GUNUNG · Kanada (British Columbia)

Mount Sir Donald

Information

Elevation: 3.284 m
Country: Kanada (British Columbia) (CA)
Location / Range: Pegunungan Selkirk — kawasan Rogers Pass, Glacier National Park, British Columbia
Mountain type: Puncak batuan kuarsit berbentuk 'Matterhorn' (non-vulkanik)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 51.2631, -117.4310
Difficulty: Sulit (alpine rock; rute klasik Northwest Arête sekitar 5.4 dengan pemanjatan panjang dan terekspos)
Best Season: Musim panas saat punggung bebas salju; Parks Canada menyebut biasanya pertengahan–akhir Juli, tetapi kondisi harus diperiksa sebelum berangkat.
Permits & Rules: Wilderness Pass diperlukan untuk berkemah di backcountry. Registrasi keselamatan di Rogers Pass Discovery Centre bersifat sukarela. Periksa pembatasan jalur terkait beruang; ketika berlaku, perjalanan harus dalam kelompok rapat sedikitnya empat orang.
Hazards: Jatuh di punggung terekspos, jatuhan batu, salju/es pada pendekatan dan summit bypass, badai petir, serta kesalahan navigasi dan rappel saat turun. Kondisi anchor tetap harus dinilai oleh pemanjat.

Description

Mount Sir Donald (3,284 m) is a non-volcanic summit in the Selkirk Mountains of Glacier National Park, British Columbia. Its quartzite Northwest Arête, graded around 5.4, features in Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. Parks Canada lists 1,998 m of elevation gain from trailhead to summit; parties can climb from the trailhead or use a bivouac. The official guide emphasizes descent planning, including navigation, anchors, weather, and snow on the summit bypass.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Northwest Arête (Northwest Ridge) — rute klasik

Alpine rock ~5.4, panjang dan sangat terekspos

+1998 m Dapat dilakukan dalam sehari dari trailhead atau dengan bermalam di bivak; waktu bergantung pada kondisi dan efisiensi tim.

Approach along the Sir Donald Trail and Uto–Sir Donald Col to reach the Northwest Ridge. This summit route involves exposed quartzite climbing around 5.4; the 1,998 m gain is measured from trailhead to summit. Descent combines downclimbing and rappelling; use of the summit bypass depends on snow conditions and navigation skills. Consult the official guide before choosing a descent.

Source

Pendekatan via Rogers Pass & Glacier National Park

Pendekatan alpine terjal; dapat bersalju atau berlapis es

Pendekatan ke bivak atau col; durasi bergantung pada tujuan dan kondisi.

Start at the end of Illecillewaet Campground road and follow the Sir Donald Trail into the basin below Vaux Glacier. Access then divides toward the lower bivouac or Uto–Sir Donald Col and the high bivouac. This is an approach, not a hiking route to the summit. Overnight camping requires a Wilderness Pass; check bear-related restrictions before entering.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Five climbers’ videos about Sir Donald are complemented by Julian Lapenna’s written account from summer 2024. Lapenna describes turning back on his first alpine climb, adding a perspective beyond summit success. These are individual trip accounts, not current route-condition updates.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.