GUNUNG · Bolivia

Nevado Sajama

Information

Elevation: 6.542 m
Country: Bolivia (BO)
Location / Range: Cordillera Occidental, Andes — Taman Nasional Sajama
Mountain type: Volcano
Volcanic?: Yes — volcano
Coordinates: -18.1081, -68.8831
Difficulty: Berat (alpine bersalju/glasier, PD–AD)
Best Season: Mei–September (musim kemarau Altiplano)
Permits & Rules: Registrasi & tiket masuk Taman Nasional Sajama; pemandu lokal sangat dianjurkan
Hazards: Ketinggian ekstrem (>6.000 m) & risiko AMS, glasier bercrevasse, dingin & angin Altiplano yang menusuk

Description

Nevado Sajama (6,542 m) is the highest mountain in Bolivia, a dormant stratovolcano that rises in isolation above the Altiplano within Sajama National Park, Oruro Department, near the Chilean border. Its summit carries a permanent ice cap, and its slopes hold queñua (Polylepis) woodlands often cited among the highest forests on Earth. For climbers, Sajama demands serious acclimatization: the normal route follows the northwest ridge across moraine and then snow and ice, requiring crampons and rope, and is typically done over 4–5 days from La Paz. Its altitude, remoteness, and cold make it one of the most memorable — and demanding — 6,000-metre peaks in South America.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Cara Barat + Punggungan Barat Laut (West Face & Northwest Ridge)

Berat (teknis, es & campuran)

+1900 m Variasi (beberapa hari)

Variasi lebih teknis yang menggabungkan pendakian cara barat (west face) dengan punggungan barat laut, terdokumentasi dalam laporan American Alpine Club. Menuntut keterampilan es dan mixed climbing di ketinggian ekstrem; hanya untuk pendaki alpine berpengalaman.

Ruta Normal — Punggungan Barat Laut (Northwest Ridge)

Sedang–berat (alpine PD/AD, ~50°)

+1900 m 4–5 hari (dari La Paz)

Rute termudah sekaligus terpopuler ke puncak. Dari Desa Sajama (~4.220 m) menuju base camp (~4.600 m), lalu naik lewat batu dan moraine ke high camp di punggungan (~5.500 m). Summit day dimulai dini hari (sekitar pukul 01.00) di garis salju dengan crampon dan tali—melewati punggungan, satu pitch dinding campuran (mixed), lalu medan salju hingga puncak. Butuh aklimatisasi matang dan pemandu.

Route Segments

1

Desa Sajama → Base Camp

⏱ 3–4 jam 4.600 mdpl

Jalur setapak landai; bagasi kerap diangkut mula (bagal).
2

Base Camp → High Camp

⏱ 4–5 jam 5.500 mdpl

Naik batu dan moraine ke punggungan dekat menara batu, pemandangan Altiplano.
3

High Camp → Puncak (6.542 m) → turun

6.542 mdpl

Berangkat dini hari; garis salju, punggungan, pitch dinding campuran, lalu medan salju ke puncak.

Climbing Experiences

Nevado Sajama (6,542 m), the roof of Bolivia in Sajama National Park — a 4–5 day alpine climb from La Paz via base camp (~4,600 m) and high camp (~5,500 m). Trip reports stress long acclimatization, snow and ice terrain needing crampons and rope, and the cold pre-dawn summit push.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.