GUNUNG · China (Tibet)
Shishapangma
希夏邦马峰 (Xīxiàbāngmǎ Fēng) / Shishapangma / Gosainthān
Source
Photo: source
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Source: Open-Meteo
Information
- Elevation
- 8.027 m
- Country
- China (Tibet) (CN)
- Location / Range
- Himalayas (Jugal/Langtang Himal), south-central Tibet, China
- Mountain type
- Mountain peak (non-volcanic, Himalaya)
- Volcanic?
- No (non-volcanic)
- Coordinates
- 28.3522, 85.7797
- Difficulty
- Extreme (an 8,000 m peak), but often called the easiest 8,000 m peak because of vehicle access to base camp and the relatively gentle north route
- Best Season
- Spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October); also frequently used for ski descents
- Permits & Rules
- Expedition permit and fees through the China Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA); access from Kathmandu via the Tibet border, base camp reachable by vehicle
- Hazards
- Extreme altitude, avalanches (site of the 2023 tragedy), a long and dangerous summit ridge between the central summit and the main summit, and harsh Tibetan weather
Description
Shishapangma (8,027 m), known in Tibetan as Gosainthān, is the 14th-highest mountain and the lowest of the eight-thousanders — and the only one lying entirely within Tibet, China. Because it sits inside Tibet, it was the last eight-thousander to be climbed: the first ascent came only on 2 May 1964 by a Chinese expedition led by Xu Jing via the northern route. The normal route follows the northwest face and north ridge, with the advantage of vehicle access to base camp at around 5,000 m. A signature challenge of Shishapangma is its three tops — the west peak (~7,966 m), the central summit (~8,008 m) and the true main summit (8,027 m) — separated by a narrow, dangerous ridge; many climbers mistakenly stop at the central summit. Though considered relatively easy, the mountain has claimed dozens of lives, including in the 2023 avalanche tragedy.
Gallery
Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.
Routes
Rute Normal — Sisi Barat Laut & Punggung Utara
Ekstrem (8.000-an), tetapi sering disebut delapan-ribuan termudah lewat rute utaraShishapangma's standard route climbs the northwest face and north ridge from Tibet — in line with the 1964 Chinese first ascent. Its key advantage is vehicle access to base camp at around 5,000 m, shortening logistics. Climbers set several snow camps toward the summit ridge. The crux is the narrow, dangerous ridge from the central summit (~8,008 m) to the true main summit (8,027 m), requiring about two hours of exposed traversing.
SourceSouthwest Face (rute curam alpine/ski)
Ekstrem (lereng ~50°, ~2.200 m pendakian dinding)Shishapangma's southwest face presents a steeper wall — about 2,200 m of ascent on slopes up to 50 degrees — a favourite for fast alpine ascents and ski descents. More direct and aesthetic than the north route, it is far more technically demanding and avalanche-exposed, reserved for highly experienced climbers.
SourceSafety Statistics
Moderate riskAggregated for prevention and awareness — not a casualty list. Read alongside the safety tips below.
Period 1964–2012 · Eight-thousander death-rate table (8000ers.com data) 1964 through March 2012: 302 successful summits / 25 deaths = 8.3% deaths per person reaching the top. Although Shishapangma is the lowest eight-thousander (8,027 m) and often called the 'easiest', its slopes are extraordinarily AVALANCHE-prone due to wind-slab layers. The Himalayan Database records 36 deaths as of November 2025; the 7 October 2023 avalanche alone claimed 4 lives near the summit.
Causes of death
- Avalanche
💡 Avalanches are the chief killer on Shishapangma — the summit slopes form wind slabs from relentless southern winds, and the danger lingers because of cold temperatures and little sunshine. Watch avalanche forecasts, wait 24–48 hours for fresh snow to bond before moving, and avoid loaded lee slopes after storms.
Source - Crevasse fall est.
💡 Several deaths resulted from crevasse falls (e.g. 2016). Always rope up when crossing the glacier, practise crevasse-rescue technique, and probe the route where crevasses are hidden under snow.
Source - Lost / disoriented est.
💡 Some climbers vanished at altitude and were never found (e.g. 2018). Avoid climbing solo without communication, carry an emergency tracker/comms device, and turn back as soon as visibility or conditions deteriorate.
Source
Notable incidents
- 1964 First ascent of Shishapangma (1964) — the last eight-thousander climbed
On 2 May 1964 a Chinese team reached the summit of Shishapangma, making it the 14th and last eight-thousander to be climbed. Lying entirely within Tibet, it was long closed to foreign expeditions.
Source - 1999 1999 avalanche — a lesson on loaded slopes
In 1999 two American climbers were killed by an avalanche on Shishapangma's slopes; the body of one was only found in 2016 as the glacier shifted. The event is a classic reminder of the danger of crossing loaded snow slopes and of assessing snowpack stability before moving.
Source - 2023 7 October 2023 avalanche — four killed near the summit
On 7 October 2023 a series of avalanches around 7,800 m struck climbers heading for the summit, killing four. The China Tibet Mountaineering Association promptly closed the peak for the rest of the season. The incident highlights the risk of pushing for the summit late in autumn when lee slopes stay laden with wind slab and receive little sunshine.
Source
Climbing Experiences
Shishapangma (8,027 m) is the lowest eight-thousander and the only one entirely in Tibet, often a climber's 'first' 8,000er thanks to vehicle access to base camp. The videos and articles below document real experiences — from the well-known 2023 avalanche tragedy and a historic summit moment to a National Geographic ski expedition, route guides and climbing history, plus the 2024 true-summit season via the Spanish route and the CTMA permit/oxygen dynamics.
References
The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.