GUNUNG · Peru
Nevado Pisco
Source—
- Feels like
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- Humidity
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- Wind
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Source: Open-Meteo
Information
- Elevation
- 5.752 m
- Country
- Peru (PE)
- Location / Range
- Cordillera Blanca, Andes (masif Huandoy)
- Mountain type
- Puncak salju/glasier (non-vulkanik, orogenik)
- Volcanic?
- No (non-volcanic)
- Coordinates
- -9.0118, -77.6311
- Difficulty
- Berat — mountaineering glasier (kelas alpine PD), butuh crampon, kapak es, dan tali
- Best Season
- Mei–Agustus (musim kemarau Andes; cuaca paling stabil)
- Permits & Rules
- Tiket masuk Taman Nasional Huascarán (SERNANP). Umumnya didaki dari Huaraz dengan pemandu/agen lokal; pendakian mandiri diizinkan bagi yang berpengalaman glasier.
- Hazards
- Crevasse dan serac di glasier, dinding es curam (~50–60°) mendekati puncak, ketinggian dan risiko AMS, cuaca yang berubah cepat, serta moraine longgar di jalur pendekatan.
Description
Nevado Pisco (west summit/Pisco Oeste 5,752 m; east summit/Pisco Este 5,760 m) is a snow peak in the Cordillera Blanca, part of the Huandoy massif inside Huascarán National Park, Ancash, Peru—about 60 km north of Huaraz. Nicknamed the "Balcony of the Cordillera Blanca" for its panorama of Huascarán, Alpamayo, Artesonraju, Chopicalqui and the four Huandoy summits. It was first climbed on 12 July 1951 by a French team (C. & G. Kogan, R. Leininger, M. Lenoir). Pisco is one of the most popular alpine peaks in the Andes and a favourite acclimatisation objective before higher mountains: its normal route is not highly technical (PD) but still requires glacier travel, and glacial retreat in recent years has exposed a steep ice wall near the top. Climbs typically take 3–4 days from Huaraz via the Llanganuco valley, a base camp around 4,665 m, and a midnight summit push.
Gallery
Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.
Routes
Ruta Normal (Suroeste, via Refugio Pisco)
PD (Alpine) — glasier, salju/es hingga ~50–60° dekat puncakThe standard and most popular route. From Huaraz, drive to Cebollapampa/Llanganuco, hike ~3 hours to base camp (Refugio Pisco ~4,665 m), then move up to a moraine camp at the glacier's edge. Summit day starts around midnight: cross moraine and glacier (crampons, ice axe, rope) to the saddle, then increasingly steep snow/ice—with a steep ice wall near the top from glacial retreat—to the 5,752 m west summit. Requires basic glacier skills; commonly used as an acclimatisation objective.
Route Segments
- 1
Cebollapampa (Llanganuco) → Refugio/Base Camp Pisco
Pendekatan menanjak; barang sering diangkut keledai.
- 2
Base Camp → Kemah Moraine (tepi glasier)
Menaiki punggungan moraine longgar ke tepi glasier.
- 3
Kemah Moraine → Puncak Barat (Pisco Oeste)
Penyeberangan glasier bercrevasse, sadel, lalu tanjakan es/salju makin curam ke puncak.
Climbing Experiences
Nevado Pisco is usually climbed over 3–4 days from Huaraz: an approach via the Llanganuco valley to base camp (Refugio Pisco ~4,665 m), then a midnight summit push across moraine and glacier to the west summit (5,752 m). Climbers highlight the outstanding Cordillera Blanca panorama from the top, but also the glacier crossing, the steep ice wall near the summit from glacial retreat, and the demands of high-altitude acclimatisation.
References
The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.