GUNUNG · Kanada

Mount Waddington

Information

Elevation: 4.019 m
Country: Kanada (CA)
Location / Range: Coast Mountains, British Columbia
Mountain type: Puncak granit (non-vulkanik)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 51.3734, -125.2633
Difficulty: Sangat sulit (ekspedisi mountaineering serius, teknis)
Best Season: Musim panas (Juni–Agustus)
Hazards: Keterpencilan ekstrem, cuaca tak menentu, gletser bercelah, dan pinakel puncak yang menuntut panjatan batu teknis

Description

Mount Waddington (4,019 m) is the highest peak lying entirely within British Columbia, Canada, and the culminating summit of the Coast Mountains. Its massif is not volcanic but granitic rock of the Coast Plutonic Complex. Owing to its extreme remoteness in the central Coast Range, notoriously unpredictable weather, and a summit pinnacle that demands genuine technical rock climbing, it is regarded as one of the most serious mountaineering objectives in North America and is rarely climbed. The main summit was first reached on 21 July 1936 by Fritz Wiessner and William P. House via the South Face, after many earlier failed attempts.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Bravo Glacier (rute normal ke puncak utama)

Alpine, sangat sulit — gletser bercelah, es curam, panjatan batu di menara puncak

Beberapa hari (pendekatan gletser panjang + crux batu di menara puncak)

The most commonly used route to the main summit today. It combines a long, crevassed glacier travel up the Bravo Glacier, steep snow and ice slopes, and a technical rock crux on the summit tower. Roped travel is mandatory from base camp; glacier crevasses and avalanche exposure are the principal objective hazards.

Source

Wajah Selatan (South Face) — jalur pendakian pertama

Sangat sulit / serius secara teknis

Ekspedisi panjang (pendekatan terpencil + hari puncak teknis)

The historic line of the first ascent of the main summit on 21 July 1936 by Fritz Wiessner and William P. House. Breaking through the granite summit pinnacle that demands technical rock climbing at altitude, this route cemented Waddington's reputation as one of North America's most serious mountaineering objectives. Many earlier attempts failed, including the 1933 tragedy in which a climber fell to his death from the southeast ridge.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Mount Waddington (4,019 m), the highest peak lying entirely in British Columbia, is nicknamed "a PhD in alpinism" by guides: long crevassed glaciers, 50-degree snow, and a 5.7 rock summit tower demanding technical climbing, all in a remote setting with fickle Coast Range weather. Reports range from Fritz Wiessner & Bill House's 1936 alpine-style first ascent to modern new lines — the 2015 Southwest Buttress of the northwest summit and the 2019 first complete traverse — each racing fragile rime ice and narrow weather windows.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.