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GUNUNG · Chili

Monte San Valentín

Source
Monte San Valentín

Panorama kawasan San Valentín dari Danau General Carrera; tampak jauh, bukan foto dekat puncak. / Distant panorama of the San Valentín area from Lake General Carrera, not a summit close-up.. Photo: source

Information

Elevation
4.058 m
Country
Chili (CL)
Location / Range
Andes — Lapisan Es Patagonia Utara, Aysén
Mountain type
Puncak ber-es non-vulkanik
Volcanic?
No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates
-46.5950, -73.3458
Difficulty
Ekspedisi alpin serius: perjalanan gletser terpencil; North Spur melibatkan panjat campuran dan es teknis.
Best Season
Ekspedisi dalam sumber berlangsung November–Desember; keberangkatan tetap bergantung pada jendela cuaca.
Hazards
Celah gletser, badai dan visibilitas buruk, longsoran salju basah, serta evakuasi sulit karena keterpencilan.

Description

Monte San Valentín is an ice-covered peak at the northern end of Chile’s Northern Patagonian Icefield. Wikidata lists 4,058 m; other measurements differ, so this figure should not be treated as a uniquely settled survey result. Approaches from Laguna San Rafael or Lago Leones involve lengthy travel. Expedition accounts show how storms, crevasses and remoteness make the ascent serious. The North Spur is a distinct technical climbing line rather than an ordinary trekking variation. In 2020, a team skied the south face with one rappel; a 2025 winter attempt via Lago Leones ended in retreat because of prolonged storms.

Routes

North Spur / Arista Norte

Panjat campuran dan es: M5/6a, WI5 / Mixed and ice climbing

Reached via the Grosse Glacier, this line gains the northeast summit before crossing to the main summit. The 2023 first-ascent team descended the same line. It is a technical alpine route exposed to avalanches, not a hiking trail.

Source

Pendekatan barat melalui Laguna San Rafael

Ekspedisi gletser terpencil / Remote glacier expedition

The 1999 account follows an approach from Laguna San Rafael onto the icefield before the summit climb. Load hauling and crevasses slowed progress. This is a historical route record; present glacier conditions require reassessment.

Source

Pendekatan tenggara melalui Lago Leones

Ekspedisi salju dan es / Snow and ice expedition

The 2025 winter-attempt account details load hauling through Valle Leones, a boat crossing of Lago Leones and establishment of Heimp camp before continuing through forest and rocky terrain. Prolonged storms stopped the team before the summit. This source documents the approach, not a complete summit line or a guaranteed schedule.

Source

Climbing Experiences

These six sources cover summit ascents, the North Spur first ascent, a south-face ski descent and abandoned attempts. The 2025 winter account adds detail on the Lago Leones approach and the decision to retreat. Past expedition schedules provide historical context rather than present-day trip estimates.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.

  1. 1 Wikipedia Monte San Valentín en.wikipedia.org · EN
  2. 2 Wikidata Monte San Valentín (Q2092228) wikidata.org · EN
  3. 3 Encyclopedia Monte San Valentín, North Spur publications.americanalpineclub.org · EN
  4. 4 Encyclopedia Cerro San Valentin, Ascent, and Hielo Patagonico Norte, Traverse publications.americanalpineclub.org · EN
  5. 5 Encyclopedia Monte San Valentín, Ski Descent Of South Face publications.americanalpineclub.org · EN
  6. 6 Blog Expedición Invernal al Monte San Valentín volkanica.cl · ES