GUNUNG · Italia

Monte Viso

Monviso

Information

Elevation: 3.841 m
Country: Italia (IT)
Location / Range: Cottian Alps — the highest peak in the range
Mountain type: Non-volcanic granite peak (orogenic, Cottian Alps)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 44.6675, 7.0899
Difficulty: PD (Peu Difficile); the southern via normale UIAA II–III; the eastern route (Cresta Est) AD/III–IV for experienced alpinists
Best Season: Mid-July–mid-September (the normal route is snow-free; crampons are usually not needed)
Permits & Rules: No formal permit; the Rifugio Quintino Sella requires an advance reservation in peak season
Hazards: Rockfall on the south face, snow/ice after bad weather even in summer, sudden weather changes, altitude above 3,800 m, the long approach from Pian del Re

Description

Monte Viso (3,841 m), also known as Monviso, is the highest peak of the Cottian Alps and stands on the Italy–France border in Piedmont, Province of Cuneo. Its unmistakable pyramidal silhouette makes it one of the most recognisable summits in the Alps — visible from the Piedmontese plain, the Langhe hills, and even from the peaks of the Mont Blanc massif. The mountain is renowned as the source of the Po River, Italy's longest, which springs at Pian del Re at around 2,020 m on its northwestern slopes. The first ascent was recorded on 30 August 1861 by William Mathews, Frederick Jacomb, Jean-Baptiste Croz, and Michel Croz — which is why the standard south-face route is also called the 'Via Mathews'. With a topographic prominence of 2,062 m, Monviso ranks among the most isolated summits in the Alps.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Via Mathews — Jalur Normal (Wajah Selatan via Rifugio Quintino Sella)

PD (Peu Difficile); UIAA II–III; scrambling granit dengan tanda kuning di sepanjang jalur

16.00 km +1821 m 2 hari (Hari 1: 2–2,5 jam ke Rifugio Sella; Hari 2: 5–7 jam pulang-pergi ke puncak)

The standard route on Monte Viso starts from the Pian del Re car park (2,020 m) at the head of the Valle Po — also the source of the Po River. Day one follows a mule track climbing 620 m over roughly 2.5 hours to Rifugio Quintino Sella (2,640 m), the main hut that must be booked in advance in summer. Day two departs before dawn for Passo delle Sagnette (2,991 m) via a steep path equipped with fixed chains, then descends slightly to Bivacco Andreotti (3,225 m, emergency use only) — where the true mountaineering begins. From the bivouac, yellow paint blazes guide climbers over granite slabs and the remnant glacier to the summit cross on Punta Trieste (3,841 m). Total elevation gain from Pian del Re: 1,821 m.

Route Segments

1

Pian del Re (2020 m) → Lago Fiorenza (2113 m)

⏱ 30 menit 2.113 mdpl

Jalur mule track awal melewati lembah Po hulu; danau kecil Fiorenza di ceruk padang rumput alpine
2

Lago Fiorenza → Rifugio Quintino Sella (2640 m)

⏱ 1,5–2 jam 2.640 mdpl

Menanjak cukup konstan di jalur berbatu; pemandangan langsung ke punggungan timur Monviso; hut menerima tamu dan menyajikan makanan
3

Rifugio Quintino Sella → Passo delle Sagnette (2991 m)

⏱ 1,5–2 jam 2.991 mdpl

Jalur curam dengan rantai pengaman di beberapa titik; salju mungkin menutupi bagian atas di awal musim
4

Passo delle Sagnette → Bivacco Andreotti (3225 m)

⏱ 45 menit 3.225 mdpl

Turun sedikit ke lembah Forciolline, lalu naik ke bivak logam darurat; titik awal scrambiling teknis
5

Bivacco Andreotti → Puncak / Punta Trieste (3841 m)

⏱ 2,5–3 jam 3.841 mdpl

Scrambling granit mengikuti tanda cat kuning dan paku ring; melewati sisa gletser Sella; puncak adalah Punta Trieste dengan salib; pemandangan ke Po dataran rendah dan Pegunungan Alpen sekitarnya

Source

Climbing Experiences

Monte Viso (Monviso) draws climbers from around the world with its striking granite pyramid and reputation as the highest peak in the Cottian Alps. The normal route via the south face from Pian del Re — typically two days with an overnight stop at Rifugio Quintino Sella — combines alpine trekking and rocky scrambling in a way that is challenging yet achievable for skilled non-technical climbers. Video records across multiple languages (Italian, French, German, English) capture the extraordinary panoramas, the granite character of Monviso that is welcoming yet demands constant awareness of weather shifts and rockfall. The East Ridge (Cresta Est) represents the natural next challenge for those seeking a more technical ascent.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.