GUNUNG · Nepal / China

Pumori

Pumori / पुमोरी / 普莫里峰

Information

Elevation: 7.161 m
Country: Nepal / China (NP)
Location / Range: Mahalangur Himal (Khumbu area), Nepal–Tibet (China) border, about 8 km west of Everest
Mountain type: Mountain peak (non-volcanic, Himalayan rock and ice)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 28.0156, 86.8281
Difficulty: Very difficult (a technical seven-thousander); popular as training for Everest, with serious serac avalanche hazards on the normal route
Best Season: Spring (March–May) and autumn (September–November)
Permits & Rules: Climbing permit from Nepal's Department of Tourism; approach via the Everest Base Camp trek to the Pumori base camp near Gorak Shep
Hazards: Avalanches and serac collapses triggered by ice blocks above the route, crevasses, windswept ridges, and high altitude — Pumori has claimed lives in avalanches on several occasions (1989, 2001)

Description

Pumori (7,161 m) is an elegant pyramidal peak in the Mahalangur Himal, only about 8 km west of Mount Everest, on the Nepal–Tibet border. It was named by George Mallory and in Sherpa is often rendered as 'Daughter' or 'Mountain Daughter' — frequently called the 'Daughter of Everest'. It was first climbed on 17 May 1962 by a German–Swiss expedition led by Gerhard Lenser via the Southeast Ridge, which remains the normal route with three camps. Because it sits directly across from Everest, Pumori's summit offers a stunning panorama of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and the Tibetan Plateau, and it is widely used as a training peak for Everest. Its normal route, however, carries real danger: serac collapse and avalanches that have claimed many lives.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Rute Normal — Southeast Ridge (punggung tenggara)

Sangat sulit (7.000-an teknis, paparan longsoran)

Ekspedisi ±3–4 minggu (termasuk trek pendekatan & aklimatisasi)

Pumori's classic route follows the Southeast Ridge, the line of the 1962 first ascent. From base camp near Gorak Shep in the Everest region, climbers typically set three camps along the snow-and-ice ridge to the 7,161 m summit. The route offers panoramic views of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse, but carries serious danger: avalanches and serac collapse triggered by ice blocks above the route. Acclimatization is done via the Everest Base Camp trek before the summit push.

Source

Trek aklimatisasi ke Base Camp Pumori

Trekking ketinggian tinggi (bukan pendakian teknis)

1 hari (dari kawasan Gorak Shep / Everest Base Camp)

Not a summit route but a short trek to Pumori base camp from the Gorak Shep / Everest Base Camp area. Many Everest expeditions use it as an acclimatization step while enjoying one of the best viewpoints of Everest and the Khumbu valley, without entering Pumori's technical terrain.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Pumori (7,161 m), the 'Daughter of Everest', a pyramidal peak facing Everest that is popular as a training mountain and offers some of the best views of Everest. The videos and references below document real experiences on Pumori — from an alpine-style ascent with Everest views and footage from classic expeditions, to a review of its avalanche tragedies and a community route guide.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.