GUNUNG · Chile

Ojos del Salado

Nevado Ojos del Salado

Information

Elevation: 6.893 m
Country: Chile (CL)
Location / Range: Central Andes, Puna de Atacama, Chile–Argentina border (Región de Atacama, Chile / Catamarca, Argentina)
Mountain type: Stratovolcano (highest volcano on Earth) — second-highest peak in the Americas after Aconcagua
Volcanic?: Yes — volcano
Coordinates: -27.1097, -68.5414
Difficulty: Strenuous (non-technical up to about 6,600 m, then a Class 2–3 scramble in the summit section; the extreme altitude is the dominant challenge; conditions vary with the season and snow)
Best Season: November–March (Southern Hemisphere summer; more stable weather windows; 4WD access required to base camp)
Permits & Rules: A written permit from CONAF Atacama (Chilean side) is mandatory before climbing; if going via the Argentine side, approval from the Gendarmería Nacional in Fiambalá is required; permits can take several days to process
Hazards: Extreme altitude (6,893 m) causing high AMS/HAPE/HACE risk; very strong winds especially near the summit; freezing temperatures; total remoteness (very limited SAR); the summit scramble can be slippery when snow-covered; the Atacama Desert is extremely dry — dehydration sets in quickly without notice

Description

Ojos del Salado (6,893 m) straddles the Chile–Argentina border in the Puna de Atacama, making it Earth's highest active volcano and the second-highest peak in the Americas, surpassed only by Aconcagua roughly 70 km to the north. Its name means 'eyes of salty water' in Spanish, referring to the shimmering lagoons and salt flats on its slopes. A frozen crater lake — said to be the world's highest lake — lies inside the crater at about 6,390 m. The normal approach is from the Chilean side via Laguna Verde and Refugio Atacama (~5,200 m) up to Refugio Tejos (5,817 m), the highest camp; from there the summit bid crosses rocky desert terrain without technical ice to around 6,600 m, then transitions to a Class 2–3 boulder scramble to the twin summits. An Argentina approach from Fiambalá is less travelled but equally valid. Although the normal route requires no ice-climbing gear, the extreme altitude makes Ojos del Salado dangerous without careful, staged acclimatization. The mountain sits in the world's driest desert, and base camp is reachable by 4WD from the nearest towns.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Rute Argentina (Via San Francisco)

Berat

+2200 m 13–15 hari

Pendekatan lebih panjang dari sisi Argentina melalui Pass San Francisco—medan altiplano yang lebih bervariasi dengan aklimatisasi bertahap lebih baik. Cocok bagi pendaki yang sekaligus ingin mendaki Llullaillaco. Butuh izin khusus dari Taman Nasional Argentina.

Rute Normal (Sisi Chili)

Berat

9–12 hari

Dari refugio Atacama/Tejos menapaki altiplano gurun yang sangat kering & tinggi; bagian puncak ada scramble kelas 2–3. Aklimatisasi krusial.

Rute Normal (Sisi Chili)

Berat

+1800 m 9–12 hari

Jalur paling populer dari sisi Chili lewat Refugio Claudio Lucero → Refugio Atacama (5.100 m) → Refugio Tejos (5.800 m). Bisa ditempuh sebagian dengan kendaraan 4WD; bagian puncak ada scramble kelas 2–3 di bebatuan rapuh. Izin dari DIFROL Chili wajib & gratis.

Climbing Experiences

Ojos del Salado (6,893 m) on the Chile–Argentina border — Earth's highest volcano and the Americas' second-highest peak. A very dry, high desert-altiplano climb with a slightly technical summit (class 2–3 scramble). Climbers highlight extreme altitude, fierce winds, remoteness, and the need for thorough acclimatization before the summit bid.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.