GUNUNG · Nepal

Putha Hiunchuli (Dhaulagiri VII)

Putha Hiunchuli

Puncak Putha Hiunchuli difoto dari base camp (Wikimedia Commons, oleh Pavel Matoušek). Photo: source

Information

Elevation: 7.246 m
Country: Nepal (NP)
Location / Range: Dhaulagiri Himal, Himalaya — Nepal barat, di tepi kawasan Dolpo (Distrik Dolpa/Myagdi)
Mountain type: Puncak salju-es non-vulkanik di ujung barat Dhaulagiri Himal; sering disebut Dhaulagiri VII dan dianggap salah satu 7.000-an paling terjangkau di Nepal
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 28.7475, 83.1458
Difficulty: Ekspedisi ketinggian yang tergolong 'terjangkau' untuk kelas 7.000-an: jalur normal di flank barat laut berupa pendakian gletser bersalju non-teknis dengan kemiringan rata-rata ~35° dan sedikit celah (kira-kira PD Alpen). Tetap merupakan pendakian tinggi sungguhan yang menuntut aklimatisasi, tim berpengalaman, dan operator terdaftar
Best Season: Pra-monsun (April–Mei) dan pasca-monsun (September–Oktober); ekspedisi ski umumnya di musim semi
Permits & Rules: Wajib royalti ekspedisi Departemen Pariwisata Nepal untuk puncak 7.000–7.500 m (dibayar lewat agen terdaftar, dengan liaison officer dan deposit sampah). Karena pendekatan melintasi Dolpo, juga perlu izin kawasan terbatas Lower Dolpo plus izin Taman Nasional Shey-Phoksundo. Pendakian solo mandiri tidak diizinkan — wajib lewat operator Nepal
Hazards: Celah gletser dan medan es di flank barat laut, penyakit ketinggian ekstrem di atas 7.000 m, cuaca cepat berubah dan angin kencang, serta keterpencilan kawasan Dolpo yang membuat evakuasi lambat

Description

Putha Hiunchuli (7,246 m), often called Dhaulagiri VII, is the westernmost peak of the Dhaulagiri Himal in western Nepal, standing on the edge of the remote Dolpo region. Among mountaineers it is known as one of Nepal's more "attainable" 7,000ers: its normal route on the northwest flank is largely a non-technical glacier snow climb with gentle slopes of about 35° and few crevasses, making it a popular choice for those wanting a summit above 7,000 m without extreme ice-climbing difficulty. Even so, it remains a genuine expedition: the approach is long — flying from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj then Juphal, followed by roughly a week's trek across Dolpo to a base camp around 4,900–4,940 m — and the summit is reached via a chain of high camps. Because it lies in the protected and restricted Dolpo area, climbing requires an expedition permit, a restricted-area permit and a registered operator. Its long glaciated north side also makes it one of the few 7,000 m peaks in Nepal suited to ski-mountaineering. The first ascent was made on 17 October 1954 by Jimmy Roberts and Ang Nyima Sherpa.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Jalur normal — Flank Barat Laut/Utara via Dolpo (Juphal → Base Camp Kagkot)

Terjangkau untuk kelas 7.000-an: pendakian gletser bersalju non-teknis, lereng rata-rata ~35°, sedikit celah (kira-kira PD Alpen)

Ekspedisi ±30–40 hari (±9 hari trek ke base camp)

Putha Hiunchuli's standard line. The journey begins by flying Kathmandu → Nepalgunj → Juphal (Dolpo), then trekking about a week east/north across the remote Dolpo region (Dunai, Tarakot, Musikhola, Kagkot, Yak Kharka) to a base camp around 4,900–4,940 m on the north/northwest side of the Dhaulagiri range. Three high camps are then established (roughly C1 ±5,360–5,480 m, C2 ±5,940–6,150 m, C3 ±6,350–6,475 m) on the glaciated NW flank before a summit push up ideally angled snow slopes to the 7,246 m top. Its gentle character and low objective hazard make it one of Nepal's most attainable 7,000ers, though some operators use supplemental oxygen on summit day. The first ascent was made on 17 October 1954 by Jimmy Roberts and Ang Nyima Sherpa.

Route Segments

1

Juphal → trek Dolpo → Base Camp (±4.940 m)

⏱ ±9 hari 4.940 mdpl

Pendekatan lewat Dunai, Tarakot, Kagkot, Yak Kharka
2

Base Camp → Camp 1 (±5.480 m)

5.480 mdpl

Masuk flank barat laut yang bergletser
3

Camp 2 (±6.150 m) → Camp 3 (±6.475 m)

6.475 mdpl

Kemah tinggi di lereng salju
4

Camp 3 → puncak (7.246 m)

7.246 mdpl

Hari puncak menyusuri lereng salju ~35°

Source

Varian ski-mountaineering (flank utara yang sama)

Sama (PD bersalju) namun dengan turunan ski ±2.000 m vertikal

Sama dengan jalur normal; turunan ski dari dekat puncak

Putha Hiunchuli's north side has a long glacier with skiable snow from around 5,000 m up — about 2,000 m of vertical descent — making it one of the few 7,000 m peaks in Nepal suited to ski-mountaineering. The approach, camp placements and difficulty match the standard route; the difference is that the summit is reached and descended on skis/splitboard. Several expedition films (e.g. by guide Jacomet Ervin, SSF Nepal and a DYNAFIT team) document this descent line.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Putha Hiunchuli is often climbed as a "gateway" to the 7,000 m world and, thanks to its long glaciated north flank, also as a rare ski-mountaineering objective in Nepal. The footage below shows ski and climbing expeditions to this 7,246 m summit, including a ski-touring speed record and an animated route overview, plus an operator page detailing base camp and high camps.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.