GUNUNG · Spanyol

Naranjo de Bulnes

Picu Urriellu (Asturian) / Naranjo de Bulnes (Español)

Information

Elevation: 2.519 m
Country: Spanyol (ES)
Location / Range: Picos de Europa (Central Massif), Asturias, Spain — Picos de Europa National Park
Mountain type: Non-volcanic karst limestone monolith/tower; sheer walls about 550 m high on all sides; an icon of European rock climbing
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 43.1994, -4.8436
Difficulty: Very hard — the normal route via the South Face is a class IV–V (French grade) rock climb; all routes require full climbing equipment; not a mountain for ordinary hikers
Best Season: June–September; Picos de Europa weather is unsettled with frequent fog/rain; the wall is often wet
Permits & Rules: No climbing permit; the access route enters Picos de Europa National Park (entrance via Caín or Sotres); accommodation at the Refugio Delgado Úbeda (1,960 m, at the foot of the wall) requires a reservation
Hazards: Wet, slippery limestone, rockfall, fast-changing weather and thick fog in the Picos de Europa, remoteness (difficult rescue), sharp limestone flakes; there is no easy route to the summit

Description

The Naranjo de Bulnes, or Picu Urriellu in Asturian, is a limestone tower of 2,519 m in the heart of the Central Massif of the Picos de Europa, in Asturias, Spain. Though not as high as Europe's great peaks, its striking vertical walls — around 500–550 m on the west side — make it one of Spain's most revered rock-climbing icons and a symbol of the birth of the country's modern mountaineering. Its summit cannot be reached on foot: the only way up is to climb. Its first ascent was made on 5 August 1904 by Pedro Pidal (Marquess of Villaviciosa) together with a local shepherd, Gregorio Pérez, 'El Cainejo', by the north face (now called the Vía Pidal). Since then the wall has been a stage for the history of Spanish climbing — from the classic Rabadá–Navarro route on the west face (1962) to the extreme 'Orbayu' line by Iker and Eneko Pou (2009). Around 70 routes now cross the tower; only a few are relatively easy, and the rest are long, hard and exposed. Ascents are based at the Refugio de Urriellu at its foot, reached on foot from Bulnes or Pandébano.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Cara Sur (dinding selatan) — Vía Normal

Panjat tebing multi-pitch ~kelas IV–V (UIAA); wajib tali, harness, helm, dan kemampuan rappel — bukan rute jalan kaki

1–2 hari (approach dari Bulnes/Pandébano 3–4 jam ke Refugio de Urriellu; pemanjatan dinding ±5–8 jam PP)

The most frequently used line to the summit. The approach begins from Bulnes or Pandébano to the Refugio de Urriellu (1,960 m) at the foot of the wall, usually with an overnight stay. From the refuge, climbers ascend the south face (Cara Sur) over several limestone pitches graded around IV–V, with some fixed anchors and markers. Descent is by abseil down the same line. Although called the 'normal' route, it still demands multi-pitch climbing experience, rope management, and vigilance against the fast-changing Picos de Europa weather.

Source

Trekking Vega de Urriellu — pandang menara dari kaki (non-teknis)

Mudah–menengah; jalur setapak bermarkah tanpa peralatan teknis (bukan mendaki puncak, hanya sampai kaki dinding)

Setengah–satu hari (approach dari Bulnes atau Pandébano; ±3–5 jam PP ke Vega de Urriellu)

For non-climbing visitors who want to see the Naranjo de Bulnes up close without ascending it. Trekking routes from Bulnes or from Pandébano to the Vega de Urriellu meadow give a direct, base-level view of this iconic limestone tower. The route crosses the alpine landscape of the Picos de Europa and ends near the Refugio de Urriellu; many visitors are satisfied stopping here to take in its vertical walls.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Naranjo de Bulnes (Picu Urriellu, 2,519 m) is not a mountain you walk up — it is a limestone tower whose summit is reached only by rock climbing. The accounts below are therefore mostly real climbs: the normal route on the south face (Cara Sur), the historic Directa de los Martínez, and guided ascents. Many climbers overnight at the Refugio de Urriellu (1,960 m) at the base, then climb multi-pitch with rope, harness and helmet, rappelling to descend. The fast-forming fog of the Picos de Europa is a recurring safety theme.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.