GUNUNG · India

Nilkantha

नीलकंठ पर्वत

Information

Elevation: 6.596 m
Country: India (IN)
Location / Range: Garhwal Himalaya, Uttarakhand
Mountain type: Puncak non-vulkanik dengan dinding batu, salju, dan es
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 30.7200, 79.4000
Difficulty: Ekspedisi teknis batu-es; laporan Martin Moran menilai punggungan barat D+/TD-, dengan bagian batu hingga IV+ dan medan campuran Scottish II–III.
Best Season: Laporan punggungan barat mencatat pendakian akhir Mei–awal Juni 2000; laporan Jason Thompson mencatat ekspedisi pascamonsun pada September. Tanggal ini adalah riwayat perjalanan, bukan jaminan kondisi.
Permits & Rules: Laporan Jason Thompson mencatat pengurusan logistik di Delhi dan keikutsertaan liaison officer dalam ekspedisi. Sumber ini tidak menetapkan aturan izin atau biaya terkini.
Hazards: Jatuhan serac pada pendekatan punggungan barat, batu lepas, medan campuran curam, cornice, ketinggian, dan badai listrik; laporan Thompson juga menjelaskan kesulitan abseil saat turun.

Description

Nilkantha (6,596 m) is a Garhwal Himalayan peak in Uttarakhand, India, rising west of Badrinath. The Satopanth Glacier lies to its northwest and the Panpatia Glacier to its southwest. The 1961 ascent claim was disputed; the north-face ascent on 3 June 1974 is generally accepted as the first. Martin Moran reported completing a new west-ridge route on 1 June 2000, involving a serac-exposed approach, rock pitches and a corniced snow ridge. Jason Thompson adds a firsthand account of a new southwest-face line with Anne Gilbert Chase and Chantel Astorga after an earlier attempt was disrupted by storms. Trekking to the foot of the mountain from Badrinath is a different undertaking from the technical summit expedition.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Dinding utara dari Gletser Satopanth (riwayat pendakian 1974)

Sangat teknis & berbahaya — dinding/punggung curam, jarang berhasil

A historical route from the Satopanth Glacier onto the north face. After an unsuccessful west-ridge attempt, S. P. Chamoli’s expedition reached the summit on 3 June 1974 using three camps above base camp. This is generally accepted as the first ascent; the 1961 claim from the same side remains disputed climbing history.

Source

Punggungan barat melalui pendekatan Panpatia

D+/TD-; batu hingga IV+; mixed Scottish II–III (laporan 2000)

Martin Moran’s route approaches from the Panpatia side and gains the west ridge through serac-exposed terrain and rock pinnacles. The team fixed 200 m of rope on the lower section, then continued in alpine style to the corniced summit ridge. The summit was reached on 1 June 2000; grades and conditions describe that expedition.

Source

Trek Neelkanth Base Camp dari Badrinath

Kanchan Naithani’s guide video introduces the journey to Neelkanth Base Camp from Badrinath. Its destination is the foot of the mountain; this source is not used to assign a time estimate, distance or summit-expedition grade.

Source

Climbing Experiences

This collection distinguishes base-camp trekking and views from Badrinath from technical climbing on Nilkantha. Martin Moran’s firsthand account covers the west ridge, while Jason Thompson describes a storm-disrupted attempt and a new southwest-face line. Together they provide context on serac exposure, acclimatization, bivouacs and decisions during descent.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.