GUNUNG · Nepal

Mount Everest

सगरमाथा (Sagarmatha) / ཇོ་མོ་གླང་མ (Chomolungma)

Information

Elevation: 8.849 m
Country: Nepal (NP)
Location / Range: Mahalangur Himal, Himalaya
Mountain type: Himalayan orogenic peak (non-volcanic)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 27.9883, 86.9253
Difficulty: Extreme (a mountaineering expedition, altitude above 8,000 m)
Best Season: April–May & September–October
Permits & Rules: Expensive expedition permit from the Nepal government + mandatory guide/sherpa
Hazards: Death zone >8000m, avalanches, Khumbu Icefall, hypoxia, extreme weather

Description

Mount Everest (Sagarmatha in Nepali, Chomolungma in Tibetan) is Earth's highest mountain above sea level at roughly 8,849 metres, on the Nepal–Tibet border within the Mahalangur Himal. It is an orogenic fold peak (not volcanic), first summited by Hillary and Norgay in 1953, and is extremely hazardous due to the 'death zone' above 8,000 m, avalanches, and severe weather.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

North Ridge / Northeast Ridge (Tibet, China)

Mountaineering ketinggian ekstrem; 'steps' batu terbuka dekat puncak, sangat menuntut

Ekspedisi ~6–8 minggu pulang-pergi

Jalur utama dari sisi Tibet (China) dimulai dari North Base Camp, meraih North Col (~7.000 m), lalu menyusuri North Ridge ke Northeast Ridge melewati First, Second, dan Third Step menuju puncak. Rute ini menghindari Khumbu Icefall tetapi memaksa pendaki lebih lama di zona kematian dan sepenuhnya terpapar angin kencang. Second Step — dinding batu nyaris vertikal di sekitar 8.600 m — adalah crux teknisnya dan kini dipasangi tangga tetap.

South Col / Southeast Ridge (Nepal) — jalur normal

Mountaineering ketinggian ekstrem; ada bagian teknis (Khumbu Icefall, Hillary Step), bergantung tali tetap & oksigen

Ekspedisi ~6–9 minggu pulang-pergi dari Kathmandu (termasuk aklimatisasi)

Rute standar dan paling banyak didaki, dirintis Hillary dan Tenzing pada 1953. Naik dari sisi Nepal lewat Base Camp (~5.364 m), menembus Khumbu Icefall, Western Cwm, dan Lhotse Face menuju South Col (~7.900 m), lalu menyusuri Southeast Ridge melewati South Summit dan Hillary Step ke puncak. Bahaya objektif terbesar datang dari Khumbu Icefall yang terus bergerak.

Trek Everest Base Camp (Nepal)

Trek berat; tanpa pendakian teknis, ketinggian hingga ~5.550 m (Kala Patthar)

~12–14 hari pulang-pergi dari Lukla

Jalur trekking non-teknis yang mengikuti pendekatan klasik Khumbu dari Lukla melewati Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, dan Dingboche menuju South Base Camp (~5.364 m); kebanyakan trekker juga naik Kala Patthar (~5.550 m) untuk panorama Everest terbaik. Butuh kebugaran baik dan aklimatisasi cermat, tetapi tanpa keterampilan mountaineering atau oksigen tambahan. Ini salah satu trek ketinggian paling populer di dunia.

Climbing Experiences

Climbing Everest means a weeks-long expedition with staged acclimatisation, crossing the ever-shifting Khumbu Icefall, the Western Cwm and the Lhotse Face up to a chain of high camps, before a summit push in the 'death zone' above 8,000 m. The films below show real summit-day perspectives, the hard work of Sherpa teams, the reliance on fixed ropes and supplemental oxygen, and the more accessible side of Everest: the trek to Everest Base Camp through the Khumbu valley.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.