GUNUNG · Selandia Baru

Mount Elie de Beaumont

Information

Elevation: 3.109 m
Country: Selandia Baru (NZ)
Location / Range: Main Divide (punggung utama), Pegunungan Alpen Selatan (Kā Tiritiri o te Moana), di kepala Gletser Tasman (Haupapa) — perbatasan Taman Nasional Aoraki/Mount Cook dan Westland Tai Poutini, Pulau Selatan
Mountain type: Puncak es dan batuan alpine (non-vulkanik) setinggi 3.000+ m — sentinel utara Main Divide di Pegunungan Alpen Selatan
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: -43.4820, 170.3280
Difficulty: Mountaineering alpine bersalju & es — secara teknis lebih ringan dari tetangganya Mount Tasman, tetapi menuntut cramponing berkelanjutan, navigasi gletser yang cermat (Anna Glacier penuh crevasse), serta pengalaman glasial. Dianggap salah satu puncak 3.000 m Selandia Baru yang paling estetis sekaligus 'dapat dijangkau' untuk alpinis berpengalaman
Best Season: Musim semi hingga awal musim panas (November–Desember/awal Januari) ketika jembatan salju masih menutup crevasse di Anna Glacier bawah; pada akhir musim panas rute kerap terputus oleh crevasse besar
Permits & Rules: Tidak ada izin khusus untuk pendakian; sampaikan intentions ke DOC Aoraki/Mount Cook. Tasman Saddle Hut (dikelola DOC) perlu pemesanan dan umumnya dicapai dengan helikopter atau ski-plane ke kepala Gletser Tasman
Hazards: Bahaya gletser (crevasse tersembunyi, seracs) terutama di Anna Glacier, cuaca alpine yang berubah cepat dan white-out, es keras dan lereng terjal dekat col Elie–Walter, risiko longsoran salju, serta jarak jauh dari titik evakuasi

Description

Mount Elie de Beaumont (3,109 m) is the sentinel peak at the northern end of the Main Divide of the Southern Alps, standing gracefully above the head of the Tasman Glacier (Haupapa) on the boundary of Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park and Westland Tai Poutini. Named by geologist Julius von Haast in honour of the French geologist Léonce Élie de Beaumont, it offers one of the most aesthetic high-alpine experiences in New Zealand. Technically it is friendlier than its fierce neighbour Mount Tasman, making it a popular objective for alpinists wanting to collect one of the country's few 3,000 m summits — yet it still demands sustained cramponing and careful glacier navigation. The classic base is Tasman Saddle Hut, a historic hut perched above the icefall of the upper Tasman Glacier and usually reached by helicopter or ski-plane from Mount Cook Village. The easiest route, up the Anna Glacier to the col between Mount Walter and Elie de Beaumont, requires good snow conditions and an early start because large crevasses can cut the line off late in the season. From the summit stretches a panorama of glaciers and Southern Alps peaks that makes it one of the region's most beloved ski-mountaineering and climbing trips.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Anna Glacier via Tasman Saddle Hut (rute normal/termudah)

Alpine NZ Grade 1–2 — cramponing berkelanjutan dan navigasi gletser; secara teknis lebih ringan dari Mount Tasman namun tetap butuh pengalaman glasial

±2–4 hari (fly-in ke hut + aklimatisasi + hari puncak ±8–12 jam)

Jalur standar dan termudah menuju puncak. Dari Tasman Saddle Hut (dicapai dengan helikopter atau ski-plane ke kepala Gletser Tasman), pendaki menyusuri Anna Glacier — yang sering dipersulit crevasse — biasanya menjaga jarak dekat dengan Mount Walter, lalu naik ke col antara Mount Walter dan Elie de Beaumont sebelum menapaki lereng puncak. Start dini hari dan kondisi salju yang baik penting karena crevasse besar dapat memutus jalur di akhir musim.

Source

Ski-mountaineering / traverse dari Tasman Saddle

Ski-mountaineering alpine — memerlukan keterampilan ski di medan gletser, navigasi crevasse, dan penilaian longsoran salju

Ekspedisi ±3–6 hari bermarkas di Tasman Saddle Hut

Elie de Beaumont adalah salah satu target ski-mountaineering paling digemari di Alpen Selatan. Bermarkas di Tasman Saddle Hut, pendaki menggabungkan pendakian bersalju dengan turunan ski di névé Gletser Tasman atas, sering merangkai Elie de Beaumont dengan puncak-puncak sekitarnya (Mount Cooper, Mount Walter, Minarets) dalam satu ekspedisi. Menuntut kondisi salju stabil dan jendela cuaca yang baik.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Accounts of climbing Mount Elie de Beaumont describe a 3,000 m alpine journey at the head of the Tasman Glacier: climbers fly in by helicopter or ski-plane to Tasman Saddle Hut, then work up the névé and Anna Glacier to the Elie–Walter col and summit slopes. Being technically friendlier than Mount Tasman, it is a popular ski-mountaineering objective and an 'attainable' 3,000 m peak — yet it still demands crevasse navigation and sustained cramponing. The sources below come from experienced alpinists and operators plus verified climbing/ski videos.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.