GUNUNG · Kanada
Mount Lucania
Source
Photo: source
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Source: Open-Meteo
Information
- Elevation
- 5.240 m
- Country
- Kanada (CA)
- Location / Range
- Pegunungan Saint Elias, Taman Nasional Kluane (Yukon)
- Mountain type
- Gunung (puncak es/gletser non-vulkanik)
- Volcanic?
- No (non-volcanic)
- Coordinates
- 61.0233, -140.4656
- Difficulty
- Sangat berat (puncak es terpencil, butuh dukungan pesawat ski)
- Best Season
- April–Juni (musim semi Yukon, salju stabil sebelum lelehan)
- Permits & Rules
- Berada di Taman Nasional & Cagar Alam Kluane; pendaki wajib registrasi backcountry Parks Canada dan lazim memakai penerbangan glacier (ski-plane) untuk mencapai Walsh Glacier. Akses darat praktis nyaris mustahil.
- Hazards
- Keterpencilan ekstrem tanpa evakuasi cepat; crevasse dan slush di Walsh Glacier (yang pernah menjebak pesawat pada 1937); badai Saint Elias, angin kencang, dan suhu sangat rendah. Punggungan panjang menuju Mount Steele memperpanjang paparan cuaca.
Description
Mount Lucania (5,240 m) is Canada's third-highest peak (and the second-highest lying entirely within Canada), in the Saint Elias Mountains of the Yukon within Kluane National Park. It is famous for its 1937 first ascent by Bradford Washburn and Robert Bates: they used a ski-plane to land on the Walsh Glacier (~2,670 m) — a revolutionary approach then — but the aircraft bogged in slush, forcing the pair to complete the summit and then walk out some 150 miles to Burwash Landing. Lucania remains one of North America's most remote major peaks; modern climbs almost always rely on glacier flights. The first all-woman team summited in 2021 (Pascale Marceau and Eva Capozzola).
Gallery
Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.
Routes
Harmony Ridge (Southeast Ridge)
Alpine es/salju punggungan panjangPunggungan tenggara yang pertama kali didaki pada 5 Mei 1977 oleh Steven dan Craig Gaskill. Menawarkan garis punggungan panjang yang terhubung ke arah Mount Steele, dengan paparan cuaca dan navigasi gletser yang menuntut di lingkungan Saint Elias.
SourceWalsh Glacier — Northwest Ridge (jalur pendakian pertama 1937)
Alpine gletser/salju/es terpencil; butuh dukungan pesawat skiJalur bersejarah yang dirintis Bradford Washburn dan Robert Bates (1937): mendarat dengan pesawat ski di Walsh Glacier (~2.670 m) lalu menapaki lereng dan punggungan es menuju puncak. Karena pesawat terjebak slush, keduanya harus keluar berjalan kaki ~150 mil. Pendekatan modern tetap bergantung pada penerbangan gletser ke Walsh Glacier.
SourceClimbing Experiences
Because of its extreme remoteness in the Yukon, Lucania climbs are rarely documented and generally involve glacier-flight-supported expeditions. Written accounts span from Bradford Washburn's first-person story of the 1937 first ascent (traversing over Mount Steele) to modern reports: Pascale Marceau's winter attempt and the 2021 ski-mountaineering expedition that made the first all-woman summit. Videos add Walsh–Steele–Lucania flyovers, camp life and summit day.
References
The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.