GUNUNG · Kanada / Amerika Serikat (perbatasan BC–Alaska)

Mount Fairweather

Tsalxhaan (Tlingit) / Mount Fairweather

Mount Fairweather — foto pendakian dari Wikimedia Commons.. Photo: source

Information

Elevation: 4.671 m
Country: Kanada / Amerika Serikat (perbatasan BC–Alaska) (CA)
Location / Range: Fairweather Range, Saint Elias Mountains
Mountain type: Non-volcanic mountain with rock and ice terrain
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 58.9065, -137.5266
Difficulty: Remote alpine expedition; glacier and ice on the normal route, more technical climbing on Carpé Ridge.
Best Season: Late April to early June according to Alaska Mountain Guides; departures and summit attempts depend on weather.
Permits & Rules: Check Glacier Bay National Park requirements before departure. NPS limits parties to 12 people and prohibits helicopter landings and airdrops in the park. Confirm the operator’s authorization directly with the park.
Hazards: Storms can delay flights and climbing for days. Crevasses, seracs, avalanches and loose rock threaten the routes; NPS has no high-altitude rescue team, so parties must be self-reliant.

Description

Mount Fairweather is a non-volcanic peak on the Alaska–British Columbia border in the Saint Elias Mountains, close to the Pacific Ocean. This profile uses 4,671 m, the preferred elevation statement in Wikidata; the same entity also lists 4,653 m, while NPS gives 4,663 m. It is British Columbia’s highest summit. Alaska Mountain Guides describes ski-plane access to the normal route on the Grand Plateau Glacier, with acclimatization and weather contingency days. Carpé Ridge is a distinct technical route: Paul Netzband’s AAJ 1994 account describes rock climbing, steep ice and terrain changes since the first ascent. Historical accounts help explain the challenges but do not establish present route conditions.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Ferris Glacier — Grand Plateau — West Ridge (historis)

Ekspedisi gletser, punggungan campuran dan ski

Grant McCormack describes a Canadian approach from Ferris Glacier, bypassing the ridge base before climbing ice, snow and rotten rock to the Grand Plateau. The party skied across the plateau and climbed the West Ridge. Published in 1987, this is historical documentation; its helicopter access is not present-day authorization.

Source

Normal Route — Grand Plateau Glacier / sisi utara

Alpine gletser dan es; bagian atas sekitar 40–50° menurut operator

Program operator 12 hari, termasuk aklimatisasi dan cadangan cuaca

Alaska Mountain Guides accesses the Grand Plateau Glacier by ski plane from Haines, establishes camps and allows time for acclimatization. The route involves crevasse navigation and ice climbing; landing elevation and schedule depend on weather. This is the operator’s expedition plan, not a universal completion time.

Source

Southeast (Carpé) Ridge

Alpine teknis — pemanjatan batu dan es curam

The AAJ 1994 account follows an icefall approach onto the southeast ridge, with exposed rock, ice slopes and upper seracs. The party encountered an avalanche and a storm before reaching the summit. This historical account demonstrates changes from an early moderate-snow description; it does not assess current conditions or guarantee a safe passage.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Four verified videos and two first-hand AAJ accounts document different Fairweather expeditions. Video summaries are limited to titles and creator identities confirmed through oEmbed. Written reports distinguish the Ferris Glacier–West Ridge approach from technical Carpé Ridge and describe weather, hanging ice and turnaround decisions; historical conditions and access must not be assumed to apply today.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.