat, ada penampung air tapi bawa kantong tidur sendiri
2

Bivak IV na Rušju → Zadnji Dolek

⏱ 1 jam 30 menit

Cekungan sipi longgar, rawan batu jatuh dari rombongan di atas
3

Zadnji Dolek → puncak Škrlatica

⏱ 1 jam 30 menit 2.740 mdpl

Dinding puncak sekitar 350–400 m dengan kabel baja, rantai, dan anak tangga besi tunggal; terpapar dan padat dua arah pada akhir pekan

Source

Via Zadnjica (Trenta) — lewat Pogačnikov dom na Kriških podih

Zelo zahtevna označena pot — terpanjang tetapi paling sedikit bagian teknisnya sampai bergabung dengan jalur lain di dinding puncak

14.00 km +2270 m 8 jam 25 menit – 8 jam 55 menit naik; dari Pogačnikov dom saja sekitar 5 jam

An approach from the Zadnjica valley in Trenta, best done over two days with a night at Pogačnikov dom na Kriških podih (2,050 m, open 1 July to end of September, 67 beds). From that hut the summit is still about five hours away. The route joins the Krnica line above the Kriška stena and merges with the Vrata route in Zadnji Dolek, so the summit wall is the same for every approach. In early summer snow lingers in its narrow ravines.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Škrlatica trip reports converge on three things. First, fitness: nearly everyone stresses that the mountain is less about technical difficulty than about the length of the day — with no hut near the summit, going up and down from the Vrata valley means close to 2 km of vertical in a single push, and one Czech climber calls it considerably more demanding than Triglav. Second, the summit wall: the last 350–400 m is a scramble through narrow passages on steel cables and single iron steps, exposed, and by several accounts sparsely protected exactly where it feels worst. Third, traffic and weather: on busy weekends the secured sections run two-way until the descent takes longer than the ascent, and cloud often closes the view towards Razor and Mangart just as you top out. The two common strategies are a very early start from the Vrata car park — 05:00 or 07:00 — or splitting the climb over two days with a night at Bivak IV na Rušju, an unstaffed bivouac hut where you need your own sleeping bag and where, one party reported, mice live too.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.