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GUNUNG · Chili

Monte San Valentín

Source
Monte San Valentín

Photo: source

Information

Elevation
4.058 m
Country
Chili (CL)
Location / Range
Ujung utara Es Patagonia Utara (Campo de Hielo Norte), Aysén
Mountain type
Puncak ber-es non-vulkanik
Volcanic?
No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates
-46.5950, -73.3458
Difficulty
Menantang (rute normal tidak rumit secara teknis, tetapi keterpencilan & cuaca ekstrem)
Best Season
Musim panas belahan selatan (Desember–Februari)
Hazards
Cuaca Patagonia yang brutal dan cepat berubah, penyeberangan lapisan es panjang dan bercelah, keterpencilan logistik yang tinggi

Description

Monte San Valentín (about 4,058 m), also known as Monte San Clemente, is the highest mountain in Chilean Patagonia and the highest point south of latitude 37°S outside Antarctica. This ice-clad peak rises at the northern end of the Northern Patagonian Icefield (Campo de Hielo Norte) within Laguna San Rafael National Park, Aysén Region. Although its normal route is not technically complex, the remoteness and ferocious Patagonian weather make it an extremely challenging mountain requiring careful preparation and logistics. The first ascent was recorded in 1952 by members of the Club Andino Bariloche.

Routes

Rute Normal (penyeberangan lapisan es)

Tidak rumit secara teknis, tetapi sangat berat karena keterpencilan & cuaca
Ekspedisi panjang (pendekatan lapisan es beberapa hari + upaya puncak)

The usual line to the summit. The approach can be made from Laguna San Rafael on the west—crossing the glacier entirely from the coast up to the icefield plateau, which is the hardest and longest part—or from Lago Leones to the southeast. The summit slopes are not technically complex, but the remoteness and ferocious Patagonian weather make the climb very serious; success depends heavily on logistics and a good weather window.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Monte San Valentín (~4,058 m) is regarded as a Himalaya-grade objective in Patagonia: rarely climbed in summer and with only two documented winter ascents. Climbers stress that the crux is not the normal route's technical difficulty but the long approach from near sea level through one of the wettest places on Earth, the crevassed Northern Patagonian Icefield, and winds that can pin a team down for days. Hard lines such as the North Spur (M5/6a, WI5) and a South Face ski descent only succeed inside a rare stable weather window.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.

  1. 1 Wikipedia Monte San Valentín en.wikipedia.org · EN
  2. 2 Wikidata Monte San Valentín (Q2092228) wikidata.org · EN