GUNUNG · Peru

Siula Grande

Information

Elevation: 6.344 m
Country: Peru (PE)
Location / Range: Cordillera Huayhuash, Andes Peru
Mountain type: Puncak batuan-es tinggi (non-vulkanik, orogenik), Cordillera Huayhuash
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: -10.2933, -76.8926
Difficulty: Sangat berat & teknis untuk pendakian puncak (dinding es/batu curam, ketinggian ekstrem) — jarang didaki dan hanya untuk alpinis berpengalaman. Sebagian besar pengunjung menikmatinya dari trek Huayhuash yang melintas di bawah dinding baratnya.
Best Season: Musim kering Andes, kira-kira Mei–September.
Permits & Rules: Trek Cordillera Huayhuash melewati tanah komunitas (comunidades) yang memungut biaya masuk per desa; ekspedisi pendakian teknis butuh logistik dan pemandu berpengalaman.
Hazards: Ketinggian ekstrem dan risiko AMS/edema, gletser dengan crevasse tersembunyi, dinding es dan batu yang curam, longsoran, serta cuaca yang cepat berubah. Kisah 1985 (Touching the Void) menegaskan betapa fatal kesalahan kecil di medan seperti ini.

Description

Siula Grande (6,344 m) is a rock-and-ice peak in the Cordillera Huayhuash of the Peruvian Andes, with a subpeak, Siula Chico (6,260 m). It is legendary in mountaineering thanks to the 1985 expedition of Joe Simpson and Simon Yates up the then-unclimbed West Face — a climb that ended in disaster when Simpson broke his leg on the descent, Yates was forced to cut the rope, and Simpson improbably survived, crawling back to base camp. The story was immortalised in the book and documentary "Touching the Void", making Siula Grande an emblem of both risk and human endurance. The summit climb is highly technical, rarely attempted, and only for elite alpinists. For most travellers, Siula Grande is experienced from the Cordillera Huayhuash trekking circuit — one of the world's finest alpine treks — which passes its base camp and glacier, with the Paso San Antonio offering the best viewpoint onto the West Face of Siula Grande and Yerupaja.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Dinding Barat (West Face) — pendakian teknis, khusus alpinis elite

Ekstrem (es/batu curam, 6.344 m)

Multi-hari ekspedisi

The historic route first climbed by Joe Simpson and Simon Yates in 1985, the setting of "Touching the Void". It is a pure, highly technical and dangerous alpine climb — steep ice and rock above 6,000 m with crevasse, avalanche and severe-weather risk. Only for very experienced alpinists with expedition logistics; not a route for general hikers.

Source

Sirkuit Trekking Cordillera Huayhuash (di bawah dinding barat)

Berat (trek ketinggian, banyak paso >4.700 m)

~8–12 hari (sirkuit penuh)

The most common way to "experience" Siula Grande without climbing it: the classic Cordillera Huayhuash circuit crossing a dozen valleys and high passes over roughly 8–12 days. The route passes Siula Grande's base camp and glacier, with the Paso San Antonio (and Siula/San Antonio viewpoints) offering the best views of the West Face of Siula Grande and Yerupaja. It demands good acclimatization, cold-weather kit and often an arriero/donkeys; many sectors cross community land charging entry fees.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Climbing Siula Grande's summit is highly technical and rarely done; its fame comes from the 1985 "Touching the Void" epic. Most people experience it from the Cordillera Huayhuash trekking circuit beneath its West Face. Below are real, verified-live sources.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.