GUNUNG · Italia/Austria

Monte Coglians

Monte Coglians / Hohe Warte

Information

Elevation: 2.780 m
Country: Italia/Austria (IT)
Location / Range: Alpi Carniche (Alpen Carnic), perbatasan Italia (Friuli-Venezia Giulia) – Austria (Carinthia), sebelah barat Passo di Monte Croce Carnico
Mountain type: Puncak batuan gamping (non-vulkanik) — puncak tertinggi Alpen Carnic & wilayah Friuli-Venezia Giulia
Volcanic?: No (non-volcanic)
Coordinates: 46.6072, 12.8825
Difficulty: Menengah–sulit (EE hingga ferrata): via normale dari Rifugio Marinelli menuntut pijakan mantap di medan berbatu curam; sisi utara berupa via ferrata 'Weg der 26er'
Best Season: Pertengahan Juni–September (bebas salju); di luar musim bisa ber-es dan bersalju di bagian atas
Permits & Rules: Tidak ada izin khusus; kawasan lintas batas IT/AT, patuhi aturan kawasan gunung
Hazards: Medan berbatu/scree curam dan terbuka, bagian ekspos di dekat puncak, jalur ferrata butuh set via ferrata, serta cuaca pegunungan yang cepat berubah dan badai petir sore

Description

Monte Coglians (2,780 m), known in German as Hohe Warte, is the highest peak of the Carnic Alps and the highest point of Italy's Friuli-Venezia Giulia region. This limestone mountain sits right on the Italy–Austria (Carinthia) border, west of the Monte Croce Carnico pass. Its classic climbing base is the Rifugio Giovanni e Olinto Marinelli — one of the oldest refuges in the Carnic Alps — reached by trail from Collina/Rifugio Tolazzi. From the refuge, the normal route (a CAI path) climbs through rocky, scree-covered slopes to the summit cone, which offers a broad panorama toward the Sesto Dolomites, the Grossglockner and the Friuli plain. The northern (Austrian) side offers the historic 'Weg der 26er' via ferrata, which requires proper equipment and experience. A three-refuge loop (Tolazzi–Lambertenghi–Marinelli) is often combined with the ascent for a ridge traverse.

Gallery

Foto bersumber dari Wikimedia Commons — klik untuk memperbesar & lihat sumbernya.

Routes

Via ferrata 'Weg der 26er' (sisi utara Austria)

Via ferrata (menengah–sulit): butuh peralatan ferrata, pengalaman, dan kepala dingin di medan ekspos

1 hari (pendakian teknis, butuh set via ferrata)

A historic route on the northern (Carinthia, Austria) side that climbs the wall to the summit via the 'Weg der 26er' via ferrata. It requires a via ferrata set, experience and a cool head on vertical, exposed terrain; it is often combined with a descent by the Italian normal route to form a cross-border traverse.

Source

Via normale (sentiero CAI) dari Rifugio Marinelli

EE (escursionisti esperti): jalur berbatu curam & terbuka, sebagian ekspos dekat puncak

1–2 hari (±2,5–3,5 jam naik dari rifugio; pendekatan dari Collina/Tolazzi menambah waktu)

The classic Italian-side route. From the Rifugio Giovanni e Olinto Marinelli — reached by trail from Collina/Rifugio Tolazzi — a CAI path climbs through scree slopes and rocky terrain to the 2,780 m summit cone of Monte Coglians. The upper part is open and partly exposed, giving a wide panorama toward the Sesto Dolomites, the Grossglockner and the Friuli plain. Many hikers overnight at the refuge to split the ascent.

Source

Climbing Experiences

Climbing Monte Coglians (2,780 m), the highest peak of the Carnic Alps and of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, is usually done via the normal route (a CAI path) from Rifugio Marinelli up rocky slopes, or via the 'Weg der 26er' via ferrata on the northern Austrian side. Climbers' footage highlights the refuge approach (Tolazzi–Lambertenghi–Marinelli), steep scree terrain, exposed sections near the top, and a wide panorama toward the Dolomites and the Grossglockner.

References

The summary above is compiled from the following sources. Click to explore them yourself.