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GUNUNG · Nepal

Nuptse

Source

Information

Elevation
7.861 m
Country
Nepal (NP)
Location / Range
Mahalangur Himal (Khumbu), Sagarmatha National Park
Mountain type
Puncak Himalaya (orogenik, non-vulkanik)
Volcanic?
No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates
27.9664, 86.8900
Difficulty
Sangat teknis / ekstrem — objektif alpine berketinggian, bukan trekking
Best Season
Pra-monsun (April–Mei) dan pasca-monsun (September–Oktober)
Permits & Rules
Izin pendakian Nepal (Department of Tourism) + tiket Taman Nasional Sagarmatha
Hazards
Punggungan curam & terekspos, longsoran salju, seracs, ketinggian ekstrem, cuaca berubah cepat

Description

Nuptse (7,861 m, main peak Nuptse I) is a mountain in the Khumbu region of the Mahalangur Himal, Nepal, standing about 2 km south-west of Mount Everest inside Sagarmatha National Park (a UNESCO World Heritage Site). Its name means 'west peak' in Tibetan, reflecting its position as the western side of the Everest–Lhotse–Nuptse massif; its long ridge forms a dramatic wall above the Khumbu Glacier and is a familiar sight from Everest Base Camp. Nuptse is not a volcano—it was formed by the orogenic uplift of the Himalaya. Though lower than its neighbours, Nuptse is notoriously technical and dangerous; its main summit was first climbed only on 16 May 1961 by Dennis Davis and Sherpa Tashi on a British expedition. In 2017, Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck died while acclimatizing solo on Nuptse ahead of a planned Everest–Lhotse traverse, underlining the mountain's reputation as a serious objective rather than a general hiking destination.

Routes

Panorama dari Everest Base Camp / Trek Khumbu

Trekking (hanya melihat, tidak mendaki Nuptse)
Bagian dari trek EBC (±12–14 hari pulang-pergi)

The most common way to 'experience' Nuptse: seeing its wall and ridge towering above the Khumbu Glacier from the Everest Base Camp trek and its surroundings. This is not a climb of Nuptse itself but a trek into the Sagarmatha region that offers close-up views of Nuptse.

Source

Punggungan Barat Laut (rute pertama, 1961)

Sangat teknis / ekstrem
Multi-hari (ekspedisi alpine)

The first successful line to the main summit Nuptse I (7,861 m), completed on 16 May 1961 by Dennis Davis and Sherpa Tashi on a British expedition. It demands technical climbing on steep, exposed ridges with avalanche danger and extreme altitude—not a trekking route.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Nuptse (7,861 m) rises just south-west of Everest and forms an iconic wall seen by every trekker at Everest Base Camp and along the Khumbu route. The experience record revolves around two things: views of Nuptse from the Everest/EBC route (photos and video of its ridge towering above the Khumbu Glacier), and accounts of its dangerous technical climbing—including the death of alpinist Ueli Steck while acclimatizing solo on Nuptse in 2017. Because it is so technical, Nuptse is rarely a general climbing goal; most people experience it as a majestic backdrop on the Everest trek rather than a summit they climb.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.

  1. 1 Wikipedia Nuptse en.wikipedia.org · EN
  2. 2 Wikidata Nuptse (Q1139538) wikidata.org · EN
  3. 3 Encyclopedia Nuptse — Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering summitpost.org · EN
  4. 4 Encyclopedia Nuptse I peakvisor.com · EN