GUNUNG · Austria / Swiss

Piz Buin

Piz Buin (Großer Piz Buin)

Information

Elevation: 3.312 m
Country: Austria / Swiss (AT)
Location / Range: Pegunungan Silvretta, perbatasan Vorarlberg (Austria) – Graubünden (Swiss)
Mountain type: Puncak batuan berselimut gletser di perbatasan — puncak tertinggi Vorarlberg
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 46.8441, 10.1189
Difficulty: Alpin PD — pendakian gletser dengan tali & crampon, ditambah skrambling batu terekspos (UIAA I–III) di dekat puncak
Best Season: Pertengahan Juli–September, saat jembatan salju gletser paling stabil; awal musim menyisakan bahaya longsoran salju
Permits & Rules: Tidak ada permit; menginap di Wiesbadener Hütte (2.443 m) dianjurkan dan sebaiknya lewat pemandu/rope team karena medan gletser berkawah
Hazards: Kawah tersembunyi (crevasse) di Gletser Ochsental & Vermunt, jatuhan batu — khususnya di sekitar Buinlücke sejak longsor besar Piz Buin Pitschen 2022 — serta perubahan cuaca cepat di ketinggian

Description

Piz Buin (3,312 m) is the highest peak of the Silvretta Alps and the high point of the Austrian state of Vorarlberg, standing right on the border with the Swiss canton of Graubünden. This glacier-girdled rock summit was first climbed on 14 July 1865 by Joseph Anton Specht and Johann Jakob Weilenmann with guides Jakob Pfitscher and Franz Pöll. Its normal route starts from the Wiesbadener Hütte (2,443 m), crosses the Vermunt and Ochsental glaciers to the Buinlücke col, and finishes with exposed rock scrambling to the top — a glaciated alpine ascent (PD) requiring rope, crampons and glacier-travel experience. The mountain also lent its name to the 'Piz Buin' sunscreen brand, created by chemist Franz Greiter after he was sunburned climbing it in 1938. Since a major rockfall on nearby Piz Buin Pitschen in 2022, the Buinlücke area on the normal route has become more exposed to falling rock.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Großer Piz Buin Normalweg (deskripsi pariwisata Montafon)

Tur gletser alpin (crampon/tali) + skrambling batu; crux UIAA II

±6–7 jam total dari Wiesbadener Hütte bagi pendaki berpengalaman

From the Wiesbadener Hütte (2,443 m) the route crosses the Ochsental Glacier to the Buinlücke and finishes with a short moderate rock climb to the summit. It requires glacier travel with crampons and rope plus a scramble; the page warns the ice is now only a few metres thick in places due to rapid glacier retreat.

Source

Normalweg via Gletser Ochsental & Buinlücke (dari Wiesbadener Hütte)

Alpin PD+ ; crux dua cerobong batu UIAA 2– / 2+ (grade II)

±4:45 jam naik / ±3:45 jam turun dari Wiesbadener Hütte (±8,5 jam hut-ke-hut)

The modern normal route ascends the Ochsental Glacier from the Wiesbadener Hütte and traverses to the Buinlücke (3,054 m), then tackles two short chimneys (UIAA 2– / 2+) on the summit rocks to reach 3,312 m. It is a glaciated PD alpine tour requiring rope, crampons and glacier skills, and crosses an area exposed to frequent rockfall that must be passed quickly.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Piz Buin (3,312 m), the highest peak of the Silvretta Alps and high point of Vorarlberg. The sources below document real ascents of the normal route from the Wiesbadener Hütte — crossing the crevassed Ochsental Glacier to the Buinlücke col, then exposed rock scrambling (a grade-II chimney) to the summit. All stress the need for rope, crampons and glacier-travel experience.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.