GUNUNG · Nepal

Nuptse

Nuptse di Himalaya Nepal / Nuptse in the Nepal Himalaya — Wikimedia Commons. Photo: source

Information

Elevation: 7.861 m
Country: Nepal (NP)
Location / Range: Mahalangur Himal (Khumbu), Sagarmatha National Park
Mountain type: Puncak Himalaya (orogenik, non-vulkanik)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 27.9664, 86.8900
Difficulty: Sangat teknis / ekstrem — objektif alpine berketinggian, bukan trekking
Best Season: Pra-monsun (April–Mei) dan pasca-monsun (September–Oktober)
Permits & Rules: Izin pendakian Nepal (Department of Tourism) + tiket Taman Nasional Sagarmatha
Hazards: Punggungan curam & terekspos, longsoran salju, seracs, ketinggian ekstrem, cuaca berubah cepat

Description

Nuptse is a non-volcanic mountain in Nepal’s Khumbu, Mahalangur Himal; Wikidata records its main summit at 7,861 m. Its ridge forms part of the Everest–Lhotse–Nuptse massif above the Khumbu Glacier. Expedition leader Joseph Walmsley describes the first ascent via the central ridge on the south face, with Dennis Davis and Tashi reaching the summit on 16 May 1961. Later accounts require attention to their endpoints: the French team in 2017 reached Nuptse Nup II (7,742 m), while Are You Experienced? ended on the ridge near 7,700 m without reaching the summit. These reports describe mixed rock and ice climbing, restricted bivouacs, and exposure to severe weather and falling debris.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Are You Experienced? — sisi selatan, berakhir di punggungan

M5, 90° (laporan AAJ / AAJ report)

This approximately 2,000 m line joins the 1961 route near 7,200 m. Glairon-Rappaz and Benoist reached the ridge near 7,700 m and descended without summiting. This records a climb that did not reach the summit.

Source

Punggungan tengah sisi selatan — rute pertama 1961

Ekspedisi teknis / Technical expedition

Walmsley selected the central ridge after examining the south face. This line brought Davis and Tashi to the main summit on 16 May 1961. The account documents a historical route, not current access conditions.

Source

Sisi selatan menuju Nuptse Nup II — jalur Prancis 2017

Panjat es dan campuran ekstrem / Extreme ice and mixed climbing

14–21 Oktober 2017 / 14–21 October 2017 (ekspedisi tercatat / recorded ascent and descent)

Degoulet, Guigonnet, and Millerioux reached Nuptse Nup II (7,742 m), not Nuptse I. They descended the same line after summiting on 19 October. Dates describe that expedition rather than a repeat-ascent schedule.

Source

Safety Statistics

Aggregated for prevention and awareness — not a casualty list. Read alongside the safety tips below.

Indicative — small sample size.

2.96% Fatality rate per recorded attempt

5 Recorded deaths

169 Attempts

Period 1950–2006 · HDB, Appendix A pp. 142–143, code NUPT: 5 deaths / N=169 member participations above base camp, 1950–2006; 2.96%. Attempt means a member participation, not a unique person or expedition; hired personnel are excluded. Table D-5 prints 2.98% for the same N; the Appendix A figure agrees with 5/169 × 100. Independent confirmation for this population and period was not found. Indicative because there were only five deaths and the data are historical; not a prediction of current risk. Narrative hazards below are not a breakdown of those deaths or evidence of the safest season. · single source

Causes of death

Fall

💡 The 1975 expedition account records falls during ascent and descent; prevention lesson: plan traverse protection and descent time before pursuing the summit.
Source
Avalanche

💡 AAJ 1982 reports a team avoiding the original route because of avalanche danger; prevention lesson: assess snow conditions and be willing to abandon a route.
Source
Rockfall

💡 AAJ 1982 reports a rockslide destroying advanced base without fatalities; prevention lesson: assess rockfall paths before choosing a campsite.
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Notable incidents

1975 14 May: falls during withdrawal

Two climbers died on the traverse between high camps during withdrawal after deteriorating weather. Prevention lesson: retreat still requires a plan for protecting the descent.
Source
1975 9 May: falls during a summit attempt

Two climbers died during a summit attempt. The fall was unwitnessed; its precise trigger is unknown. The account mentions possible rockfall, not a proven cause.
Source

Statistics source: Source

Climbing Experiences

This collection combines panorama videos and commentary with three first-person climbing accounts. Walmsley describes the 1961 first ascent; Degoulet reports the 2017 ascent of Nuptse Nup II; Glairon-Rappaz records an attempt ending on the ridge. Summit identity and turnaround points distinguish the expeditions’ outcomes. Cramped bivouacs, falling debris, and severe weather recur in the direct accounts.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.