GUNUNG · Italia

Monte Viso

Monviso

Information

Elevation: 3.841 m
Country: Italia (IT)
Location / Range: Cottian Alps — the highest peak in the range
Mountain type: Non-volcanic granite peak (orogenic, Cottian Alps)
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 44.6675, 7.0899
Difficulty: PD (Peu Difficile); the southern via normale UIAA II–III; the eastern route (Cresta Est) AD/III–IV for experienced alpinists
Best Season: Mid-July–mid-September (the normal route is snow-free; crampons are usually not needed)
Permits & Rules: No formal permit; the Rifugio Quintino Sella requires an advance reservation in peak season
Hazards: Rockfall on the south face, snow/ice after bad weather even in summer, sudden weather changes, altitude above 3,800 m, the long approach from Pian del Re

Description

Monte Viso (Italian: Monviso) rises to 3,841 m as the highest summit of the Cottian Alps, in Piedmont, northwest Italy, close to the French frontier. Its near-symmetrical pyramid, towering roughly 500 m above neighbouring peaks, makes it visible from great distances — across the western Po plain, from the Langhe, even from the spires of Milan Cathedral on clear days. Italians call it the 'Re di Pietra' (King of Stone). At its foot, near Pian del Re, lies the source of the Po, Italy's longest river. The area became a UNESCO transboundary biosphere reserve in 2013, and the Italian flank has formed the Monviso Natural Park since 2016. The first ascent was made in 1861 by the Englishman William Mathews. The standard route is a long alpine climb (F+/PD-) up the south face from the Rifugio Quintino Sella.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Via Mathews — Jalur Normal (Wajah Selatan via Rifugio Quintino Sella)

PD (Peu Difficile); UIAA II–III; scrambling granit dengan tanda kuning di sepanjang jalur

2 hari (Hari 1: 2–2,5 jam ke Rifugio Sella; Hari 2: 5–7 jam pulang-pergi ke puncak)

Rute standar Monte Viso dimulai dari parkiran Pian del Re (2.020 m) di ujung lembah Valle Po — sekaligus sumber Sungai Po. Hari pertama menempuh jalur mule track mendaki 620 m selama sekitar 2,5 jam ke Rifugio Quintino Sella (2.640 m), hut utama yang wajib dipesan di muka musim panas. Hari kedua berangkat sebelum fajar menuju Passo delle Sagnette (2.991 m) lewat jalur curam dengan rantai pengaman, lalu turun sedikit ke Bivacco Andreotti (3.225 m, hanya untuk darurat) — di sinilah bagian alpinisme sesungguhnya dimulai. Dari bivak, tanda cat kuning memandu pendaki melewati lereng granit dan sisa gletser hingga ke puncak (3.841 m). Total beda ketinggian dari Pian del Re: 1.821 m.

Source

Via Normale dal Rifugio Sella (camptocamp)

F+/PD-, batu UIAA II–III

±2 hari (hari puncak ±6 jam dari rifugio + pendekatan 2–3 jam)

Lembar rute camptocamp untuk via normale dari Rifugio Quintino Sella (2.640 m) melewati Passo delle Sagnette dengan tanjakan sekitar 1.200 m menembus couloir, undakan batu, scree, dan punggungan bertanda cat kuning. Umumnya dibelah dua hari dengan bermalam di rifugio (wajib pesan).

Source

Climbing Experiences

Accounts of climbing Monte Viso (Monviso) consistently describe a long, demanding alpine ascent of the 'King of Stone'. Vlogs in several languages (English, French, German, Italian) highlight the via normale from Pian del Re — the source of the Po — past the Rifugio Quintino Sella and Passo delle Sagnette, with easy rock steps (UIAA II–III), couloirs, scree and yellow-painted ridges. Many split the climb over two days with a refuge overnight, some attempt it in a single day, and others take the technical East Ridge. The reward is a sweeping panorama of the Po plain and the western Alps from the iconic pyramid summit.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.