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GUNUNG · Selandia Baru

Mount Elie de Beaumont

Source
Mount Elie de Beaumont

Photo: source

Information

Elevation
3.109 m
Country
Selandia Baru (NZ)
Location / Range
Southern Alps / Kā Tiritiri o te Moana — Main Divide
Mountain type
Puncak alpine non-vulkanik / Non-volcanic alpine peak
Volcanic?
No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates
-43.4820, 170.3280
Difficulty
Pendakian gletser teknis; Anna Glacier II,2+ (ClimbNZ). / Technical glacier mountaineering; Anna Glacier II,2+ (ClimbNZ).
Best Season
November–Februari pada program Aspiring Guides; kondisi gletser menentukan kelayakan. / November–February in the Aspiring Guides programme; glacier conditions determine feasibility.
Permits & Rules
Tasman Saddle Hut: 14 tempat tidur, tanpa reservasi (siapa cepat dia dapat); bayar di Aoraki/Mount Cook Visitor Centre. / Tasman Saddle Hut: 14 bunks, first come first served without bookings; pay at Aoraki/Mount Cook Visitor Centre.
Hazards
Crevasse, bergschrund, es keras, dan keterlambatan penerbangan akibat cuaca. / Crevasses, bergschrund, hard ice, and weather-related flight delays.

Description

Mount Elie de Beaumont (3,109 m) stands on New Zealand’s Southern Alps Main Divide at the head of the Tasman Glacier. The ascent from Tasman Saddle Hut involves technical glacier travel; Wanaka Mountain Guides highlights large crevasses and a bergschrund whose difficulty changes with conditions. Aspiring Guides offers a five-day programme allowing plans to adapt to the weather. Joel O’Rourke’s account illustrates how ridge ice and disrupted flights can affect even a successful trip. DOC lists Tasman Saddle Hut as first come, first served, so a bunk is not guaranteed.

Routes

Anna Glacier Route

ClimbNZ: II,2+

Ascend Anna Glacier to the Elie–Walter col, then follow the snow ridge to the summit. Crevasses may block access.

Source

Ski Touring — Tasman Saddle

Advanced ski terrain
6–10 jam pulang-pergi / hours return (ClimbNZ)

Traverse beneath Hochstetter Dome into Anna Glacier. Skis are often left on the southwest shoulder; beware Mount Walter ice avalanches.

Source

South East Ridge — Lendenfeld Saddle

ClimbNZ: III,3

A sharp ridge from Lendenfeld Saddle leads to Anna Plateau and the summit. Unsound rock affects route conditions.

Source

Climbing Experiences

These six sources combine two videos, two first-hand trip accounts, and two operator programme descriptions. Alpine Recreation describes a winter ascent with skis left below the summit; Ski Descent reports rope protection on ridge ice and changes to the outbound flight. Their successes reflect conditions on those particular trips, not a guarantee of present conditions.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.

  1. 1 Wikipedia Mount Elie de Beaumont en.wikipedia.org · EN
  2. 2 Wikidata Mount Elie de Beaumont (Q1950452) wikidata.org · EN
  3. 3 Official Site Tasman Saddle Hut doc.govt.nz · EN
  4. 4 Encyclopedia Elie du Beaumont Climb — Wanaka Mountain Guides wanakamountainguides.co.nz · EN
  5. 5 Encyclopedia Mount Elie de Beaumont Ascent — Aspiring Guides aspiringguides.com · EN
  6. 6 Encyclopedia Mt Elie de Beaumont — routes climbnz.org.nz · EN
  7. 7 Blog Elie De Beaumont and Tasman Saddle Hut skidescent.com · EN