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GUNUNG · Turkey

Mount Cilo (Cilo Dağı)

Cilo Dağı / Çiyayê Cîlo

Source
Mount Cilo (Cilo Dağı)

Gletser di bawah puncak Reşko (Uludoruk), massif Cilo, Hakkâri. Photo: source

Information

Elevation
4.135 m
Country
Turkey (TR)
Location / Range
Pegunungan Hakkâri (Cilo-Sat), Taurus Timur (Doğu Toroslar) — distrik Yüksekova, Provinsi Hakkâri, Anatolia tenggara
Mountain type
Massif batu gamping bergletser dengan punggungan bergerigi; puncak tertingginya Reşko (juga disebut Uludoruk atau Gelyaşin) adalah titik tertinggi kedua di Turki
Volcanic?
No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates
37.4857, 44.0042
Difficulty
Berat / teknis (alpine). Menuntut pengalaman pendakian tingkat menengah–lanjut: penyeberangan gletser, tahapan batu, penggunaan tali, serta kondisi fisik prima. Bukan gunung untuk pendaki pemula
Best Season
Musim panas hingga awal musim gugur (kira-kira Juli–September), saat salju musim dingin sudah surut dan gletser lebih stabil untuk dilintasi
Permits & Rules
Berada di Taman Nasional Cilo-Sat (Hakkâri Cilo-Sat Dağları Milli Parkı, ditetapkan 2020). Kawasan ini lama berstatus zona terlarang akibat konflik bersenjata; pendakian baru kembali diizinkan sejak 2002. Praktiknya pendakian dilakukan lewat klub/operator gunung dengan koordinasi setempat, dan status akses dapat berubah sewaktu-waktu
Hazards
Penyeberangan gletser (rekahan/crevasse), batu lepas dan dinding gamping curam hingga vertikal, cuaca pegunungan tinggi yang cepat berubah, jurang dalam (mis. Cehennem Vadisi/'Lembah Neraka'), serta terpencilnya kawasan sehingga evakuasi lambat. Gletsernya juga menyusut cepat sehingga kondisi rute berubah dari tahun ke tahun

Description

Mount Cilo is a glaciated massif in the Hakkâri Mountains of southeastern Anatolia and ranks as Turkey's second-highest mountain after Mount Ararat. Its highest summit is called Reşko — also known as Uludoruk or Gelyaşin — standing at 4,135 m according to Wikipedia; Turkish climbing sources often quote 4,168 m, while the Wikidata entry for the massif lists 4,116 m, so the exact figure still varies between sources. The massif runs for about 30 km and forms the western part of the Cilo-Sat Mountains National Park, established in 2020. Its topography is extremely rugged: pointed summits, jagged ridges, steep to occasionally vertical limestone walls, deep gorges, and several glaciers — among them the Reşko and İz Bırak glaciers — relics of an ancient climate that are now retreating fast under global warming. The massif's second-highest peak, Suppa Durek (Erinç Tepe, 4,116 m), stands just 4 km to the west. For years the area was closed to climbing because of the armed conflict between the PKK and Turkey; only in 2002 was a team of mountaineers again authorised to climb here. Today Cilo is both a serious alpine objective and a nature destination — complete with the nearby Sat glacial lakes — though access still depends on the local security situation.

Routes

Ekspedisi terorganisasi 5 hari / 4 malam (program klub gunung)

Menengah–lanjut — mensyaratkan pengalaman dagcılık level menengah ke atas dan kondisi fisik prima
5 hari / 4 malam

For climbers from outside Hakkâri, the usual way onto Cilo is to join a Turkish mountain-club expedition. The format used by operators such as Summit Turkey runs about five days and four nights: starting from Yüksekova, trekking to the camp area, technical preparation, then the climb to the Reşko summit (4,135 m). The programme explicitly includes camp life, technical climbing, rope descents (rappels), glacier crossings and rock sections — and requires participants with intermediate-to-advanced mountaineering experience and good fitness. The kit list covers mountain boots, gaiters, trekking poles, thermal layers, a technical shell and a down jacket, plus gloves. This guided format also answers the area's access and security questions.

Route Segments

  1. 1

    Hari 1–2: Yüksekova → trek → kemah

    ⏱ 2 hari

    Pendekatan, aklimatisasi, dan persiapan teknis

  2. 2

    Hari 3–4: tirmanış puncak Reşko (4.135 m)

    ⏱ 1–2 hari 4.135 mdpl

    Penyeberangan gletser, tahapan batu, rappel saat turun

  3. 3

    Hari 5: turun & kembali

    ⏱ 1 hari

    Descent dan perjalanan pulang

Source

Rute normal Reşko via Yüksekova → Desa Yeşiltaş

Berat / alpine — penyeberangan gletser dan tahapan batu, butuh pengalaman dan perlengkapan glacier travel
Umumnya 2–3 hari termasuk kemah; hari puncak panjang

The most widely documented approach to Reşko (Uludoruk), the highest summit of the Cilo massif. From Yüksekova, climbers drive towards Yeşiltaş village, then walk up the valley to a camp at the foot of the glacier. Summit day starts before dawn: crossing the Cilo glacier — the section that demands rope, crampons and awareness of crevasses — before the final rock steps to the top. Because the glacier is shrinking fast from year to year, route conditions (snow bridges, the ice margin, the line of ascent) can differ from older footage, so current beta from local mountain clubs matters. The area is remote and lies within a national park; most climbers come with a Turkish club or guide.

Route Segments

  1. 1

    Yüksekova → Desa Yeşiltaş

    ⏱ Berkendara

    Titik awal jalan kaki; desa terakhir sebelum masuk lembah

  2. 2

    Yeşiltaş → area kemah di kaki gletser

    ⏱ Setengah hari–sehari 3.000 mdpl

    Menyusuri lembah dan moraine; kemah didirikan di bawah gletser

  3. 3

    Kemah → gletser Cilo → puncak Reşko (4.135 m)

    ⏱ Hari puncak panjang, mulai dini hari 4.135 mdpl

    Penyeberangan gletser (tali & crampon) lalu tahapan batu ke puncak

Source

Climbing Experiences

Footage from Cilo is almost entirely in Turkish and comes from two different worlds: serious mountaineers crossing the glacier towards the Reşko summit, and visitors who come to see the glaciers, the ice waterfall and the Sat lakes below. The clips below cover the full route from Yeşiltaş village (Yüksekova), expeditions to Turkey's second-highest summit, reports on the millennia-old glaciers now melting, and a trip through Cehennem Vadisi ('Hell Valley'). The common thread: the terrain is rough and remote, and nearly everyone comes with a club or a local guide.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.

  1. 1 Wikipedia Mount Cilo en.wikipedia.org · EN
  2. 2 Wikipedia Cilo Dağı tr.wikipedia.org · TR
  3. 3 Wikidata Mount Cilo (Q1091987) wikidata.org · EN
  4. 4 Encyclopedia Cilo Reşko Dağı — puncak & gletser massif Cilo izbos.com · TR
  5. 5 Media Hakkari'de dağcılar, beyaza bürünen Cilo Dağı'ndaki buzullara tırmandı aa.com.tr · TR