GUNUNG · Nepal
Parchamo (Pachermo)
पर्चामो
Source
Lintasan tinggi Tashi Lapcha (5.755 m) dari sisi barat di Rolwaling Himal; Parchamo berdiri tepat di atas pas ini. Photo: source
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Source: Open-Meteo
Information
- Elevation
- 6.187 m
- Country
- Nepal (NP)
- Location / Range
- Rolwaling Himal — perbatasan Distrik Dolakha & Solukhumbu, Nepal
- Mountain type
- Puncak trekking (trekking peak NMA) di gugusan Rolwaling Himal, tepat di atas jalur lintas Tashi Lapcha yang menghubungkan Rolwaling dan Khumbu
- Volcanic?
- No (non-volcanic)
- Coordinates
- 27.8366, 86.5474
- Difficulty
- Menengah-teknis (kadar alpine PD): pendakian glasier bersalju dan es dengan bagian punggung akhir hingga ~45°, memakai tali tetap, crampon, dan kapak es; dijangkau setelah trek terpencil dan lintasan pas tinggi Tashi Lapcha
- Best Season
- Musim semi (Maret–Mei) dan musim gugur (Oktober–November)
- Permits & Rules
- Izin puncak NMA (trekking peak), izin kawasan Gaurishankar Conservation Area & Sagarmatha; umumnya lewat ekspedisi terpandu karena lintasan Tashi Lapcha bersalju
- Hazards
- Medan glasier bercrevasse, lereng es/salju curam di dekat puncak, bahaya lintasan pas tinggi Tashi Lapcha (5.755 m), penyakit ketinggian, dan cuaca berubah cepat di kawasan terpencil
Description
Parchamo (also spelled Pachermo, ~6,187 m) is a trekking peak in the Rolwaling Himal that rises directly above the Tashi Lapcha high pass, on the boundary between Nepal's Dolakha and Solukhumbu districts. It is usually climbed as part of one of Nepal's most remote and demanding classic treks: threading the quiet Rolwaling valley, crossing the snowbound Tashi Lapcha pass (5,755 m), then descending into the Khumbu (Everest) region. The normal route climbs from the pass side up a snowy glacier to the northwest ridge; the terrain is moderate, but the final section onto the summit ridge can steepen to around 45° and calls for fixed ropes, crampons and an ice axe. Because of its isolated position and the need to cross a high pass just to reach it, Parchamo is considered a more serious trekking peak than most — well suited to experienced trekkers combining light technical climbing with a cross-region trekking adventure. Reported heights vary (commonly 6,187 m; some sources cite ~6,273 m).
Gallery
Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.
Routes
Rute Normal — dari lintasan Tashi Lapcha via glasier ke punggung barat laut
Alpine PD: glasier bersalju bertahap dengan bagian punggung puncak hingga ~45°, memakai tali tetap, crampon, dan kapak esParchamo's normal route starts from the Tashi Lapcha pass side (5,755 m), reached after a long trek through the Rolwaling valley. From a high camp near the pass, the climb ascends a snowy glacier to the northwest ridge; most of the terrain is moderate, but the final section onto the summit ridge can steepen to around 45° and is usually fixed-roped. The summit (~6,187 m) gives panoramas of Rolwaling, Gauri Shankar and the Khumbu peaks. Because reaching the mountain's foot requires crossing a high snowbound pass, the route demands solid acclimatisation and basic glacier skills; most climbers take it as the summit of a cross-region trek rather than a standalone objective.
Route Segments
- 1
Lembah Rolwaling → Na → Base bawah Tashi Lapcha
Menembus lembah Rolwaling yang terpencil menuju kaki pas
- 2
Base → Kamp tinggi dekat Tashi Lapcha
Kamp glasier di dekat lintasan Tashi Lapcha (5.755 m)
- 3
Kamp tinggi → Punggung barat laut → Puncak Parchamo (~6.187 m)
Glasier bersalju lalu punggung puncak hingga ~45° dengan tali tetap
Climbing Experiences
Parchamo is rarely climbed on its own; it is almost always the summit of a Rolwaling–Tashi Lapcha–Khumbu crossing. The footage and notes below show real experiences on this route — the remote Rolwaling valley, the snowbound Tashi Lapcha pass, and the climb to Parchamo's summit ridge.
References
The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.