GUNUNG · Tajikistan

Puncak Korzhenevskaya

Қуллаи Озодӣ (tg) · пик Корженевской / пик Озоди (ru) — Peak Ozodi

Puncak Korzhenevskaya (7.105 m) di Pamir dilihat dari punggungan Borodkina saat matahari terbenam.. Photo: source

Information

Elevation: 7.105 m
Country: Tajikistan (TJ)
Location / Range: Pegunungan Akademiya Nauk, Pamir, Tajikistan (±13 km utara Puncak Ismoil Somoni)
Mountain type: Puncak tujuh-ribuan bergletser di Pegunungan Akademi Ilmu Pengetahuan (Akademiya Nauk), Pamir — non-vulkanik
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 39.0559, 72.0117
Difficulty: Sangat berat / ekspedisi alpine tinggi (rute normal punggungan selatan setara grade Rusia 5A; tanpa panjatan teknis ekstrem tetapi sepenuhnya bermedan salju-es di atas 6.000 m dan menuntut aklimatisasi berminggu-minggu)
Best Season: Juli–awal September — jendela cuaca Pamir; Agustus paling lazim dipakai ekspedisi
Permits & Rules: Izin pendakian Tajikistan (GBAO/permit kawasan) plus dukungan operator; akses base camp Poляna Moskvina umumnya dengan helikopter dari Jirgatal/Dushanbe atau trek panjang beberapa hari
Hazards: Ketinggian ekstrem (risiko HAPE/HACE di atas 6.000 m), badai dan angin Pamir yang tiba-tiba, icefall & retakan gletser, longsoran salju di lereng atas, batu jatuh di jalur pendekatan dekat aliran lelehan gletser, evakuasi sangat sulit tanpa helikopter

Description

Peak Korzhenevskaya (7,105 m) — officially renamed Peak Ozodi ('Freedom Peak' in Tajik) in 2020 — is the third-highest mountain in the Pamir and one of the five former-Soviet seven-thousanders required for the prestigious Snow Leopard award. It rises in the Akademiya Nauk range of Tajikistan, about 13 km north of the much higher Ismoil Somoni Peak (7,495 m), with which it shares a base camp. Its older name was given by the Russian geographer Nikolai Korzhenevskiy in honour of his wife. The first ascent was made in 1953 by a team led by A. Ugarov via the Fortambek Glacier and the north ridge. Among the Snow Leopard peaks, Korzhenevskaya is regarded as one of the more approachable technically, which makes it a common first objective for climbers chasing the title — but 'approachable' still means a long snow-and-ice expedition at extreme altitude. Almost all expeditions are based at the Moskvina Glade base camp (±4,200 m), reached by helicopter, and then work up camps around 5,100–5,300 m and 6,100–6,400 m on the south ridge (the classic Tsetlin route of 1966) before making a summit push. Given the remoteness and the harsh Pamir weather, emergency evacuation depends almost entirely on helicopters.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Punggungan Barat (rute baru, traverse) — hanya untuk tim alpine berpengalaman

Ekstrem; jalur eksploratif dengan kamp di 6.465 m dan 7.060 m, medan salju curam dan retakan, jauh di atas kesulitan rute normal

±18 hari dari base camp hingga kembali (laporan ekspedisi AAJ)

The west-ridge traverse reported to the American Alpine Journal is a line for experienced alpine teams, not for typical Snow Leopard aspirants. It works through steep snow around a rocky gendarme with a camp at about 6,465 m, tops out on an intermediate high point near 6,782 m, then crosses a snow plateau exposed to blizzards and crevasses, with a final camp at 7,060 m. The summit was reached on 19 August, and the team descended the normal Tsetlin route, returning to Moskvina Glade 18 days after setting out — a fair measure of how much longer and harder it is than the south ridge.

Source

Rute Normal — Punggungan Selatan (jalur Tsetlin, 1966) dari Poляna Moskvina

Grade Rusia 5A — sangat berat; medan salju-es sepanjang rute atas, tali tetap di beberapa bagian curam, tanpa panjatan batu teknis ekstrem

+2900 m Ekspedisi 2–3 minggu termasuk aklimatisasi; penyerbuan puncak ±3 hari dari base camp, turun ±10 jam

The classic and most-used line on Peak Korzhenevskaya is the south ridge, first climbed by V. Tsetlin's team in 1966. It is based at the Moskvina Glade base camp (±4,200 m) at the foot of the Moskvin Glacier, reached by helicopter from Jirgatal/Dushanbe (the alternative is a multi-day trek from the road). From base camp the route crosses the glacier and an icefall that winds between huge ice walls to a first camp around 5,100–5,300 m. Higher up it follows the south ridge with fixed lines on the steeper sections, gaining a saddle and a short rock step before reaching a broad snow plateau where the high camp is placed (±6,100–6,400 m). From there summit day is a long snow ridge to the 7,105 m top. Success hinges less on technical difficulty than on acclimatisation: teams usually go up and down several times before the summit push. Watch for rockfall on the approach near the glacial meltwater outflow, crevasses, and sudden Pamir storms. Season: July to early September, with August the most common.

Route Segments

1

Poляna Moskvina Base Camp (±4.200 m) → Kamp 1 (±5.100–5.300 m)

⏱ 1 hari 5.300 mdpl

Melintasi gletser dan icefall berkelok di antara dinding es; sebagian jalur bertali tetap
2

Kamp 1 → Kamp tinggi di dataran salju (±6.100–6.400 m)

⏱ 1 hari 6.400 mdpl

Punggungan selatan dengan lereng curam bertali tetap, sadel, dan sebuah undakan batu pendek
3

Kamp tinggi → Puncak Korzhenevskaya (7.105 m)

⏱ 1 hari (hari puncak) 7.105 mdpl

Punggungan salju panjang di udara sangat tipis; turun ke base camp bisa ±10 jam

Source

Climbing Experiences

Climbing Peak Korzhenevskaya (7,105 m) means running a full Pamir expedition, not a weekend outing. The starting point is the Moskvina Glade base camp (±4,200 m) at the foot of the Moskvin Glacier, reached by helicopter from Jirgatal/Dushanbe or by a multi-day trek for those on a tighter budget. From there teams work their way up the classic south ridge (the 1966 Tsetlin route): a camp around 5,100–5,300 m, then a high camp near 6,100–6,400 m, with fixed lines on some of the steeper sections. Progressive acclimatisation is the core of success — most teams go up and down several times before the summit push from the highest camp. Among the five Snow Leopard seven-thousanders, Korzhenevskaya is considered one of the most approachable technically, so many climbers make it their first 7,000er. Even so, expedition accounts consistently warn about the Pamir's abrupt weather changes, blizzards, glacier crevasses, and the fact that emergency evacuation here depends almost entirely on helicopters. The climbing window is narrow: July to early September, with August the busiest.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.