GUNUNG · Italia

Monte Pelmo

Pelmo — dijuluki "Caregon del Padreterno" (Singgasana Sang Pencipta)

Information

Elevation: 3.168 m
Country: Italia (IT)
Location / Range: Dolomiti di Zoldo, provinsi Belluno, Veneto — bagian Dolomites (Warisan Dunia UNESCO)
Mountain type: Masif dolomit masif berbentuk kursi berlengan di Dolomiti di Zoldo
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 46.4202, 12.1332
Difficulty: Sulit — via normale bukan teknis berat tapi sangat terpapar (Cengia di Ball sepanjang ±1 km, Passo del Gatto grade II+); butuh pengalaman alpine, kepala dingin di ketinggian, dan tali pengaman
Best Season: Pertengahan Juni–September saat cengia bebas salju/es
Permits & Rules: Tidak perlu izin khusus; bermalam di Rifugio Venezia sangat disarankan. Disarankan memakai pemandu alpine bagi yang kurang berpengalaman
Hazards: Cengia di Ball yang sangat sempit dan terpapar (1 m hingga 50 cm), risiko jatuh fatal, batu lepas, perubahan cuaca cepat, dan sisa salju/es di awal musim

Description

Monte Pelmo (3,168 m) is one of the most iconic three-thousanders in the Dolomites, standing in the Dolomiti di Zoldo of Belluno province, Veneto. Its huge armchair-like shape earned the nickname "Caregon del Padreterno" — the Almighty's throne — with the north wall as the backrest and the east and south ridges as its armrests. Pelmo holds a special place in mountaineering history: it was the first major Dolomite peak ever climbed, by the Irish naturalist John Ball in 1857 via the vertiginous rock ledge that now bears his name, the Cengia di Ball. The modern normal route starts from Rifugio Venezia (1,946 m) and follows the narrow, nearly one-kilometre ledge, whose hardest passage is the Passo del Gatto (grade II+), climbing about 1,200 m to the summit. Not extremely technical, but its exposure demands alpine experience, a cool head and usually a rope.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Giro del Pelmo (lingkar dasar masif)

Trekking menengah — tidak menuju puncak

±5–6 jam, jalur lingkar sekitar kaki gunung

Alternatif bagi yang tidak menyerang puncak: jalur lingkar mengelilingi dasar masif Pelmo yang menampilkan bentuk "kursi" ikonik dari berbagai sudut, cocok sebagai trekking panorama sehari. Berpangkal dari kawasan rifugio/Passo Staulanza.

Source

Via Normale — Cengia di Ball dari Rifugio Venezia

Alpine PD, sangat terpapar — Passo del Gatto grade II+

±7–9 jam PP dari Rifugio Venezia (naik ±1.200 m); umumnya 2 hari dengan bermalam di rifugio

Rute pendakian utama Pelmo. Dari Rifugio Venezia (1.946 m) jalur menuju kaki dinding lalu menyusuri Cengia di Ball, teras batu sempit hampir sepanjang satu kilometer (lebar 1 m hingga 50 cm) yang sangat terpapar, dengan bagian tersulit Passo del Gatto (II+). Total naik sekitar 1.200 m ke puncak 3.168 m. Tidak teknis berat namun menuntut kepala dingin, pengalaman alpine, dan tali; disarankan start dini dari rifugio.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Experiences on Monte Pelmo almost always centre on the normal route across the Cengia di Ball from Rifugio Venezia — a narrow, very exposed rock ledge with the famous Passo del Gatto. Climbers' videos show the hut overnight, the pre-dawn start, the tense ledge traverse, and Dolomiti Zoldane panoramas from the 3,168 m summit. Much of the footage is Italian, by local climbers and guides; several pair Pelmo with neighbouring Monte Civetta, underlining its reputation as one of the most elegant yet exposed three-thousanders in the Dolomites.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.